Thursday, November 18, 2010

Yogu-La!

Blueberry frozen yogurt with the fruit worksThe frozen yogurt phenomena surged from California and hit the shores of Shanghai, receding and leaving a few shops behind. Yogu-la is a new frozen yogurt shop in the affluent Xintiandi boasting Italian roots and fresh fruit toppings reminiscent of those you would find at Pinkberry minus the Captain Crunch cereal. Why not? Xintiandi is an ideal place to wander around browsing shops and sitting outside during warm days. It has proved itself a location that several love to photograph. The walk through the re-created Shanghainese architecture would only be heightened with the accompaniment of a refreshing, sweet treat. Yogu-la is a word that the Chinese would use for the yogurt, ending it with "-la" because it sounds all so cute and endearing. Chinese love using "la" at the end of statements. It just makes everything sound a lot better.

There are six yogurt machines that were serving different flavors of yogurt: original, chocolate, passion fruit, mango, blueberry. The menu rotates depending on what batch is being made that day, but the full menu of the flavors are above the yogurt dispensers so if you miss something there is a sign that reminds you what you have to come back to. I still must try the pistachio, which is hopefully not too sweet. The blueberry was the best out of the flavored yogurts. The passion fruit flavor could have been stronger and not as tart, but it was promising. The original was also really nice, a bit on the tart side and not too sugary. The fruit toppings were all very fresh and not under-ripe adding a fresh texture to the creamy yogurt. There was kiwi, dragon fruit, mango, watermelon, cantaloupe, and papaya to choose from. At the time of tasting, the manager was present and readily welcomed all constructive criticisms to make the Italian-style frozen yogurt all the better. The prices are completely reasonable for the large serving of frozen yogurt you get - 25RMB for a regular cup and 45RMB for the big cup. The fall opening of Yogu-La baffled me as winters come too quickly in Shanghai offering less incentive to seek out frozen yogurt.

Yogu-la front entrance at Xintiandi Yogu-la frozen yogurt machines

Yogu-La. Xintiandi, Shanghai, People's Republic of China

Dim Sum Brunch at Ye Shanghai

Ye Shanghai dining setYe Shanghai ground floor dining roomYe Shanghai has this great weekend brunch deal for 98RMB all-you-can eat inclusive of tea. If you pay a little more, you can get an entree like roast duck. A little more RMB means that you can also get free-flow sparkling wine. That is not bad for a brunch deal, especially considering that the classy restaurant is located in Xintiandi, known for its more up-market establishments. Ye Shanghai takes a modern look at classic dim sum selections from both Shanghainese and Hong Kongese cuisine. The dining room reflects this philosophy and during brunch, it is well-lit and cozy without being so pretentious. Though, it is quite unfortunate to see that the patrons are mostly waiguoren instead of Chinese. That should not be a deterrent, however. The dim sum menu has an assortment of dishes perfect for sharing (ideally between 2 people as each order has two items). As it is a free-flow feeding frenzy, the parade of plates never has to stop. The server may look a bit perturbed by the length of the initial order of food, or she is balking at the amount of food seemingly small people can consume.

Ye Shanghai drunken chicken Ye Shanghai sliced pork terrine with Zhejiang black vinegar
Ye Shanghai pan-fried turnip cake Ye Shanghai sliced pork with garlic and chili
Barbecue pork puffs and stir-fried sliced beef with scallions served with pancakes Ye Shanghai Spring onion cakes

About every dish was ordered off the menu aside from the rice and noodle dishes (the dan dan mian (traditional Sichuan noodles) were a little on the oily and runny side). This includes the drunken chicken, sliced pork terrine with Zhejiang black vinegar, pan-fried turnip cake, sliced pork with garlic and chili, barbecue pork puffs, stir-fried beef with scallions and pancakes, spring onion cakes, steamed shrimp dumplings in XO chili sauce, smoked fish, steamed spare ribs, wheat gluten with mushroom and bamboo shoots, beancurd skin roll with mushroom, and wontons...to name a few. The spare ribs came out with pumpkin and was flavorless. The terrine was nothing special either. Overall, everything else was really lovely. If you do not like one item, someone at your table is bound to eat it. If you do like something, there is nothing stopping you from ordering more.

Ye Shanghai pork xiaolongbao Ye Shanghai pork xiaolongbao inside

Ahhh...xiaolongbao. Mornings in Shanghai feel even more complete with an order of xiaolongbao. The hot broth supporting a light, meaty filling all enveloped by a thin wrapper translates to a savory explosion in your mouth. The xiaolongbao at Ye Shanghai was nothing impressive. The wrapper was not of an extraordinary thinness aside from the bottom as it did often break when being lifted from the steamer releasing its precious contents. The wrapper should be of even thickness throughout the entire dumpling, even taking the little folds into consideration. The broth was not very salty, but not savory either. And the pork itself did not stand out. No matter though. Still being able to get a xiaolongbao fix is enough to start the day.

Glutinous rice ball with peanut paste Ye Shanghai mango pudding Ye Shanghai glutinous dumpling encased with papaya and coconut

Out of the desserts, I enjoyed the glutinous rice ball with peanut paste the most. The peanut paste was more of a pulverized peanut powder that was soft and melted slowly on your tongue. The mango pudding had a surprise of actual pieces of mango hidden within the pudding.

Ye Shanghai brunch is great for your wallet for what you get and has a classy dining area that will readily impress your dining partners. It is highly advisable to reserve in advance. The brunches are very popular and tables do get booked quickly.

Ye Shanghai. Xintiandi North Block, Lane 181 Taicang Lu (near Madang Lu), Shanghai, People's Republic of China. 太仓路181号 (近马当路) 新天地北里

Monday, November 15, 2010

KFC Egg Custard Tart

KFC custard egg tart KFC custard egg tart one bite in

KFC is a popular fast-food chain that has penetrated the Asian markets for its delicious fried chicken. I have heard of Hong Kongese actually requesting boxes of KFC egg tarts brought to them. News of this is kind of a shock considering the egg custard tarts are coming from a fast-food chain and not a specialty bakery. However, someone was kind enough to share a piping hot box (6 in this one, each with its own tart holder) of these delicate KFC tarts saving face of self-imposed shame. The puff pastry on this egg tart is incredibly flaky and you can see the countless layers developed from rolling out a proper puff pastry at the crust of the tart. The egg custard filling had a caramelized top from the baking, but was wonderfully light in the inside being firm and not hard nor gooey. No part of the tart was undercooked or tainted with random bites of dough or runny egg custard. It is sugary enough to tickle your sweet tooth, but not so much to drill a hole in your molars. The best egg custard tarts in Shanghai are said to be at Lillian Cake Shop (Lì Lián Dàn Tà - 莉莲蛋挞), a luxury yet to be indulged.

Lillian Cake Shop. 868 Huaihai Middle Road (near Maoming Road) / 卢湾区淮海中路868号(近茂名南路), Shanghai, People's Republic of China

Merci, Germany, for your chocolate

Merci milk chocolate variety sticksMerci - when associated with chocolate - is supposed to mean the "finest Assortment of European Chocolates with a brand name that literally means thank you, there is no better way of expressing heartfelt gratitude." Merci is actually a brand of French chocolate manufactured by a German company.

Merci Milk Chocolate variety box came with 20 milk chocolate, hazelnut-almond, hazelnut cream, and praline cream sticks lined up in two rows. The cellophane and paper wrapper was easy to open and did not stick to the chocolate. Its simplicity made it elegant and not too fussy. In the hazelnut creme stick, the milk chocolate encased a small bar of light-colored hazelnut creme, which was silky and nutty, but the hazelnut flavor started to dissipate after the next few nibbles. I preferred the hazelnut-almond stick the most with bits of hazelnut and almond in the chocolate. The crunchy texture was complimented by the smooth milk chocolate, though highlighting the chocolate over the nut flavors. The milk chocolate was smooth, creamy, but too sweet in comparison with the others. The praline creme is dryer than the hazelnut creme and the flavor, again, is very subtle with only hints of caramelized sugar. The chocolate is very, very, smooth. This was the overarching characteristic of the chocolate sticks that I noticed. However, I am not really a fan of milk chocolate though, preferring the bitterness of cocoa nibs. Someone get me the Dark Chocolate variety!

Sunday, November 14, 2010

Getting Down to Business in Bali (& Gili T)

Urap Urap at Coral Beach Bungalows 2 in Indonesia, Lombok,Gili TrawanganIndonesia is littered with warungs offering a place to eat and displaying the dishes each specializes in with a large sign or by name. Most of them have typical dishes on their menu, each focusing on either rice (nasi) or noodles (mie). Considering that my hosts in Java took me around to try the special dish at whatever given place, I may have missed out on some of these items. Not eating with a host though has given me the opportunity to try the dishes that other travelers I have encountered have come to loathe due to the seeming lack of variety as the menus are consistent throughout. Research and a curious appetite will address these woes!

Sitting on the beach on Gili Trawangan in front of Coral Beach Bungalows 2, much farther up north of the pier, you have to flip through the menu to get to the Indonesian section, which was much cheaper relative to the Indonesian dishes closer to the village. There was no explanation for what each dish contained. The server said the urap urap was vegetables with coconut and rice. The choice sounded healthy enough not to leave a negatively affect a beach body. The vegetable dish was mostly dry with heaps of shredded coconut in the vegetables. It was still flavorable and looked a lot better than the gado-gado with a peanut sauce dressing covering an assortment of vegetables.

Warung Indonesia on Gili Trawangan - Nasi CampurIn the village of Gili Trawangan away from the beach side, there was only one small restaurant advertised on the main street for Indonesian food coincidentally called Warung Indonesia. The majority of places along the main drag focused more on the present Western clientele. The only exception was the market area where street carts set up in the evening to cook up local fare at a price substantially cheaper than an iced tea at a restaurant. I recalled a recommendation to order nasi campur, which I opted for. It is a mixed plate of vegetables, meats, and other items surrounding a mound of rice all salty, savory, slightly bitter, slightly sour. You get a little bit of everything, including tempe! Nasi campur is a great choice if you are having trouble deciding exactly what to eat. The combination is satisfying and it tastes delicious as well.

Indonesia,Bali,Ubud Warung Ijolumut - Mie Goreng with eggBack in Ubud, after all that rice, it was time to indulge in some noodles. Warung Ijolumut had a more environmental and spiritually-geared environment (and free wifi) compared to other warungs toting local food with flags bearing Chinese characters and bright green walls. This warung costs slightly more than others in the area, but you pay for other amenities that are found at that location. The mie goreng looked like instant ramen noodles tossed with vegetables and served with an egg on top. The noodles were nothing special and tasted like they were pan-fried in soy sauce with a hint of chili. It is your standard fried noodle dish, but is good for sensitive stomachs because it is not spicy, heavy or too oily.

Fish spread for 2 at Warung Mina Ubud, Bali, IndonesiaJust off the main road in Ubud is Warung Mina, specializing in seafood dishes. Ubud is at least an hour away from the coast, but no matter. Being a large group sitting crowded in one of the dining huts, we opted for a couple of the specialty fish platters. There was one grilled fish, a fried fish, tempe, raw sambal, sambal, a sort of fish cake, other smaller fish, kang kong greens, and other raw vegetables. The fried fish was cooked in coconut oil while the grilled fish had a lighter taste. Personally, I prefer the grilled fish since the coconut oil does not bode well with me for some reason. With the large platter, each bite can carry a different combination of items such as tempe with grilled fish and the acidic sambal. It gives you the opportunity to test out different combinations of flavors making the consumption of this place a great adventure that rapidly ends as your fellow diners are demolishing the plate at a similar, energetic rate.

Indonesia,Bali,Ubud Mangga Madu - Soto AyamThe bule crew in Ubud was raving about the soto ayam at Mangga Madu's. Soto ayam is a soup with chicken and some glass noodles or basically an Indonesian version of chicken noodle soup. It is not intended to be a main course (at least at this establishment) so the portion is small. The soup is not spicy at all, but the server will bring sambal if you so desire. The broth is flavorful and lines your insides with a comforting warmth. The chicken was not anything outstanding though, more serving as a source of protein lending its flavors to the broth. Considering the strong flavors associated with Indonesian cuisine, the soto ayam seemed relatively weak, but is a pleasant break from the traveler's grind.

So there we have it. I finally was able to try some of the items offered on what seemed to be every menu in Indonesia.

Coral Beach Bungalows 2. Gili Trawangan, West Nusa Tenggara, Indonesia
Warung Indonesia. The Village, Gili Trawangan, West Nusa Tenggara, Indonesia.
Warung Ijolumut. Jl. Sugriwa 14X, Ubud, Bali, Indonesia. http://www.ijolumut-ubud.com/
Warung Mina, Ubud, Bali, Indonesia
Mangga Madu. Jl. Gunung Sari No. 1, Ubud, Bali, Indonesia. Tel: (0361) 977334

Naughty Nuri's Pork Barbecue Spare Ribs

The grill at Naughty Nuri's Warung in Ubud, BaliIn Jakarta, while my host was making this extensive list of dishes you have to try that are unique to a city in Indonesia, the rave reviews of the spare ribs at Nuri's stood out the most. It could be that the portion was so generous, one person could barely finish the rack. It could also be that the pork is so tender that it slips right off the bone. Or maybe the sweet sauce slathered on the ribs when they are cooking. Maybe the 70,000Rp price tag could be a deterrant for one Indonesian or a gastronomic investment with high returns. Either way, these ribs must have made a strong impression. After reaching Ubud, I had to stay true to my promise that I would visit Nuri's Warung to taste the prized deliciousness of pork flesh. The location of the restaurant is said to be "20 minutes walking from the center," at least according to the guy at the front desk who takes his motobike everywhere, even to go 20 meters around the corner. It did not look so far on the map, but it was a far trek and the journey seemed even longer since it was raining. If that much pork was supposed to be consumed, the least we could do for ourselves is burn a few calories beforehand. At the entrance of the restaurant, there is a vat of pork spare ribs already brined, seasoned, pre-cooked, or whatever has to be done to get the ribs ready for the grill. Once the order is placed, the ribs are placed immediately on the grill and the aroma swirls through the entire open-air restaurant. You can hear a faint sizzle from the sugars in the sauce caramelizing on your ribs. The ribs are served alone with no frills except for a wedge of lemon. If you want any sides, that will be added to your tab. My host was right. The spare ribs were tender, juicy, falling off the bone, and had a slight caramelization from the grill. Yum. The plate looked huge, but I managed to polish it off easily sparing no shred of meat. It was well worth the splurge if you are on a budget. Happy and full, the walk back in the pouring rain reminds you just how much that trek outside of the center of Ubud was worth it for those ribs.

Pork ribs ready for grilling Interior of Naughty Nuri's Warung in Ubud, Bali Finished spare ribs at Naughty Nuri's


Nuri's Warung and Grill, Jl Raya Sangiggan (opposite the Neka Art Museum half way up the hill heading north out of Ubud), ☎ +62 361 977547. 10AM-11PM daily.

Saturday, November 6, 2010

Ibu Oka Babi Guling

Babi Guling Special at Ibu Oka, Ubud, Bali, IndonesiaJava chooses beef, but in Bali, pork reigns. Babi guling or suckling pig is the ultimate Balinese dish that made Warung Ibu Oka Babi Guling famous, now a site of foodie pilgrimage in Ubud (at least the Chowhounders or other tourists claim so and the push from Anthony Bourdain does not hurt either). The slow-cook spit-roasting process results in tender meat and crispy skin. This quest for babi guling was another solo mission backed by determination to taste luscious pork.

Ibu Oka Babi Guling, Ubud, Bali, IndonesiaI sat down at a table with two other small parties finishing their meals. I opted for the Babi Guling Special plate at 30,000Rp and an iced tea with no sugar. The menu centers around all that can be created from the roasted pig, particularly the skins and meat. There was another set plate at 50,000Rp that came with soup and the babi guling came out on a heaping portion on a plate separate from the rice, but it looked too filling. The Babi Guling Special was served in one plate. The base is rice, fried pork skin, roasted pork skin, pork meat, a sort of chunky, spiced vegetable sauce or marinade on top of the meat, and a special salad with a sour and bitter hint. Basically, the plate had the best of everything that comes from the roasted suckling pork. For every bite, I tried to create the "perfect" bite by adding a little bit of each thing on the plate to my spoon. The pork was very tender and savory. The pork skins were also extremely crispy and carried a nice flavor from the roasting. The special salad that came with the dish balanced out the flavors and the iced tea finished each bite nicely.

At the time of visiting, there were two locations of Ibu Oka, but the one closest to the center of Ubud was closed, probably due to the royal wedding that was taking place across the street. This location was about 150 meters farther north and in a traditional compound setting. Passing the entrance, there was a truck with three pigs in the back ready for butchering in the open kitchen (with an open sink nearby for washing hands). Diners sat at tables around the compound with strangers and friends. The atmosphere was familial and communal, perfect for this Balinese dining experience.

Ibu Oka Babi Guling, Jalan Suweta (just north of the Jl Raya Ubud-Jl Suweta-Monkey Forest Rd crossroads). Ubud, Bali, Indonesia