Frenzied Palate

First Look: CaliBurger ie "The Fake In N Out"

2011-12-12T01:30:00.001-08:00

Gasps of amazement and horror rippled through Shanghai amongst those familiar with the California burger joint, In N Out. CaliBurger is opening a 山寨 shānzhài (refers to Chinese imitation and pirated brands and goods) store in front of the cheap compound popular amongst expats, SanHe HuaYuan 三和花园. It was set to open on Friday, December 9, 2011, as reported on various Shanghai lifestyle websites. CaliBurger apparently had a media night on the eve of its opening as well as to introduce the three finalists of the CaliBurger Girl Contest. Passerbys that the couple weeks up to this date reported that the burners were on and vigorous testing was being done as the kitchen ventilators emptied out street-side.

I am there at 12:30 on Friday, December 9, 2011. I wanted to see what they were about and how CaliBurger was at its attempt to ape the beloved In N Out. The CaliBurger sign does not hang outside, aside from the wires that will be used to power it. There are two people standing at the door to greet me as I walk in. Roy Newman, self-proclaimed wine distributor first and investor second, and Jon, the Californian beach-blonde guy doing business development, basically stared at me when I entered. The place was void of customers not to mention a menu.

"Hi, how can we help you?" Inquisitive stares. Awkward silence.
"Online it says you are supposed to be open today."
"We are not open." More staring.
"Then why does it say online that you are supposed to be open today? I have friends already on their way."
"A lot of friends? Um...what can we do?" They look at each other.
"Are you from California?"
"Would you like a sample?"
"Yes." Free food!

I take a seat in the booth behind me and wait for my friends. Roy Newman takes the time to sit and talk. He is excited that an actual Californian in Shanghai would visit CaliBurger. We know that CaliBurger had bought the rights to use signature trademarks of In N Out in China, Russia, Hong Kong, and Australia, among other places as In N Out had failed to secure this previously. There were some legal issues with In N Out that even went so far as to provoke an In N Out popup for the purposes of "soft market research." I am informed that CaliBurger has come to an amicable agreement with In N Out only the day before that basically "gives [CaliBurger] well-wishes on the international venture." Since this agreement, the menu items known as "Double Double," "Animal Style," and "Protein Style" are now referred to as "CaliDouble," "Wild Style," and "Garden Style," respectively. CaliBurger did not want to copy In N Out, but merely pay homage and spread its greatness abroad.

The menu was limited that day as only burgers were available and they have not yet found a suitable supplier for potatoes. We ordered from our table a cheeseburger with whole grilled onions and no pickles and a couple CaliDoubles Wile Style. We did not have to go to the counter to pick up our order since CaliBurger decided that diners will have the option to order from their table.

CaliBurger Cheeseburger and midway through its consumption
Now on to the actual burgers. They arrived in a box and wrapped in a branded hamburger sleeve. They did not go so far as to copy the hidden Bible verses on select In N Out packaging. The cheeseburger arrived with whole grilled onions and pickles "Wild Style," which was a fail since the girl who took the order was clearly fluent in English. Not wanting to make a fuss, the pickles were picked out. The CaliDouble looked really good and it smelled great. The burger was pretty solid for that price point (28RMB for a burger, 33RMB for a cheeseburger, 48RMB for a CaliDouble). It was of appropriate size and had great texture: crunch from the lettuce, softness of the bun, girth of savory meat, sweet grilled onion, juicy tomato, gooey cheese and soft zing from the sauce. Breaking the burger down to its individual components was a slightly different story. The buns are made locally and were toasted on the inside so the bun never got soggy, but I swear the In N Out buns were lighter and spongier. Few produce can compare to what you can get in California. The lettuce may not be as green, but it was crisp the whole way through and not browning. You cannot expect to get a decent tomato in Shanghai, especially asking a winter tomato in Shanghai to meet Californian standards. The American cheese melted the way through and did not have that over-processed gag-inducing flavor that is commonly found in Chinese-made American sandwich singles. The burger patty was dry. There was not indication if the patty was pressed whilst cooking (Roy was not aware of the cooking methods used). Luckily, the cheese and sauce were able to cover that fact up. CaliBurger was thinking of importing beef from the States, which is illegal, but sourced Australian beef instead. They claimed that Chinese beef is not up to their standards. However, this does not take into consideration the CaliBurger motto of "Always Fresh." Putting together different cuts to create a great burger is a bit of an art, so perhaps they should consider further testing of different combinations of Chinese beef cuts.

Vanilla Spiked Shake and CaliBurger branded wine
Newman claimed to be a wine guy first and an investor second. He brings out and offers us a bottle of CaliBurger-branded Californian red wine that they will be offering. The wine was chosen to compliment the burgers and is not very heavy. Then we are offered a cup of their spiked shakes (28RMB), which is the standard milkshake spiked with bourbon. The vanilla Spiked Shake was pretty tasty and the bourbon flavor was clear. The milkshake could have been thicker. There is still discussion on what the final bourbon source will be, but Jim Beam was mentioned. After the wine and the Spiked Shake as well as the convenience store beer we brought since drinks were not available, this lunch chat was getting tipsy. You can call it either a way to win us over or to blur newly made memories. Still thinking about that vanilla Spiked Shake...

Let's say the visit was during its "soft-opening" (they had planned the real opening for 9th December after the media tasting the night before) so CaliBurger still has time to work out the kinks for its January 2012 opening. Though, this is not a particularly opportune time with the Christmas holiday season just ending and Chinese New Year being the last week in January. Roy Newman and his team were eager to listen to criticisms and suggestions for improvement, so here is to CaliBurger being able to produce a solid product and maintain oversight to ensure standards after turning it over to a local team. Or so you would hope.

CaliBurger. 98 Yanping Lu (by Xinzha Lu), Shanghai, China. 中国上海市静安区延平路98号 (近新闸路). CaliBurger.Asia

Salute

2011-11-27T06:05:00.000-08:00

If you are of the persuasion that a great neighborhood includes a cozy, homey wine bar with cheap bottles and nibbles, Salute is your Italian spot in Shanghai. House wines (imported) start at 130-160RMB per bottle.

Salute has a small retail store and display case for cured meats, cheeses, and other antipasti. You can buy bottles and meats, cheeses, and other cold items cut to order to have at home or enjoy it right there. The dining menu is written on a small chalkboard featuring simple Italian fare. For seating options, there is the outdoor patio, covered patio, or the few small tables in the store. All the furniture are dark, rustic wood pieces. There are even blankets available if you feel chilled from sitting outside. A couple air-conditioner / heater units are fixed where there is space, but there were also a couple portable heating units that could be rolled adjacent to the table.

The service seems a bit short-staffed or still in training. After being seated and asking for glasses of water, the water jug never came until the server was asked again. The wine bottles came, but without wine glasses. The server went to help another table first, leaving a bottle of wine sitting in front of anxious patrons. However, the food came out quickly after it was ordered and the plates were distributed evenly between the diners.

The salad plates were generous. The caprese (58RMB) had large, thick tomato slices accompanied with generous medallions of fresh mozzarella. The cucumber and tomato salad (35RMB) was also large. However, a sprinkling of dried basil was used in both instances as if hoping to impart the essence of basil. No one is really sure what could be accomplished with dried basil, except for a few mao. There was also a green salad, the bulk of which was an artfully arranged bed of lettuce leaves and tomatoes, but it was nothing more than that.

The antipasti special platter had preserved ham in oil, green olives stuffed with anchovies, black olives, cauliflower in vinegar, and cold aubergine. The vegetables provided a sharp, acidic tang to the salty meats. The charcuterie plate (68RMB or 98RMB for large) had several slices of cured ham, salami, and mortadella. The prosciutto is cut on-site, though the slices were not as thin as the ones cut at City'Super. The cheese plate (58RMB or 88RMB for large) had four cheeses: parmesan, cheddar, bleu cheese, and emmental. The blue cheese was soft and moist, looking like it was cut from a round. Its color was mostly creamy beige with some darkened areas from the mold. Out of the four, the aged parmesan and bleu cheese were the clear winners for quality. The emmental or the cow-milk cheese that it was most similar to was flavorless against the other three it came with. The bright orange cheddar cheese sticks tasted and looked cut straight from the Land O'Lakes block. The bread did not come out until after everything was served, so the meats, cheeses, and antipasti did not get to see the bit of bread it was asking for. The panini was made with prosciutto and salami and pressed in a proper panini grill that left wonderful grill marks and a lightly caramelized exterior from being brushed with olive oil. It was an even balance of bread, meat, and gooey cheese and worth throwing 50RMB down for.

It is already a bad sign when the strawberry sauce accompanying the cheesecake tastes like cheap store-bought, watered-down jam. The cheesecake was bland and lacked the rich and cheesy quality known of cream cheese. The tiramisu was was made up of layers of thin, spongy cake and flavorless cream constructed in a square of perfection. Not a single ladyfinger broke up the monotony of the precise lines. Salute exudes a cozy, comfortable, at-home ambiance, but these desserts do not reflect that in the least.

For 11 people on a Sunday night, 1340RMB covered 2 bottles of house red, 2 caprese salads, 2 salads of tomato and cucumber, 2 green salads, 1 platter of special preserved items, 3 charcuterie plates, 2 cheese plates, 3 panini, 2 tiramisu, and 1 cheesecake.

Salute, at the moment, is better suited for drinking wine at than for a meal, unless too much wine requires some bit of food to absorb the alcohol. The ambiance is comfortable and would make a place to spend a lazy night. So yes, Salute could be your neighborhood wine bar.

Salute. 59 Fuxing Xi Lu, by Yongfu Lu (复兴西路59号,近永福路), Shanghai, China. Tel: 3461 9828

French Onion Soup Grilled Cheese Sandwich

2011-11-14T20:31:00.000-08:00

A bowl of French onion soup emitting a fragrant aroma with hints of dry white wine (and perhaps cognac), big crouton, melting Gruyère and maybe (I say maybe for the 'purists') thyme and bay leaf is screaming grilled cheese sandwich. All the components are there (bread and cheese, clearly) and a French onion twist with its slow-cooked onions caramelized to a golden brown sweetness.

Grilled cheese is a simple American classic. But to make it taste outstanding, quality components are necessary. In addition to good cheese and bread, the texture must also be considered. A golden, buttery, crisp bread surface with soft interior and cheese melted through until gooey. Lackluster grilling and un-melted cheese are already signs of grilled cheese gone wrong. Personally, I prefer to butter toast the inside of the sandwich bread as well so the interior is not soggy, mushy, nor saggy.

This French onion soup grilled cheese sandwich was my first experiment. I took some freshly baked French baguette already at room temperature and cut it in half lengthwise. From a vat of French onion soup, I ladled a healthy helping of the soup onions onto the bread. Rich soup the onions carried soaked into the bread to add flavor, but the thick crust would protect the exterior from getting soggy. A layer of Gruyère was placed atop the onions. In a cast-iron pan over medium-low heat, a nob of butter was melted and the sandwich placed on top and weighted with another heavy pan until one side browned. The process was repeated for the other side so it the sandwich would be evenly crisped. Toasting the sandwich in the oven would also be effective.

The resulting grilled cheese sandwich was actually pretty good. The flavors of each aspect in the assemblage of a classic French onion soup were present: onion soup, crouton, and Gruyère. The bread was buttery and crisp on the outside and the Gruyère was completely melted. However, the bread on the inside was soggy from the soup. The interior sides would be best dry-toasted to counter this. It is also important to use a good French onion soup. The one used at this instance did not have as deep of a color as one would like and the onion flavor was less intense. Time and patience are necessary to draw out the sugars from the onions, which creates that lovely dark brown color.

Yeah, I am definitely going to make this again.

McFlurry International - China 5

2011-11-14T02:25:00.000-08:00

In China, you can call 4008-517517 and get your fix of McDonald's delivered to your door, someone else's door, or a street corner at 04:00am. Even better, avoid talking to anyone and order online in Chinese and English at 4008-517-517.cn with only a 7RMB delivery charge.

Màidāngláo (麦当劳) has a new McFlurry (麦旋风, mài xuànfēng) flavor and it is the Tiramisu McFlurry (提拉米苏麦旋风 Tílāmǐsū MàiXuànfēng) for only 10RMB. Crumbled Oreo cookies are mixed in the classic vanilla soft-serve with a thick coffee syrup swirl. At the standing McDonald's locations, you would be lucky if your McFlurry cup is filled to the halfway point, but when ordering for home delivery, the cup is almost full. The actual flavor did not fulfill its potential and could have benefited from using a vanilla cookie instead of a chocolate-based one to better capture the essence of tiramisu. This flavor combination would have been better suited for a "mocha" concept.

Here is a fun fact about the McDonald's hotline. The phone number uses a phonetic homonym. In Chinese, "517" or 五一七 (wǔ yāo qī) sounds close to 我要吃 (wǒ yào chī) or "I want to eat." "Yāo" is used instead of "yī" in oral conversation to clarify the number in a sequence of digits. So when you repeat the McDonald's phone number in Chinese, it sounds like you are saying "Wǒ yào chī, wǒ yào chī," or "I want to eat, I want to eat."

Weird Fish in the Mission District

2011-10-19T21:28:00.000-07:00

A vegetarian friend in the Bay Area recommended that we go to Weird Fish in the Mission District for lunch for something typically Californian (think fresh, fresh, fresh) and on a budget. The menu pleases non-vegetarian and vegetarians alike with a variety of options, including vegan ones. Even better, Weird Fish takes on the principles of eating local and sustainable and even tries to farm most of its own produce.

Weird Fish has a cozy little space on Mission Street. It is a bit reminiscent of being on a bright ship without all that pirate cheesiness. The decorative details show an appreciation for local art and the music is pretty good. If you look closely at the artwork above the kitchen area, you can spot a little vented window where the office presumably is. Only when someone is up there moving around do you actually notice. Very sneaky.

The veggie tacos had sweet potato (for that day), mango salsa, slaw, and vegan crema. The bright colors jump out immediately evoking thoughts of the peak of freshness personified is about to be consumed. The sweet potato was prepared in a way that brought out the girth of its savory qualities. There was no skimping with ingredients to build the taco. However light it tasted, the veggie tacos were surprisingly filling for its size.

The Seitan N Chips plate had soy battered house seitan with housemade fries, vegan tartar, and slaw. Seitan, "wheat gluten," "gluten meat," or "wheat meat" is made from wheat starch or vial wheat gluten and washing away the starches leaving only an elastic mass that is insoluble high-protein gluten. It becomes similar to the look and texture of meat when cooked, serving as an alternative substitute to tofu. Different textures can be achieved and it can be flavored a variety of ways. Seitan was first developed in China and is popular among Southeast Asian countries. Those who require a glut-free diet be warned though gluten-free seitan is available. The pieces of fried seitan were just huge though the batter coating could allow one to easily mistake it for true fish. The seitan substitute for fish was mildly flavored, though slightly more chewy than anticipated. The texture was that of a solid piece of moist fish rather than being flaky or over-cooked and dry. The red cabbage slaw added some bite and contrast to the fried seitan. The chips were newly fried, soft on the inside and crispy on the outside.

Veggie Tacos and Seitan N Chips
The weird fish that is not really fish at Weird Fish sets this restaurant apart. For every fish dish there is an alternative answer to it on the menu. Amazing. One can definitely appreciate this balance.

Weird Fish. 2193 Mission Street, San Francisco, CA 94110, United States. Tel: +1.415.863.4744. Closed Sundays. WeirdFishSF.com.

glo London Shanghai Giant Lemon Meringues

2011-10-09T09:16:00.000-07:00

Whilst living in London, I was introduced to the giant meringues in plain, raspberry, and chocolate piled high at the bakery entrance on the ground floor of Whole Foods on Kensington High Street. The meringues were as large as a small, round bread loaf and hardly colored with a hard, crisp exterior and a soft, sticky interior. Some may consider the meringue flavorless sugar, but the egg whites carry its own subtle flavor should you take the time to look and appreciate it. The way the meringue would melt against the heat of the tongue was wondrous.

Apparently, there are three different types of meringues (and unfortunately I lack the baking knowledge to know which method was used to create the giang meringues): French meringue (hard) with its delicate texture is made by adding sugar in stages to beaten egg whites before being baked or poached, Italian meringue (soft) uses a hot sugar and water syrup at soft-ball stage to "cook" the egg whites while beating making it the most stable type of meringue; and Swiss meringue (hard), which has a firmer texture than French meringue, where the egg whites and sugar are beaten over a double-boiler. The hard meringues are baked at extremely low temperatures to draw out the moisture and not color the meringues. When the temperature is too warm, the sugars will crystalize and color the meringue or the outside of the meringue will set before the inside, creating that hard-on-the-outside-soft-on-the-inside effect.

Baker and Spice's Anfu Lu location started selling chocolate meringues sprinkled with raw, sliced almonds. It would have been nice with a little more variety of flavor, but you could get your giant meringue fix here.

A few months ago, glo London Bakery finally opened on the ground floor of the glo London complex on Wulumuqi Nan Lu. Their meringue selection looked more promising with a giant lemon variety and a chocolate one that was overpowered by thick ribbons of chocolate (the meringue should be tasted as well!). The lemon meringue is decorated with fine shavings of lemon and lime zests, which is also on the inside of the meringue when it is cracked open. There is a hole in the giant meringue when it is split in half. The meringues first had a crisp outside and soft inside with bits of lemon and lime zest adding a nice tartness to the sticky soft interior. Over time and many visits, the meringues have been cooked longer and are slightly browned at the bottom, perhaps to avoid the soft interior for a perfectly hard, giant meringue. Personally, I kind of miss the gooeyness found encased in hard meringue. The lemon meringue is not overpowered by citrus flavors and is light and enjoyable.

glo London. 1 Wulumuqi Lu (by Dongping lu) / 乌鲁木齐路1号 (近东平路), Shanghai 200031, China. Tel: +86 21 6466 6565. glolondon.com

Reberg Beer - Locally Brewed in Shanghai

2011-10-05T09:17:00.000-07:00

If Harry Potter was really drinking butterbeer, the favored drink in the wizarding world of magic, he would be drinking Reberg light. One whiff of the Reberg light beer and the aroma of butter immediately warms your nose. Whoa, butterbeer come to life in the Muggle world. It also has notes of sweet bread (not the meaty kind), hazelnut, caramel, and a hint of butterscotch, though not at all too sweet or sugary. The beer is full in your mouth, but not too filling for your stomach. Reberg is a German-style beer brewed an hour outside the center of Shanghai, China, and comes in a light and dark variety. The beer is kept in a special metal cannister with seal as it has so much carbonation it would blow the top off a regular beer bottle. It does not have a long shelf-life as it is good for only seven days, but is best drank the first three days before it starts to sour a little. Therefore, Reberg would be difficult to find this beer at your local store since stocking it would be difficult. This is quite unfortunate, but it is available at Madison for 38RMB a bottle for both the light and dark variety (both pictured with the use of a friend's camera phone). Since it is brewed locally, it is considerably cheaper than imported craft beers, but not as cheap as Tsing-Tao or Suntory.

J.K. Rowling claimed in a Bon Appetit interview (2002) that she "imagined it to taste like a bit less-sickly butterscotch." Most recipes found online use cream soda, butterscotch, and butter, which seems really rich and too sugary or closer to sickenly sweet. The books also indicate that butterbeer has the power to get house-elves drunk or dependent on and can lower inhibitions of humans, just as the alcohol content in beer is able to.

Reberg. www.rebergbeer.com

Devilicious and Food Truck Fabulousness

2011-08-23T03:34:00.001-07:00

Summer is when Hillcrest gets ultra-fab and not just because of the incredible San Diego, but also to mark Pride weekend. Local San Diego food trucks gathered together at the San Diego LGBT Community Center for Food Truck Fabulousness, a benefit for the AIDS Walk in San Diego. It was also fitting that this particular event took place on the eve of SD Pride, a great kick-off for the weekend. Proceeds from Food Truck Fabulousness went to AIDS Walk and Run San Diego and visitors could also donate themselves at the free event. For those that have been hunting down a few of these trucks, this gathering made it a lot easier to find the vendors you want to try. I was after the butter poached lobster grilled cheese sandwich from the Devilicious Food Truck.

Devilicious Food Truck greeted everyone right at the entrance of The Center's parking lot and a few visitors were commenting on its participation in the Food Network's The Great Food Truck Race. Even at 18:00 there was a short queue. A short wait after paying US$9.00 for the butter poached lobster grilled cheese and $4.00 for truffled parmesan fries, the order came out very hot so you know it was made to order (at least at this hour). The butter poached lobster grilled cheese made with lobster, some sort of melted cheese, caramelized onion, oven-roasted roma tomatoes and herbs on sourdough.

The hot butter poached lobster grilled cheese sandwich felt decadently buttery upon first touch. It smelled buttery with the lingering aroma of lobster. It was definitely cheesy. The presence of the oven-roasted roma tomatoes was not very pronounced, blending in more with the caramelized onion. The lobster was cut into large chunks and not lost among the rest of the sandwich components to remind you that lobster is the co-starring with the cheese. The texture was definitely there, but the lobster flavor was a lot lighter than expected. It still was pretty tasty.

The truffled parmesan fries had black flecks from the truffles and covered with large shavings of parmesan. The parmesan cheese had a silkier texture and milder taste, which made me think that an aged Asiago was used instead as it takes on a flavor similar to parmigiano with age and is interchangeable with paremsan in some cuisines.

After looking at the Devilicious online menu, I am really curious about this asparagus grilled cheese sandwich made with goat cheese.

Here are a few more shots of Food Truck Fabulousness. I was actually wondering what an "Italian Lollipop" (offered by Mangia Mangia) was. The white chocolate macadamia nut cookies from Sweet Treats made a yummy dessert with big chunks of white chocolate and a chewy texture. Breaking it in big pieces was also quite easy.

From left to right: Sweet Treats cookie display, white chocolate macadamia nut cookie and whoopie pies from Sweet Treats, Mangia Mangia menu, Food Truck Fabulousness
Food truck gatherings are definitely a way to sample more in one place. One would be so lucky to have their favorite truck park regularly nearby.

Devilicious Food Truck. Check schedule for location details. San Diego, California. DeviliciousFoodTruck.com
Sweet Treats Truck. Check schedule for location details. San Diego, California. SweetTreatsTruck.com
Mangia Mangia Truck. Check schedule for location details. San Diego, California. MangiaMangiaMobile.com
San Diego LGBT Community Center. 3909 Centre Street, San Diego, CA. theCenterSD.org

Gran Melia's Acqua Pizza and Beer Promotion

2011-08-06T22:57:00.000-07:00

Acqua Italian Restaurant's Pizza Salami and Pizza Proscuitto e Funghi
Acqua Italian Restaurant at the Gran Melia Shanghai in Pudong has an unlimited pizza and draught Tiger beer promotion for 88RMB or 101RMB after a 15% service charge on Fridays from 18:00-22:30 (until September 1, as advertised on CityWeekend). Restaurants in luxury hotels in Asia have a reputation of particularly good fare. Unfortunately, this was not the case at Acqua. The service was impeccable, however. The host promptly escorted us to our table and beer was immediately served. During the entire stay, the beer level in each glass never went below the halfway point as the draught Tiger was stealthily poured so as not to interrupt the conversation. The Tiger beer kept flowing until the restaurant ran out of beer an hour before the promotion ended. Other tables were also wondering why the restaurant was not supplied enough beer to last the duration of the promotion. The host informed us that beer was being brought from the 30th floor, but it was only bottles of Tsing Tao beer, which were poured into our empty glasses. The selected pizzas for the promotion were: margherita, salami (sausage), vegetariano (black olives with red and yellow peppers), prosciutto e funghi, and marinara (shrimp and tuna). The crust of the pizza was not super thin, but had great blackened blisters on its underside. The toppings were horrendous. The pizzas looked and tasted like meat or no meat in yellow, red, and brown, regardless of the variety chosen. Intead of pork sausage, it appeared to be pieces of pork. Pizza prosciutto e funghi was the best one, but in place of paper-thin slivers of prosciutto were thick slices of ham. The upside is the pizzas were not greasy and the kitchen obliged requests for tobasco, Chinese chili sauce, balsamic vinegar (in the form of a sweet, thick balsamic reduction), and dried oregano or basically anything to add complexity to an otherwise flat-tasting pizza. After drinking all the beer in the restaurant does the pizza start to really taste good. The only worthy part of this promotion is the unlimited Tiger draught beer (while supplies last). Maybe the regular menu at Acqua Italian Restaurant at Gran Melia Shanghai is inversely better as the pizza was poor?

Acqua. Gran Melia Shanghai, 2/F, 1288 Lujiazui Huan Lu (near Dongyuan Lu). 陆家嘴环路1288号2楼 (近东园路), Shanghai, China. Tel: 86 (021) 3867 8888. www.gran-melia-shanghai.com

McFlurry International - Rolo McFlurry in the United States

2011-08-02T18:57:00.000-07:00

McDonald's is known for its taste standard, which is tasting exactly the same at whatever location you happen to visit anywhere in the world. The appeal of the McFlurry is that the McDonald's vanilla soft-serve is combined with different flavors, specializing the McFlurry by region or county. Even abroad, my Twitter feed blew up with the announcement of the Rolo McFlurry. For those not acquainted with the Rolo, it is a milk chocolate shell filled with caramel in the shape of a truncated cone. The thick shell of chocolate means ratio of chocolate to caramel is slightly higher and the caramel filling is also soft to almost solid.

The Rolo McFlurry is mashed up Rolos, which looked more like pieces of milk chocolate shell, and a swirl of caramel sauce.

Snack size (US$1.99) is 340-430 calories while the regular (US$2.69) is 510-640 calories. Also on the menu were the classic Oreo and M&M flavors. It is not clear exactly where the Rolo McFlurry is on the calorie scale, but chances are it is on the higher side.

The server who made the Rolo McFlurry at the Southcoast Plaza location visited in California put heaping spoonfuls of Rolo and a thick squeeze of caramel in the McFlurry cup with its protective lid to prevent spillage. It was haphazardly mixed together by hand and looked like a gorgeous mess, though maybe not well-mixed. After I started taking a photo of it, the server offered to make a second "better looking" one (and better mixed using the McFlurry machine). I took the server up on this offer but was immediately mortified when she threw it away instead of just giving it to some kid passing by as a mistake order. In the below photos, you can see the first Rolo McFlurry compared to the second.

Oh...It was good. Plenty of thick caramel sauce and chocolate chunks throughout the soft-serve ice cream. The actual portion was up to the top of the cup instead of halfway, the way it usually comes out in China (that is what that special lid is for!). Rolo in McFlurry form...yum.

McFlurry photos on the left are the first McFlurry while the second one made is on the right

McFlurry International - China 4

2011-08-02T17:48:00.000-07:00

It appears that in honor of Kung Fu Panda 2, McDonald's in China (that is Màidāngláo, 麦当劳) is featuring the special Red Bean McFlurry. If you want a direct translation it is more "Red Bean Taste (hóngdòu kǒuwèi, 红豆口味)," which is a more accurate description of how this McFlurry (麦旋风, mài xuànfēng) is flavored. Perhaps this is an allusion to the red panda, which is a distant relative to the giant panda featured in the film. The server at the counter informs us that buying two McFlurrys is a better deal at 15RMB instead of one at 10RMB.

To make the hóngdòu kǒuwèi mài xuànfēng or 红豆口味麦旋风, red bean flavor syrup and Oreo pieces are mixed in with the vanilla soft-serve ice cream. The red bean flavor is not at all strong and is perhaps over-sweetened. One customer thought the McFlurry tasted like artificial strawberry instead of red bean, a belief furthered by the pink hue the ice cream took on. The McDonald's version of "red bean taste" could be described as a light, musky berry flavor. Only at the bottom of the cup were one or two actual red beans found to provide authenticity. More real red beans mixed in would make this version of the McFlurry slightly more appealing.

Lòushì Tāngbāoguǎn 陋室汤包馆

2011-07-30T16:41:00.000-07:00

Everyone has their local xiǎolóngbāo 小笼包 or tāngbāo 汤包 spot, granted some are better than others and you may travel farther for a better soup dumpling (like Jia Jia Tang Bao, for example). Lòushì Tāngbāoguǎn 陋室汤包馆 (lòushì 陋室 meaning "common room" and tāngbāoguǎn 汤包馆 for "soup dumpling shop/shack") serves the vicinity around Nanchang Lu between Shaanxi Nan Lu and Xiangyang Lu.

Xiǎolóngbāo 小笼包 ("soup dumpling") versus tāngbāo 汤包 ("soup bun") - what is the difference? The Chowhound boards noted that tāngbāo has a greater emphasis on the soup than the meat, but otherwise, they are generally the same thing. After speaking with a few Shanghainese, the consensus is the larger soup dumplings you can eat with a straw should be referred to as "tāngbāo," but otherwise they are all the same. Xiǎolóngbāo 小笼包 is the same as tāngbāo 汤包 depending on what you feel like calling it. These juicy little parcels are not exclusive to Shanghai though because other areas, like Suzhou, have their own version of the soup dumpling. Hence, the characters at the bottom of the Lòushì Tāngbāoguǎn 陋室汤包馆 sign saying "Nánjīng tè sè xiǎochī 南京特色小吃" or "Nanjing special quality/kind snack."

The menu only has three versions of soup dumpling: Lòushì tāngbāo 陋室汤包 (their speciality or simply just pork soup dumplings); xièfěn 蟹粉 or crab meal (and pork); and xiārén 虾仁 or shrimp meat. Being an afternoon snack, the house specialty or pork and the crab and pork soup dumplings were ordered. There were still some pork soup dumplings in the steamers at the entrance, which came out first. The crab and pork ones took about 10 minutes to steam to perfection. The pork tāngbāo was quite soupy and the wrapper was a bit thick on top where it was pinched together. It tasted a tad oily and not freshly made, but was still satisfying. The crab and pork tāngbāo was really savory with bits of crab meat and plenty of soup inside the dumpling. The crab flavor was not overwhelming and the meat inside the dumpling held together. The wrapper had a similar issue at being a bit too thick at the top, but by rolling it over a little and biting a little hole at the side gives you that first hot soup.

Left to right from top: Lòushì tāngbāo 陋室汤包, the inside of the pork soup dumpling, xièfěn tāngbāo 蟹粉汤包, inside of the crab and pork soup dumpling, steamers outside
Lòushì Tāngbāoguǎn is not a particularly fancy place, but the crab and pork soup dumplings are great and the dumplings are definitely not lacking on the soup.

Lòushì Tāngbāoguǎn 陋室汤包馆. 601 Nanchang Lu (by Xiangyang Lu), Shanghai, People's Republic of China

Seasonal Vegetable Torta

2011-07-30T16:12:00.000-07:00

Technology definitely helps to indulge gastronomic senses through the ability to share beautiful photos of dishes and tips and tricks to spruce up cooking. Browsing the internet, I came across these gorgeous photos of a sort of crustless quiche baked in a smaller springform with a height that displays the marbelization of the colorful summer vegetables used. The ingredient list was not so demanding (as in cost, aside from the cheese, and easily accessible) and could be substituted for other seasonal vegetables.

When putting together the actual torta, I used milk instead of heavy cream. I also opted to roast red peppers myself to intensify the sweetness of the red pepper and add a hint of smokiness. After the vegetables finished sauteing, I put them in a strainer to drain off extra liquid instead of using a slotted spoon to remove as much excess water as possible. While baking, the top of the torta puffed and browned more than in the photo of the original recipe, but I am not sure how much the change in milk fat content in the egg mixture affected the texture or because it was being baked in a glorified toaster oven. In any case, the resulting vegetable torta was just as pretty as well as light, savory, and delicious hot or cold. It was great as a side or a snack. A big slice could do as a main course. I am tempted to try this recipe again with asparagus tips and more leafy greens.

Vegetable marbelization
Summer Vegetable Torta (adapted)

3 tbsp olive oil
1/2 medium onion, chopped
8 oz mushrooms, sliced
3 medium zucchini, sliced 1/4 inch thick
2 red peppers, sliced into 1/4 inch strips OR 1 12 oz jar marinated red peppers,
drained and cut into 1/4 inch wide strips
8 oz cream cheese, softened
6 large eggs
1/4 cup half and half or heavy cream
2 garlic cloves, minced
3 tbsp fresh basil, chopped
1/2 tsp salt
1/2 tsp pepper
2 cups shredded Gruyère

Preheat oven to 350F and brush bottom and sides of a 9-inch springform pan with oil. Line bottom with parchment and brush parchment with oil. Wrap outside of pan with aluminum foil.

Heat oil in a large skillet over medium heat. Add the onion, mushrooms, zucchini, and fresh peppers, if using. Saute until vegetables are just tender, about 10 minutes. Put sauteed vegetables in strainer to drain of excess liquid.

In a large bowl, beat cream cheese until smooth. Beat in eggs until combined (it's okay if it's a little lumpy). Beat in cream or half and half. Stir in garlic, basil, salt and pepper. Add sauteed vegetables to egg mixture, then add drained marinated peppers, if using. Add shredded cheese. Stir with a rubber spatula to combine.

Spread mixture in prepared pan and set pan on baking sheet. Bake for 1 1/2 - 1 3/4 hours or until top is puffy and golden brown and the center no longer jiggles when shaken. Remove from oven and let cool 10 minutes in pan, then run a sharp knife around edges of torta to loosen. Gently remove pan sides. Serve warm, room temperature, or cold.

Serves 8 (large slices). Each serving has 8.25g of carbs and 1.5g of fiber.

Oven Roasting Red Peppers

2011-07-03T20:37:00.000-07:00

When perusing the Internet for recipes that are simple and easy, some of the ingredients that are cheap at your local market in the States are Europe cost about ten-fold in China, especially in Shanghai. I wanted more than to just cut thin strips of red peppers and throw it in the pan. There is a smokey flavor carried by red peppers from roasting and that should be going into my dish. Roasting also intensifies the flavors of the red peppers. Unfortunately, I am not willing to fork out all that renminbi to go to an expensive expat-oriented supermarket to buy (fire)roasted red peppers preserved in oil with some garlic or herbs. The Food Network showed one of its chefs or cooks doing it at home, bringing you to the mantra of "If [Yan] can cook, so can you!" Hear, hear.

My kitchen in China is ill-equipped. There are no tongs; only chopsticks. Trying to fire the exterior of red peppers over a gas-flame using wooden chopsticks seemed risky to me. There is also no built-in oven, but a glorified toaster oven of relatively large size. Produce is often tricky because a lot of it has been bred and engineered to look good, not taste good (e.g. tomatoes). I ended up at the Avocado Lady and bought a couple unblemished red peppers. Now to hope for the best.

The red peppers went on a piece of aluminum foil on a small pan and was placed in a pre-heated oven (mine ranged between 400-450°F). About every 15 minutes, after the skins formed dark splotches, the red peppers were turned using chopsticks. After every side of the red peppers were a bit black, I took them out of the oven, put them in a bowl, and covered the bowl to steam the red peppers. This allows the skins to separate from the flesh so it is easy to remove. The red peppers generally held its original shape coming out, but quickly deflated. When the red peppers are cool enough to handle, the skins slip right off with a bit of rubbing. And you never want to rinse the red peppers after they come out of the oven because you will just wash away the smokey quality. These peppers looked, smelled, and tasted just as good as the imported ones. They can be preserved in extra-virgin olive oil with some herbs and garlic, if desired. Save yourself the cash and do it yourself.

Red peppers straight from the oven, red peppers steaming in a bowl
Oven Roasted Red Peppers
Red Peppers

Pre-heat oven to 450°F / 230°C. Arrange red peppers on a cookie sheet lined with foil and roast in the oven, turning about every 15 minutes or when dark splotches form. Do this until the red peppers are roasted all the way through, about 30-40 minutes. When the peppers are done, remove them from the oven and place in a covered bowl to steam to make the skins easier to peel off. Once peppers are cooled, remove the skins and discard with your hands or a paring knife. Pull the top of the red pepper off and remove the seeds. Remember to never rinse or wash the peppers at this point.

Xindalu China Kitchen Dim Sum Special

2011-07-02T23:47:00.000-07:00

Xindalu China Kitchen Restaurant at Hyatt on the Bund was having a dim sum promotion for 180RMB (plus 15% service charge) for a steady stream of these small dishes for lunch. Only tea or juice was included with the deal, which ended on June 16 after running daily during lunch hours for about two weeks. So, sorry in advance if you were expecting to go and take advantage of this promotion. The 180RMB price tag may be daunting for some, especially with cheaper all-you-can-eat dim sum deals being offered in Shanghai, but Xindalu has made a reputation for itself as a fine dining experience in an upscale hotel. Most know of Xindalu for the way its Peking duck that is cooked in a special wood oven or so the Hyatt website claims. The flavor of Xindalu's Peking duck is supposed to rival or best that of the popular chain, Quanjude. The dim sum promotion allows diners to sample another region of China for a fine dining lunch experience, though you could surely supplement the meal with other items off the menu. The menu for the dim sum lunch was not particularly extensive, most likely to maintain control of the quality of the dishes, some of which may have been created specially for this promotion. Upon arrival, diners are given a pen to check off which dishes or how many of them they want on a paper menu. If you want to order more, the server will bring out another of the same menu where you can re-order your favorites. Of course, we tried as much as a pair possibly could.

The restaurant is located on the ground floor of Hyatt on the Bund and adjacent to the lobby with no significant views to admire, though you could easily see who is rolling up the main driveway of the hotel. (Check out Vue bar upstairs). The main dining area is dark with the seats by the window reserved for smoking. The kitchen is open although partitioned with glass that fogs up from steam giving diners access to the action while waiting for dishes to be served.

From top, left to right: Pan-fried turnip cake, Barbecue pork puff-pastry with sesame, Fried goose liver taro dumplings, inside of goose liver dumplings, Steamed shrimp dumplings, Steamed scallop vegetable dumplings, Fried mango rice paper roll, Fried mushroom bean curd skin roll
The plates came out as quickly as the order was put in and there was barely enough room for our individual pots of tea and towers of steamers. The fried goose liver taro dumplings were particularly decadent, savory, and heavy despite the lightness of its fried interior. The fried mushroom bean curd skin roll was crispy, light, and not at all oily. The puff pastry around the barbecue pork was more densely packed than light imparting a solid crust than flaky exterior. The small filling was slightly sweet.

From top, left to right: Steamed chiu chow dumplings, Baked Barbecue Pork Buns, Mini baked chicken meat pies, Steamed beef balls with bean curd sheet, Steamed traditional Cantonese sponge cake, Fried custard glutinous dumplings, Steamed Sesame Buns, Black sesame interior of sesame buns
The baked dim sum items had a very dense crust encasing the moist, salty, and savory meat in the center. There were a few items on the steamed and fried section of the menu that were more sweet than savory: steamed traditional Cantonese sponge cake, fried custard glutinous dumplings, and the steamed buns filled with black sesame. The latter of the two were more memorable for a tongue conditioned by Western sweets.

Clockwise from bottom left: Sweetened sago cream with mango and pomelo, Red bean soup, Almond tea with egg white, Chilled mango pudding (with condensed milk), Baked sago pudding with chestnut paste
Xindalu does particularly well with its dessert (and sweet items as mentioned above) without being sugary. The sweetened sago with mango and bits of pomelo was light and fresh. The red bean soup was cool and subtly sweet. The almond tea with egg white could almost be sipped straight from the bowl and was as light as it looked. The chilled mango pudding apparently came with condensed milk, but it was better used on the baked sago pudding with chestnut paste that was served warm. The meal ended nicely with this touch of sweetness.

The dim sum lunch was extremely filling with a very attentive staff, but classic dim sum dishes like the pork ribs were missing from the selection. Given the limited selection, each dish was on average good for what it was, but still the dim sum at Ye Shanghai is preferred. It was nice to try the dim sum at Xindalu just for the experience. However, I am more inclined to return to sample that wonderful smelling Peking duck. The way that the server would clean the carcass precisely with his skilled hand releasing the aroma of the duck meat was enough to get your appetite going again.

One fun fact: The concierge at Hyatt on the Bund advised me that although they do not valet bicycles nor have a proper bike parking area, they will gladly escort you and your bike to the place where staff park their bicycles, electric bikes, electric scooters, and motos. Just make sure that your bike is not one that is particularly valuable as you are parking at your own risk.

Xindalu. Hyatt on the Bund, 199 Huangpu Road, Shanghai 200080, China. 上海外滩茂悦大酒店中国上海黄浦路199号邮政编码：200080. Hours: Lunch 11:30 – 14:30, Dinner 17:30 – 22:30. Reservations: + 86 21 6393 1234 * 6318.

glo London Shanghai Gastro Grill

2011-07-02T08:32:00.000-07:00

After spending some time in London and appreciating its gastropub culture, I was curious to see what glo London would bring to China with its ambitious plans of a bakery cafe, gastro grill, lounge bar, rooftop barbecue, and pizza delivery all under one roof. I managed to get in on an invite to sample the food from the gastro grill before the soft opening (Shanghai loves soft openings). The tables were barely arranged and the bakery cafe on the first floor was still being put together. glo London was barely open and being so new, there should be some understanding that the wait staff may still need a little extra training and the kitchen is still working out a few kinks.

The starters had the most international flair out of all the sections on the menu. However, its size and portion were not very impressive, especially compared to the price. The Satay Chicken (60RMB) made from char-grilled chicken breast marinated in spicy peanut, chilli, and coconut sauce was tender and moist with a hint of sweet flavor. The lovely marinated taste was reflected in its equally appealing yellow color. The Chargrilled Lemon Honey Tiger Prawns (85RMB) marinated in special honey marinade was the most disappointing out of all the starters. The prawns were not even tiger prawns! Maybe the kitchen ran out of tiger prawns and neglected to tell its patrons that the tiger prawn species would be substituted for another that evening? Who knows. The grand opening should at least see real tiger prawns. The marinade on the prawns was good, but the prawns were a tad dry as if left on the grill for a few seconds too long. The Duck Confit Samosas (65RMB), a trio of spiced duck samosas served with apple ginger chutney, were also very flavorful and moist. The accompanying apple ginger chutney added a soft and sweet bite to the spiced duck. The wrapper was a bit limp and could have been a touch crispier though. The Chilli and Corriander Calamari (65RMB) lightly-dusted and pan-fried with fresh chilli, garlic, corriander, and soy sauce served with lime and sweet chilli sauce was of average quality. The calamari came out hot and only featured rings cut from the mantle. The dish would have been more interesting if the tentacles were also used. A good squeeze of lemon made the calamari that much better. The Crab Croquettes (70RMB) was made from hand-picked crab meat mixed with freshly chopped herbs, onions, garlic, chilli, and creamy potato accompanied with lime and sweet chilli sauce. It easily could have been the best starter from the meal as the bulk of the croquette was crab meat instead of filler. The onions, galric, chilli, and potato in the croquette were not overpowering the main feature of the dish - the crab meat.

The mains were significantly better in terms of price compared to size and quality. The selection leaned more toward an American menu with a few popular English choices such as the curries. The half slab of Hickory BBQ Baby Back Ribs (145RMB) is slow-cooked in a hickory oak burning smoke pit and finished on the chargrill before getting smothered with homemade bbq sauce. The ribs were actually full-sized pork ribs and was a massive portion. The meat was incredibly tender and slipped easily off the bone. There was great caramelization on the meat underneath that sweet barbecue sauce. Like most of the mains, it was served with hand-cut steak chips, battered onion rings, roasted cherry tomatoes, chargrilled mushrooms, and crisp mixed leaves. With the size of the mains, the steak chips and onion rings were almost unnecessary filler. The texture and taste of the mushrooms was more marinated than grilled. Half of these sides (the mushrooms and juicy cherry tomatoes) almost did give me the impression of an English breakfast. One diner was disappointed with the size of the Chargrilled Honey and Coriander whole Sea Bass (180RMB) marinated in coriander, cumin, ginger, Manuka honey, and fresh chillies. The fish was small, but tasty, especially with the marinade creating a barely there crust on the skin of the fish. The beef fillet (238RMB) raised some eyebrows because it did not taste like a solid beef cut, but rather marinated in soy sauce (manuka honey marinade), which masked the flavor of the beef. Also disappointing was the London-Style Chicken Tikka Curry (110RMB) with tender chicken pieces in tikka sauce flavored with fresh garlic, cardamom, coriander and fresh chilli. The curry was put in a bread bowl and served as a platter with poppadoms, kal cucumber, toasted coconut, and apple ginger chutney. There were too many grain products to go with the curry so you were getting more full from the papadoms and bread than the actual curry. The Parma Ham Pizza (115RMB) had tomato, torn buffalo mozzarella, olives, and marinated mushrooms slow-roasted in garlic and herb oil finished with slices of Parma ham, fresh rocket leaves, and a drizzle of extra-virgin olive oil. The crust of the pizza is thin, crispy and oval-shaped barely fitting the board it came on (with accompanying pizza cutter for a more hands-on experience). The marinated mushrooms were the same as the ones served as sides on the grilled mains and fell off the thin slices too easily. The Parma ham and rocket was abundant in every bite. When glo London rolls out its pizza delivery service, this would be something to look forward to. After all these mains, our party of five was absolutely stuffed.

And then came out the desserts. With all the food from the first two courses, it was a surprise there was any room for dessert at all. The Jam Roly-Poly (50RMB) is labeled as "an old-time favorite" traditionally hand-rolled sponge cake smothered in raspberry jam and covered in custard. The custard really came in a gravy boat instead of covering the layered sponge cake. It was light, the sponge cake a tad dry, and the jam flavor barely there. The Hot Chocolate Brownie (60RMB) referred to as the "ultimate pudding for chocolate lovers with a fudgy texture" and chocolate chip topping served with honeycomb ice cream and fresh whipped cream was more a dry cake than brownie. The brownie fell apart for the lack of any fudgy texture to hold it together. The chocolate flavor was actually more on the bittersweet side than too sweet, but the consistency of the brownie destroyed the whole dessert. More familiar to an English dessert palate is the Bread and Butter Pudding (50RMB) mae from baked bread pudding with raisins (none of which were present), nutmeg, and vanilla pod served warm covered with strawberry jam and custard. The bread pudding was dense and too dry as if the moist quality of a good bread pudding would soak into the bread by the custard alone. It was not. The bread pudding was baked to a golden brown and the light custard could barely hold on to its gleaming surface.

Everyone was left with stomachs bursting from all the food that was shared and consumed. Overall, the food came in large portions (aside from the starters) and was incredibly filling. The mains from the grill and especially the pizzas are better choices for eats. The drinks were plentiful as well and ranged around 60RMB, which is average for its location in the former French Concession. While being a London-based chain, the majority of the menu was more reminiscent of an American casual restaurant and respected its serving size as well. The glo London Gastro Grill brought over more the chic atmosphere infiltrating the Square Mile's modern bar scene than a gastropub ideal with more English favorites. A return visit is likely in the future to sample the brunch and Sunday roast. The simple and clean interiors of glo London with its wide dining selection would definitely attract the roving expat in Shanghai.

glo London. 1 Wulumuqi Lu (by Dongping lu) / 乌鲁木齐路1号 (近东平路), Shanghai 200031, China. Tel: +86 21 6466 6565. glolondon.com

Cha's Restaurant with Shanghai Bloggers

2011-06-26T07:32:00.000-07:00

Cha's Restaurant for "Cha canting" is the 1950's Hong Kong style diner on Sinan Road. It is a place I have heard many expat friends in Shanghai like to visit because they say the food is good and cheap and the line is worth it.

Instead of taking on the challenge of an epic wait, The Thirsty Pig (Jimmy Chang), Sugared & Spiced (Cindy Wang), and Buzz of Dining Secretary's Dumplings to Donuts met on a rainy Sunday right after opening at 11:30, beating the lunch rush. Actually, there is no actual waiting area in the restaurant, but the small entrance where patrons manage to tuck themselves into in anticipation of a table. We were seated at the back in a tight table where the menu was visible under the glass on the table. Never have being been to a Hong Kong style diner, The Thirsty Pig reassures us it looks exactly like the old diners in Hong Kong. Points for authenticity.

The food came out as quickly as it was ordered. The egg tarts did not come out until last, as is tradition. I will say that I have never tried typical Hong Kongese diner food, so bear with my newbie experience.

The Poached Chicken in Soya Sauce (50RMB) came out first. The meat was incredibly moist, tender, and cooked all the way through. The thin skin of the chicken had a slightly sweet tang to the otherwise salty dish. The chicken flavor was allowed to come clean through. The Homemade Curry with Beef Brisket and Tendon (40RMB) had a vibrant color and a strong, spiced flavor to match. It had large chunks of potato, carrot, and green pepper to compliment the incredibly tender and rich thickly-cut beef brisket. The potato and carrots were cooked all the way through and the green pepper still maintained some of its crunch. The curries at Cha's are supposed to be the household specialty. Cha's Fried Rice (32RMB) had bits of egg, cucumber, and a few shreds of salty cured meat in it. Just pour a bit of the curry sauce or more on a spoonful of fried rice and the curry flavors overpower and are carried by the rice, which simply offers a variety of textures (some crunch from the vegetables, softness from the bits of egg, and fluff from the rice) when eaten with the sauce. The Sweet and Sour Pork (32RMB) also left quite an impression with the exterior of the fried pork still being crunchy even after being on the table for some time. The Pineapple Buns (6RMB each), so named for looking like a pineapple although not containing any trace of it, were served with a giant tab of butter inserted in the middle. Seeing how much butter was put in the middle to give it a soft, buttery center to contrast with the more crunchy topping was kind of gross, but at least the pineapple buns were warm. It made it easy to spread the butter evenly, making them more satisfying.

To end the meal, we each had an egg tart (5RMB each). The crust was dense and baked just the way through tasting bland. The custard filling was bright, but a little runny. More effort was placed into maintaining an aesthetic expectation of bright-yellow custard filling instead of baking the tart the whole way through, even if it means some browning. The egg tarts at KFC are still a lot better, in my opinion.

The final bill came to 243 RMB for four people. Not too bad as we left absolutely stuffed. As we left the restaurant, the queue was taking up most of the entry space. So glad we did not have to wait through that. Cha's Restaurant is a solid choice for Hong Kongese dining and while some dishes were good, I may require a return visit to decide if it is really something I would wait in line for.

Sugared & Spiced and The Thirsty Pig going at it with their cameras
Cha's Restaurant 查餐厅. 30 Sinan Road, 1F (by Huaihai Middle Road) / 思南路30号1楼 (近淮海中路), Shanghai, People's Republic of China. 思南路30号,近淮海中路. +86 21 6093-2062. 11:00-02:00.

Sheng Sushi

2011-06-21T19:42:00.000-07:00

With most sushi places in Shanghai being priced out of the budget diner's list, Sheng Sushi (盛寿司 Shèng Shòusī) is a little sushi shack on YongKang Lu welcoming you with open arms. The tiny restaurant has only about 8 seats (4 of which are at the bar) or a tad more if the lone table outside is set up. Extra stools are pulled down from the storage space above the sushi bar to accommodate a couple more people. Most of its business seems to be geared towards home delivery, operating between 10:00-21:00.

Upon arrival, grab a seat if you are so lucky to find one or prepare to queue. Take away is also an option, though there are not many nearby spots favorable for sitting to eat. The menu is listed both in Chinese and English with descriptions and explanations of its rolls, most of which are named after major U.S. cities and some of which are misspelled e.g. "Salt Lack City." The menu could have been copied straight from a Californian sushi joint take away menu that made its way to Shanghai. A lot of the rolls include some aspect that does not require a variety of fresh raw fish like tempura, cooked shrimp, crab, cucumber, or eel, which is broiled right in front of you. Considering this, it may be the reason that the costs at Sheng Sushi are kept down. Also on the menu are ramen, hand rolls, sashimi bowls, maki, and various other sides.

The Phoenix Roll has cucumber and crab and each piece (8 in total) is topped with a generous sliver of salmon, a round of cucumber, and roe. The whole thing barely fits into your mouth. The salmon sashimi (25RMB) was five thick slices of salmon served with raw radish and tasted fresh, not being rubbery or taking on a sheen from fish left out too long. The bulk of the other roll shared had tempura and a heavy drizzling of sauce. The rolls are big and surprisingly filling. Two rolls, salmon sashimi, and draft sake cost a total of 152RMB.

The sushi and its offerings are no frills with several choices of Californian-style rolls that are not commonly offered in other establishments serving sushi (aside from the classic "Californian roll"). While not being exceptionally fancy or amazing, the sushi is great for its price and the quality is a lot better than you would expect for a budget sushi place.

Check out the take away menu below:

Sheng Sushi. 63 Yongkang Lu by Xiangyang Lu / 永康路63号，近嘉善路, Shanghai, 200031, China. Delivery: 10:00-21:00. Tel: 13816418701.

Pho Deluxe at Pho 88

2011-06-04T23:42:00.000-07:00

Yet another pho restaurant has hit the Shanghai scene. Still having hope for pho in Shanghai, I had to try it. The reviews on CityWeekend seemed promising, though have apparently been taken down due to review spamming when I checked the link whilst writing today. Anyway, I went to Pho 88 on a weekday during lunch. Pho 88 is located right above Tanya Mantabei in its former second floor space. Upon entering during peak lunch hours, the restaurant was completely empty and not one other patron came into the restaurant during my leisurely stay.

I went for the Pho Deluxe Course, suitable for one person, which is one bowl of pho dac biet and cha gio or one house special pho with rare steak, tripe, well-done flank, brisket, tendon, and beef meatballs plus one deep-fried spring roll for 48RMB. Or, for basically 10RMB more, you get a single fried spring roll, which came with a weak serving of greens to add to the pho. Off the menu, simpler versions of pho with a smaller meat variety go for 29RMB.

The first taste of the broth showed promise. The flavor was rich and not oily or salty, but something was missing. The broth could have benefitted from a few more hours of stewing or adding more or better quality bones to enhance the depth of its flavor. Too bad there were not more typical leafy greens to throw in the soup to try to compesate for its flavor short-comings. The noodles were not overcooked and were pentiful. There was also a good amount of meat in the large bowl, probably from all the variety it is supposed to have. Though, the quality of the meat was average, though the rare steak was the only decent piece in the bowl. The meatballs were flavorless and reminiscent of a frozen, store-bought variety.

Pho 88 should benefit better from putting more effort into its broth and quality of meat than marketing tactics reeking of review pumping.

Pho 88. 2nd Floor, 581 Fuxing Zhong Lu (by Ruijin Yi Lu), Shanghai, China

Origin in Tianzifang

2011-05-26T00:07:00.000-07:00

Among the numerous restaurants and shops in Tianzifang, Origin strives to set itself apart with "seasonally fresh cuisine." It sits along one of the busier lanes shooting off Jianguo Zhong Lu with two small outdoor tables on either side of the ground floor entrance on a nice day. The space is airy and bright making use of large exposure to natural light. There is a bar to sit at and few inside tables on the ground floor with more seating on the second floor as well as a small outdoor area. On the third floor, there is also a very small area that may be reserved or taken for a more intimate affair. On warm days, the windows are easily opened to allow for a natural circulation of air instead of cranking up the air-conditioning unit. The whole ambiance expressed the ideals of the cafe wanting to get back to the basics of what is fresh and natural.

Lunch time and brunch seemed busy with people passing through Tianzifang enjoying anything remotely relating to warm, temperate weather in Shanghai. The cafe was filled up quickly and easily. Service seemed to be a bit slow as the window into the kitchen revealed only one guy taking care of everything. The service staff at least tries to be helpful when they can.

Out of the sandwiches, the sweet potato and goat cheese sandwich (48RMB) on foccacia with arugula jumped out. It was a mix between sweet potato mash or really soft sweet potato on delicious bread and a thin, minute spread of goat cheese. This disappointed the expectation there would be a nice, thick layer of tart goat cheese to offset the sugary sweet potato. The fresh arugula and sliced tomato was not already in the sandwich, which was to be assembled at the diner's discretion. The continental breakfast was filling with its assortment of toast, eggs, roasted baby tomatoes, yogurt, cold cuts, jam, butter, and brie. The filling parts of the breakfast were the pieces of toast and large cup of yogurt and skimpy on the eggs and cold cuts.

Also unfotunately small was the sausage plate (about 98RMB). The link of sausage was unfortunately small (the photo may deceive you of its size) as well were the two weak slices of streaky bacon sitting atop some potatoes. The eggs were alright. The breakfast plate also lacked toast to carry the meat and eggs on. Its cost definitely did not match what was presented on the plate. The banana pancakes showed some promise with a full saucer of syrup. Each pancake was large and fluffy with bits of real banana in the batter (more would have been better!!!). The plate also came with a large serving of yogurt and a few pieces of fresh fruit. The smoked salmon eggs benedict (at a whopping 98RMB...It turns out the online menu has not been updated in any way to show price changes) showed some promise. The base bread was amazing, thick, soft, and crusty. If English muffins were not available, this bread would have been the next best thing. The servings of smoked salmon were on the skimpy side, but the addition of greens was much appreciated to bring a fresh zing as well as color to the dish. The eggs were nicely poached and gooey on the inside, though close to being set. The hollandaise sauce was buttery and on the thin side, leaving a small wet coating on the poached egg. Each eggs benedict had 2-3 capers on top. The dish has so much promise, but the let-down of a scant slice of smoked salmon and runny hollandaise sauce makes the smoked salmon eggs benedict fall flat.

The smoothies and freshly-made juices were very good. The pear juice was served cool and was not over-sweetened. The papaya smoothie (36RMB) was thick and large. The fruit was not underripe and the smoothie not too icy. In this regard, Origin is using the fruits of the season.

Origin in Tianzifang has a great atmosphere for a fresh bite to eat or drink. Like most places in the immediate vicinity, the prices are a bit high for the little that you get as rental prices in Tianzifang are on the rise.

Origin. House 39, Lane 155 JianGuo Zhong Lu (by RuiJin Lu), 建国中路155弄39号（近瑞金路）, Shanghai, People's Republic of China. www.originsh.com.

The Alchemist Brunch Smoked Salmon Eggs Benedict

2011-05-21T23:10:00.000-07:00

Brunching around Shanghai gives you an opportunity to see what is trendy and popular in main choices. The smoked salmon twist on classic eggs benedict is revealing itself as a hot brunch item.

A friend had recommended the smoked salmon eggs benedict at The Alchemist, so a visit was made for the sole reason of trying it. The smoked salmon eggs benedict (98RMB) came with asparagus and a roasted tomato half. However, as good as the eggs benedict looked, the overall execution fell flat. The base of the eggs benedict was not even an English muffin, but a piece of untoasted sliced bread cut into a circular shape. The smoked salmon atop the bread was well-portioned for the serving. The poached egg was slightly overdone to the point that the egg yolks were set, though not cooked all the way through. Actually, during this particular visit, all the eggs that should have ooey gooey centers had set yolks compared to the first visit for The Alchemist weekend brunch. The hollandaise sauce was lovely and light, though personal tastes for hollandaise in warmer weather would prefer a bit more lemon for a fresher zing. In any case, the smoked salmon eggs benedict showed promise. If only the disappointing cut-out of sliced bread was replaced with something more worthy of carrying smoked salmon, hollandaise, and runny poached egg.

One item of note...With the higher cost of food in Shanghai, this dish has gone from 68RMB to 98RMB across the board ie in several other restaurants. What exactly is driving the price so high? Smoked salmon eggs benedict is definitely worth a weekend brunch indulgence, but for that high of a price tag?

The Alchemist. Sinan Mansions, Block 32, 45 Sinan Lu, near Fuxing Zhong Lu 思南路45号32号楼，近复兴西路. Shanghai, China.

McFlurry International - China 3

2011-05-19T02:19:00.000-07:00

Màidāngláo (麦当劳) has a new 10RMB McFlurry (麦旋风, mài xuànfēng) in time for spring. 法式布蕾 (fǎ shì bù lěi) translates to "French brûlée." Behind the image of the actual McFlurry is one of a caramel custard or flan. Note that crème brûlée is commonly served in the ramekin the custard is cooked in before sugar is added on top and broiled to form a crunchy, caramelized topping. The actual "French brûlée" McFlurry is vanilla soft-serve with Oreo cookie and butterscotch. The actual flavor combination would have done better with caramel instead of butterscotch to achieve the taste of browned sugar. Though, the texture of the crisp topping is hinted at by the bites you take into the cookie while tasting the butterscotch. Creamy frozen yogurt carries the smoothness of a custard.

McFlurry International - Seoul Incheon International Airport

2011-05-04T07:09:00.000-07:00

The transfer and international terminal at Seoul Incheon International Airport has more than creature comforts for transit passengers and cultural shows to remind those never leaving the airport what they are missing. There is also a McCafe selling fancy McFlurries for 1700.00KRW (about US$1.58). The Berry Choc McFlurry seemed similar to the version first tried in Harbin with vanilla soft-serve mixed with Oreo cookie and berry flavor. The girl behind the counter served an adequate portion of soft-serve, a heap of Oreo cookie crumble, and the "berry" flavor. It was well-mixed in the McDonald's McFlurry machine before being handed over. Opening the lid, the McFlurry appeared to come up to almost the top of the container, a more accepted portion than the half-filled ones in China. The Berry Choc McFlurry did not have that artificial after-taste and seemed to allude to a more mixed-berry flavor than sticking to any one particular berry. It was fruity and tangy with a nice chocolate crunch. Yummy.

Mushroom and Pearl Barley Soup

2011-04-29T06:41:00.000-07:00

Continuing the soup trend, the heavier and heartier mushroom and pearl barley soup is quite filling. It added some grains to a diet being overwhelmed with creamy, hot soups, the comfort of winter (at least mine). A lot of pearl barley soup recipes called for thyme, which was not easily found in the fresh markets of Shanghai. However, the bulk of the soup ingredients are readily available.

Instead of using one type of mushroom, an assortment of common white, shiitake, and enoki mushrooms were used for its flavors and textures. Most other recipes also called for about half the amount of pearl barley, but if you want something more grainy and filling, a full cup should do fine. More stock is needed with a larger amount of pearl barley as the grains seem to soak up all the liquid. The soup will thicken naturally from all the starch coating the pearl barley, but when using smaller amounts of pearl barley, adding a teaspoon of flour to the vegetables before adding the stock is an option. Considering pre-made vegetable stock was not on hand, grained vegetable bouillon was added to the pot to season the vegetables and grains before adding water.

This soup is easily served as a main course.

Mushroom and Pearl Barley Soup
2 Tablespoons butter
1 lb mushrooms
1 large carrot, chopped
1 large celery stalk, chopped
1/2 large onion, chopped
1 cup pearl barley, rinsed
8 cups vegetable broth
1 Tablespoon mixed herbs (dried)

Melt butter in pot over medium-high heat. Add mushrooms, carrot, celery, and onion. Sauté for about 10 minutes and then add pearl barley. Continue cooking until vegetables about to brown, about 10 minutes more. Add herbs and allow flavors to release, another minute more. Gradually add broth and bring to a boil, stirring frequently. Reduce heat and simmer until barley is tender and soup thickens. Season with salt and pepper to taste.

Weekend Brunch at The Alchemist

2011-04-19T07:17:00.001-07:00

Spring means temperate weather, sunny days, and the hopes that it will last a while before the wretched heat in Shanghai. Popular for its molecular gastronomy cocktails, Kelley Lee decided to expand the appeal of The Alchemist by offering a brunch starting on a particularly lovely early spring day. Inside tables were void of people as most diners opted to sit outside to soak in the sun. The brunch menu featured 3 set specials: Brunch Set A - 1 brunch item with choice of drink +30 RMB; Brunch Set B - 1 brunch item with choice of drink & brunch buffet +50 RMB; and Brunch Set C - brunch buffet with choice of drink 100RMB. The drink choices include coffee, tea, juice, sodas, sparkling Chandon, mimosa, red wine, white wine, Bloody Mary, and cocktail of the day. Attentive staff was on hand to take your food and beverage order and make sure everyone was comfortable sitting outside. It was the first run of the brunch, so we just must be honest with the experience.

It did not take a while for the food to come out. Each table had a bread basket to pick at in the meantime which had a few slices of white bread, squares of rosemary and olive foccacia, and a sweet muffin. If you ever tried the brunch at Azul, the muffin looked and tasted like it came from the same supplier. If the brunch buffet was part of the set, you could walk inside and help yourself to the plates of Mediterranean-influenced antipasti, meats, fruits, and salads. The yogurt served at the buffet came with unfiltered honey. However, the runny yogurt tasted like the regular plain yogurt you can find at the local supermarket or convenience store and was not anything special.

A few brunch and non-brunch items were ordered. The Farm (58 RMB) was a dish of grilled asparagus, slow cooked farm egg, parmesan cheese, and hollandaise sauce. You broke the yolk of the runny egg (the yolk was a bit more solid than gooey) to mix with the parmesan and hollandaise, creating a rich sauce that went well with the crispy asparagus stalks. The dish was really wet, but at least the bread basket had pieces of country bread to soak it all up. This item was on the small side to really be considered a brunch main. The Soft Scramble on Toast (88 RMB) was soft scrambled eggs with fresh herbs & roasted bell pepper-tomato coulis with a side of chorizo sausage and potatoes. The scrambled eggs were definitely not wet and cooked through all the way. The combination of flavors was comforting and slightly on the sweet side. The chorizo was mild and tasty, though the potato was underwhelming and slightly undercooked. The Caramelized banana-wheat pancakes (48 RMB) were wheat pancakes made with toasted wheat germ and served with coconut cream. This was a highlight breakfast item. The caramelized bananas tasted like it was cooked with a good knob of butter and some rum, which made this terrific sauce to go with the pancakes so maple syrup was almost unnecessary. No one could really taste the coconut in the cream, but there were enough bananas, cream, syrup, and pancakes to create several perfect bites where every component was represented. The Croque Madame (98 RMB) had thick sliced grilled ciabatta, jamon iberico, fried farm eggs, bechamel, and Gruyere. Cutting into the egg, the gooey yolks spilled over in this bright orange mess over the entire croque madame. The jamon iberico was a little difficult to cut into, but offered a nice salty bite to the dish. Burgers were also an evident feature on the brunch menu with The Alchemist Burger (138 RMB) being the most decadent. The large burger is made with 100% Australian ground beef layered with seared foie gras, caramelized onion, truffle-balsamic glaze, and crispy bacon and served with skinny fries with braised oxtail gravy.

Some criticisms include some confusion on the wording of the set menu deals. For example, for Brunch Set B, would you pay the price for the brunch item and drink and an additional 50RMB for the brunch buffet OR is the drink and brunch buffet equal to 50RMB? With the way the bill was printed, it also looked quite confusing. Perhaps better wording could have cleared this up. Also, individual pricing of each drink was not listed on the menu, as if to suggest diners are not mindful about the costs associated with the drink. The brunch at The Alchemist was a great value for standard Western brunch fare. It was also nice to lounge on cushioned garden furniture to digest after the meal. A return visit is a must to try the smoked salmon eggs benedict to see how they stand up next to the plate at Kabb.

The Alchemist. Sinan Mansions, Block 32, 45 Sinan Lu, near Fuxing Zhong Lu 思南路45号32号楼，近复兴西路. Shanghai, China.

Apothecary Sunday Dinner Fried Chicken

2011-04-10T20:24:00.000-07:00

If the classic cocktails with an inventive twist are not enough to get lure you into Apothecary, then perhaps the American southern inspired Creole cuisine will. Apothecary came down to jazz up Shanghai from its original location in Beijing with its in-house-made touches and quadruple distilled ice cubes. It made its home in Sinan Mansions and is not to be confused with the nearby Alchemist, which specializes in molecular gastronomic drinks. Apothecary tries to make everything that can possibly be made in-house from its breads (still in works) down to the bitters used in its drinks. The front entrance displays bitters and tequila batches (for its Mi Amante cocktails) curing in jars that indicate when it was made. Just in its soft opening, Apothecary already started its Sunday dinner featuring fried chicken, biscuits, and coleslaw. The menu claimed in writing that the kitchen at Apothecary will remain open until 01:00. That guarantees you can get your fill of bar bites while enjoying one of their several concoctions.

The service staff is still in training, but at least eager to please and not afraid to ask the managers for advice on bettering their work (as witnessed). The managers were also apologetic about the current state of their service and were eager to ensure that they aim to improve service significantly in the near future. After ordering a dirty vodka martini and receiving a delicious gin and tonic in return, management gave the gin and tonic as a complimentary drink and reason for pardon while the dirty vodka martini was being prepared. Their consideration also guaranteed that waste was not made!

The dinner that was supposed to be centered on country fried chicken became a dinner sandwiched by bacon, which is cut and cured in-house. Greens with poached egg and maple bacon (50RMB) included the description of "mash the egg on top and leer at the runny yolk oozing out of the fried poached egg melting into the baconified greens. It's rather obscene...obscenely good." It was pretty good. The greens had a bit of stalk in them, a tad leafy, and cut into bite-sized portions. It remained crunchy and light to balance the saltiness of the thickly-sliced bacon. After puncturing the lightly poached egg and letting the yolk run out, the egg was tossed with the greens and bacon, almost visibly disappearing in the dish. The combination was excellent: salty, thick bacon you can really chew on, crunchy cooked greens for a fresh bite, and a luscious coating from the yolk. If only there was more bacon...

The reason for dining at Apothecary on a Sunday evening is the fried chicken special only available on Sundays. Currently, half a chicken with 2 biscuits and coleslaw is priced at 100RMB while a whole chicken with 4 biscuits and coleslaw comes at 200RMB. A whole, large organic chicken arrived on a massive plate, though pre-cut to fry appropriately, and on a second plate the biscuits and red cabbage coleslaw. The chicken is prepared by brining in advance before battering and frying. From the look of the chicken cuts on the plate, the deeply brown whole chicken was there, but cut in pairs of wing, breast, and drumstick pieces so it was easy to share and divide the bird in half. It is encouraged to eat the fried chicken with your hands instead of being polite about it with a fork and knife. The batter was simply seasoned with generous amounts of black and white pepper to allow the natural flavors of the chicken to come through. It was light not weighing down the exterior of the chicken yet incredibly crunchy and, at times, you would get bites of pure, crispy, delicious fried batter. The meat is cooked all the way to the bone and moist throughout with particularly supple and plump breasts. There was enough chicken to easily satisfy four diners or leave two absolutely stuffed. Management informed us that they will be soon switching to a new supplier of organic chicken that apparently gives its birds a special wheat feed that imparts a slightly sweeter taste to the chicken meat. This new bird will tack on 50RMB to the current price of the whole chicken dinner.

The biscuits had a texture more of a popover than a buttermilk biscuit. It looked like batter was dropped in small muffin tins and allowed to "pop over" giving the biscuit an airy, though somewhat chewy texture. It was incredibly buttery, but being more of a popover, throwing some fresh herbs in the batter would have helped balance out the peppery taste of the fried chicken. The red cabbage coleslaw was not mayonnaise-based and tasted very sweet.

The end of the dinner sandwiched with bacon was a dessert of candied maple bacon. The idea is thrilling as candied bacon implies both sweet and salty in one meaty bite. Or maybe it was from watching too many episodes of Epic Meal Time that the excitement of bacon became paramount. The thick-cut candied bacon was served on a plate roughly chopped to bite-sized chunks. There was a thin layer of what seemed to be granulated sugar on the bacon, as if freshly fried bacon was dredged in a vat of granulated sugar to candy. Whatever sugar clung to the bacon pieces were probably there from absorbing all that pork fat. The texture from this felt a bit gritty in your mouth. For some reason, my expectation was that the candied portion would basically be cooked bacon covered in a layer of sugar heated at least to a low-ball stage so the bacon would shine from the sugaring and not grease. Regardless, it tasted wonderfully salty, sweet, and smoky.

Just as the drink menu provokes exploration, the Creole-style food should also not be ignored. It will be interesting to see what in-house creations are made as this dining trend is also getting attention from Austin Hu at Madison. Summer should also be favorable to Apothecary as patrons can enjoy their drinks on the small fourth floor patio overlooking Sinan Mansions.

Apothecary. Bldg 2, 4/F, Sinan Mansions, Lane 507 Fuxing Zhong Lu (by Chongqing Lu), 复兴中路507弄2号4楼 (近重庆路), Shanghai, People's Republic of China.

Senegalese Curried Carrot Soup

2011-04-05T06:56:00.000-07:00

Less is more. Or with less you can make more. This Senegalese Curried Carrot Soup seemed relatively easy to make with the most complicated component being the blender. The number of ingredients is not a lot so selecting quality products makes a better soup. I am not so sure exactly what makes this soup "Senegalese" aside from the addition of good quality curry powder or the combination with milk. In any case, the soup seemed extremely easy to make and would produce a standout result that would make people wonder what really went into it.

With this recipe, I lacked the vegetable stock and bouillon to create vegetable stock, so a bit more curry powder was used before adding water. The flavor of the curry powder is spicy and strong enough to overwhelm the flavors of a vegetable stock. The block of butter I used was purchased in bulk so I may have cut off a 4 tablespoon chunk instead of 6, but even with less butter the vegetables still got coated and were not left too dry in the pan. The addition of milk to the soup gives it a creamy, cooler taste and smoother texture. The resulting carrot soup had an excellent kick from the curry used (and some heat as well) and brought more excitement to what would have been an ordinary soup.

Senegalese Curried Carrot Soup (adapted) serves 4
6 tablespoons unsalted butter
1 small onion, finely chopped
3 cups roughly chopped carrots
3 cups vegetable stock
2 teaspoon good-quality, fresh curry powder
1.5 cups milk
Salt and pepper to taste
Thick yogurt as garnish (optional)

In a medium saucepan, melt butter over medium heat. Add onions and carrots and cook until onions are translucent and carrots are almost soft, about 15 minutes. Sprinkle curry powder over vegetables and cook, stirring constantly, a few minutes more. Add stock and bring to a boil and then simmer until carrots are completely soft. Transfer to a blender or food processor and puree until smooth, in batches if necessary. Return to saucepan and whisk in milk. Heat the soup until a simmer and salt and pepper to taste. Serve in bowls and garnish with yogurt, if desired. May be served hot or cold.

Morton's The Steakhouse Happy Hour - Volume 3

2011-04-04T22:51:00.000-07:00

Let it be noted that the complimentary filet mignon sandwiches at Morton's The Steakhouse happy hour in Lujiazui are no longer served in fours on plates. Servers now come around with a large silver platter loaded with them. At first, one could believe that the bar staff has acknowledged most people were consuming these sandwiches en masse, but it allows patrons not to break off more than they can chew. Each person is given an individual plate on which to place the one, two, or three sandwiches removed from the silver platter. This method prevents waste of washing numerous plates and allowing individuals to dictate how much they would like to eat. The best places to sit for maximum filet mignon sandwich exposure are along the direct exit lines from the kitchen. Along these lines, the attention of the server is gained first and the surrounding tables either get what is (or not) left on the platter or will have to wait for the next wave of filet mignon sandwiches.

Morton's The Steakhouse. Shop 15-16, 4/F, Shanghai IFC Mall, 8 Century Avenue, Pudong New Area, Shanghai 200120, People's Republic of China. Tel: +86 21 6075 8888. www.mortons.com

McFlurry International - China 2

2011-03-30T04:26:00.000-07:00

Is there a significant difference between the McDonald's in Harbin and Shanghai (both are in China)? At least the quality? There should not be. It is McDonald's - taste that you can count on which makes you keep lovin' it. McDonald's in Shanghai is offering two McFlurry (麦旋风 mài xuànfēng or "McDonald's whirlwind") flavors: strawberry with Oreo and chocolate with Oreo. For 10RMB, the McFlurry strawberry with Oreo bits was a scant serving filling barely half the cup. The proportion of strawberry to Oreo to soft serve was appropriate, but the flavor was not. The strawberry flavor tasted a bit musky and artificial. Even after several martinis at Morton's The Steakhouse, the taste of the McFlurry was still left a skunk-like aftermath in your mouth. With such great experiences with berry flavors in northern China and the Balkans, one could only wonder where the strawberries were sourced from.

Morton's The Steakhouse Happy Hour - Volume 2

2011-03-30T04:00:00.000-07:00

The happy hour at Morton's The Steakhouse was so good the first time that it is no surprise another visit was made. Word must have gotten out to the Shanghaiers because the bar area was absolutely packed shortly after the happy hour started at 17:00.

This time seats were taken at the bar to watch the bartenders in action and perhaps get a quicker order of those 120RMB plates of filet mignon sandwiches. The best thing is the sandwich plates were seemingly unlimited. All you have to do was smile and ask the server or bartender to put one more order in for you and the next thing you know, another plate of delicious beef between four fluffy, buttery warm buns with a bit of horseradish sauce were smiling back at you. The "Mortinis" were still tasty and made to order. The bartenders this time did not ask if you would like regular or blue cheese olives in your Mortinis as the servers did the first time. However, they still heeded your requests for the right olive and if they forgot, you got another toothpick-full added to your drink.

The kitchen had taken a little more care in cooking the filet mignon for the sandwiches. The meat was still rare, but at times, it looked like the cuts were on the verge of being cooked medium-rare. At least the awkward chewiness of the meat was avoided so as not to interrupt the flow of the happy hour. Mmm...so good. After about three 38RMB martinis each and multiple sandwiches, the happy hour leaves one feeling full, and happy with a relatively unscathed wallet.

Morton's The Steakhouse. Shop 15-16, 4/F, Shanghai IFC Mall, 8 Century Avenue, Pudong New Area, Shanghai 200120, People's Republic of China. Tel: +86 21 6075 8888. www.mortons.com

Chewy Sugar Cookies #2

2011-03-21T02:13:00.000-07:00

Browsing through baking recipes online, it was determined that in China "complicated" i.e. "expensive" ingredients should be avoided. The basics are cheap: flour, butter, sugar, baking soda, eggs, etc. "Complicated" ingredients are also hard to find and expensive at popular markets that cater to Westerners like City Shop. Good vanilla extract is always worth the monetary sacrifice.

Sugar cookies are a guaranteed bet on a minimal use of ingredients. It is down to a good recipe to produce a good cookie. These cookies are a little chewy and a little cake-y with a crisp edge. Its simplicity and variety of textures made it a hit.

Some substitutes were made. Instead of 1/4 cup of light brown sugar, 1/8 cup dark brown sugar + 1/8 cup granulated white sugar was used. The eggs in Shanghai also tend to be slightly smaller than the "large" eggs sold in markets in the United States and London.

Chewy Sugar Cookies #2 (adapted)
1/2 cup butter, at room temperature
1/2 cup granulated sugar
1/4 cup light brown sugar
2 teaspoons vanilla extract
1 large egg
1 1/2 cup all-purpose unbleached flour
1/2 teaspoon salt
1/4 teaspoon baking soda
1 cup coarse sugar

Pre-heat oven to 375 degrees F. Cream together butter and sugars. Beat in vanilla extract and then the egg. Beat in flour, salt, and baking soda. Using a cookie scoop or rounded teaspoons, drop balls of dough into coarse sugar to cover them. Place sugar-coated cookie dough balls on baking sheet about 1 1/2 inches apart. Do not press the balls down. Bake 8-10 minutes, turning pan mid-way through baking.

Tomato Basil Soup

2011-03-21T01:20:00.000-07:00

Although it is already March, winter seems to be dragging on, which leads to the comfort of the day: soup. With the purchase of a new and now broken blender (after less than 5 uses!!!), soups are the best use for it during winter months.

This Nordstrom Tomato Basil soup was eye-catching, particularly by the mention of carrots giving the soup a particular sweetness. Knowing that this recipe was written for a Western audience, more so in the States, the predicted outcome of the soup was unclear due to the size of the vegetables sold in Shanghai.

There was also some speculation on the recipe calling for heavy cream when only whipping cream is available in storage boxes. Whipping cream has less fat than heavy cream, 30-36% milk fat and 38-40% milk fat, respectively. The USDA regulates how much fat must be in certain dairy products sold in the US. What they are called has to do with fat content, not additives like carageenan. By law, to be called "heavy cream," a cream must have at least 36% milkfat and can have more. "Light whipping cream" must have at least 30% but less than 36% milkfat. "Light cream" (sometimes called "coffee cream") must have at least 18% milkfat, but less than 30%. "Half and Half" must have at least 10.5% milkfat, but less than 18%. The difference between using heavy cream and whipping cream in this recipe differed by a few milkfat percentages, but not so much to completely alter the soup. This is cooking, not baking.

The soup turned out to be really warming and slightly sweet. Fresh basil was used instead of dried.

Tomato Basil Soup (adapted)
3 Tablespoons extra virgin olive oil
2 large carrots peeled and diced(mine yielded about 450g)
1 small to medium onion, sliced
3 cans of 400g peeled tomatoes
2 cups water or chicken or vegetable stock
1 small bunch of fresh basil, finely chopped (reserve some of the fresh basil for garnish) or 1 Tablespoon dried basil
250ml or 1 cup heavy cream

In a heavy saucepan, heat olive oil on medium-high heat until shimmering. Add carrots and onions and cook until softened, about 10 minutes. Add basil and cook until vegetables are completely soft, about 5 minutes more. Add tomatoes and liquid and bring to a boil. Reduce the heat and allow to simmer for 30-45 minutes. Allow the soup to cool somewhat before puréeing in a blender or food processor, doing so in batches if necessary. Return the soup to the pot and add cream over low heat, until desired texture is reached and the soup is heated through. Salt and pepper to taste.

Jimmy's Kitchen

2011-03-19T23:56:00.000-07:00

Beginning 87 years ago and finally coming back to Shanghai after 63 years is Jimmy's Kitchen, China's oldest Western restaurant with a selection of British and Continental classics. At the invitation through a connection, we were invited to attend a tasting at the restaurant before its soft opening. The entire meal was free and all we had to do was give feedback on the food and bring our own wine for the meal. How can you say no? The email indicated it was a fine dining establishment that lingered on timeless glamor. Jimmy's Kitchen is located on the first floor of the Old Jin Jiang Hotel.

Going up the stairs of the Jin Jiang Hotel, the restaurant shows little indication of its existence aside from strong gold lettering on dark wood paneling. The wine storage room is the first sight upon arrival, glowing blue. The restaurant has a timeless ambiance with its dark wood panels, leather booths, and elegant decor. There is a small bar to wait at with a view of the beef aging room. Peering through the thick glass, large slabs of meat sit on racks just waiting to be cut. The staff are warm, greeting you like old friends, taking your coat, showing you your seat, and being aware of every detail to make the experience more comfortable and accommodating.

The server informed us that anything on the menu was available for ordering except for the Wagyu beef and lobster. The oysters were also out of stock on this particular evening. No matter though. The menu is full of options to choose from, including an assortment of curries (none of which were tried on this particular visit), meat for the broiler, and Jimmy's classic dishes. The Baked Alaska on the dessert menu also seemed to be tempting although it was already assumed by this point there would be little stomach space for something sweet. The host reminded everyone to send feedback later instead of immediately after each course as not to interfere with the enjoyment of the Jimmy's Kitchen dining experience.

One of the soups the server and host recommended was the lobster bisque (68RMB) with garlic baguette croutons, "rouille" sauce, and Gruyere cheese. The roux used to thicken the bisque was well-browned, giving bisque a deep brown color. However, the actual bisque was not thick at all despite the splash of sherry. It still had a chalky taste from the flour. The best part of the bisque were the little chunks of lobster hidden at the bottom of the bowl. The traditional French onion soup (58RMB) topped with country bread and melted Gruyere cheese was really good. The crouton and bread pieces were abundant, soaking up almost all of the soup. It would have been better with a bit more broth so it actually looked like a soup. The broth had a rich, deep flavor and the cheese melted beautifully in the soup. The caesar salad (68RMB)of romaine lettuce, candied smoked bacon, anchovy dressing and shaved parmesan looked better than it tasted. The dressing lacked the nuttiness that anchovy is supposed to convey, perhaps from its minimal presence. Dressing usually makes the salad and brings together its parts, but not in this case despite the excellence of its individual parts. The gourmet salad (118RMB) consisted of mixed lettuce, duck leg and gizzard confit, smoked duck breast, duck "foie gras" mousse, roasted pine nuts, shaved black truffle with sherry and port wine vinaigrette. The salad featured more meat decadence than salad, making the dish a bit too salty although its presence alone was impressive. The individual meat parts were rich, fatty, and luscious so a salad leaf lightly coated in vinaigrette cut into the heaviness with a fresh bite.

The baked escargots (118RMB) with garlic and herb butter served on creamy mash were really tender and carried the strong flavors of the garlic and herb butter. The creamy mash they sat on was also really smooth and incredibly buttery. Some parts of the mash had great caramelization from cooking with the escargots creating a nice texture. The home-cured Norwegian salmon (128RMB) was thinly sliced with vodka, honey, pommery mustard, capers, fresh dill and Spanish onion accompanied with horseradish sour cream and toast. If you took the end of the salmon slice between the tines on the fork, you could roll up the entire piece including the onion to create a magnificent bite with all the flavors sitting on one fork. The horseradish sour cream and toast were almost unnecessary because the cured salmon was already good on its own. A thin layer of horseradish cream did give the salmon some heat despite it being a cold starter. The Baked Seafood "Vol Au Vent" (138RMB) with shrimps, scallops, mussels and clams in white wine and saffron cream and green asparagus were slightly sweet. The pieces of shrimp and mollusks were large and not overcooked. The white wine and saffron cream was light and the flavor not too strong, highlighting the seafood flavors. The classic poached prawn cocktail (128RMB) with iceberg shred, apple julienne, crisp cucumber, tomato Armagnac, and aioli. The prawn tails were quite large and the salad was crisp and fresh. We also ordered the pan-seared foie gras (148RMB), which had a crusty caramelization layer on the outside. The foie gras was lovely, smooth, and buttery easily melting in your mouth, though the piece showed hints of being in the pan a tad too long. If foie gras is cooking on a pan for a significant amount of time, it may shrink and melt away altogether.

The highlights of the night were the selections from the broiler. The cut of meat is broiled to a desired temperature and came with a potato and vegetable side order of your choice as well as a selection of sauces. After the steaks came out, a server arrived with a tray of sauces and mustards and asked if diners wanted to try more from the selection. The tenderloin (338RMB) was very tender and juicy as was the New York cut strip loin (308RMB). The mashed potatoes were seasoned with white pepper, which I am not particularly a fan of. The sauteed mushrooms were really good and meaty. The green peppercorn sauce tasted more like a standard A1 steak sauce being slightly sweet and not so peppery. The truffle sauce and blue cheese cream were both thick and flavorful, complimenting the steak well. The fish dishes were not very impressive. Both the lemon sole and salmon were slightly overcooked and a bit dry. This could be due to the fish sitting under the heat lamps in order for all the main courses to be served at one time to the table. The flavors were there, but the fish texture was not. Jimmy's Classic Corn-Fed Chicken Kiev (148RMB) filled with garlic and herb butter served with mashed potato and seasoned vegetables was also well-received. The crunchy outside and moist meat absorbed the garlic and herb flavors nicely.

Dessert was also another highlight of the night. After all the savory dishes, food comas were setting in and espressos were ordered. The espressos came out first and were brewed nicely with that creamy top that a good espresso should have. Jimmy's baked Alaska (suitable for 2)(108RMB) was huge and could have easily fed four people. Cake, vanilla and strawberry ice cream were encased in fluffy meringue dotted in fresh berries and was set aflame upon arrival to the table. The edges of the meringue browned and emitted a toasty aroma. Warm on the outside and cool on the inside, the baked Alaska was light and delicious. Jimmy's Famous Satellite (88RMB) is vanilla ice cream encased in Gran Marnier soaked sponge lightly battered and fried with vanilla anglaise and raspberry coulis. It looked like a giant fried dough ball and was also set aflame upon arrival. These desserts both had a contrast of hot and cold parts and were both light and satisfying. The house-made lemon tart (68RMB) with campari and blood orange granita was average. The lemon flavor had a candied taste and was reminiscent of the lemon meringue tarts served at university campuses in the United States, but with a firmer consistency. The blood orange granita that went with it tasted like medicine. The warm chocolate fondant (78RMB) with lava flowing center and pistachio ice cream was popular with the ladies at the table. It was nice to see a "molten chocolate" dessert paired with something other than a raspberry or berry-based sauce, sorbet, or ice cream. The pistachio ice cream was nutty and not too sweet. There was no indication where the pistachio ice cream was sourced from, but I am curious to know. The passion fruit and coconut meringue parfait glace (68RMB) with a rainbow tropical fruit ceviche was light and creamy. The fruit ceviche was probably the best part of this dish. The passion fruit flavor was quite subtle and could have had a stronger presence.

After the meal, everyone was very happy to be invited to this tasting while at the same time groaning from full bellies. The meal had some hits and misses, but this is to be expected as Jimmy's Kitchen is trying to perfect its menu before its soft and grand openings. The management was eager to hear the feedback both good and bad, which shows an understanding that there is always room for improvement. The dinner was a nice, long evening lasting from 19:30 to 23:30. As the dining room was completely full and service was running a bit slow, there was plenty of time for lots of wine and good conversation. The final bill without drinks was considerably more expensive than your average Western meal in Shanghai, but there are definitely some items worth checking out as well as an ambiance that made some diners feel like they landed in an episode of Mad Men. We are all looking forward to seeing how Jimmy's Kitchen progresses after its opening.

Jimmy's Kitchen. 1/F, Jin Jiang Hotel (Cathay Building), 59 Maoming Nan Lu (by Changle Lu), 茂名南路59号1楼 (近长乐路). Shanghai 200020, People's Republic of China.

Pi Day Pear Tart

2011-03-14T20:50:00.000-07:00

3.1415926535...March 14th has not been the same since the induction of Pi Day. Although it is a mathematical constant, Pi Day is also a great excuse to bake a pie (or tart). Given the limited availability of reasonably priced goods, the Pi Day pie / tart had to be made with limited ingredients to produce the finest result. Also, one of the potential Pi Day pie / tart eaters has an aversion to egg so none could be used in any part of the recipe. Hence, the Pi Day Pear Tart. It is simple, attractive, and incredibly tasty.

The pear-poaching and tart recipes came from David Lebovitz, both by a chance Google search. The tart dough recipe was quite impressive, allowing the baker to feel like a chemist as the hot, liquid mixture of butter, oil, sugar, salt, and water hissed and foamed at the addition of flour. The dough held together extremely well and produced a lovely, firm tart shell. After trying this method out, there is no need for cutting cold butter into flour anymore (this will eventually be mastered for that flaky pie crust). Even on the first try, the tart shell came out perfectly golden and without any cracks.

The resulting pear tart looked very pretty from its design of concentric pear slices and glistening surface. The pears used could have been more ripe and sweet as the ones available were relatively flavorless. Overall, the pear tart was a success being not too sweet and subtly elegant.

Poaching Pears (adapted)
1 quart (1 liter) water
1 cup (200 g) sugar
4 large pears; peeled, cored, and quartered

In a large saucepan, heat the water and sugar until warm and the sugar is dissolved. Add any of the additions that you wish. Slide in the pears and cover saucepan partially. Keep the liquid at a very low boil and simmer the pears until cooked through, about 15 to 25 minutes, depending on the pears. Remove from heat and let the pears cool in their liquid.

(I did not have enough sugar. The original recipe called for about 256g sugar, but only about 200g was used.)

French Tart Dough (adapted)
90 g (3 ounces) unsalted butter, cut into pieces
1 tablespoon vegetable oil (I used canola)
3 tablespoons water
1 tablespoon sugar
1/8 teaspoon salt
150 g (5oz, or 1 slightly-rounded cup) flour

Preheat the oven to 410º F (210º C). In a medium-sized ovenproof bowl, such as a Pyrex bowl, combine the butter, oil, water, sugar, and salt. Place the bowl in the oven for about 15 minutes, until the butter is bubbling and starts to brown just around the edges. When done, remove the bowl from oven (and be careful, since the bowl will be extremely hot and the mixture might sputter a bit), dump in the flour and stir it in quickly, until it comes together and forms a ball which pulls away from the sides of the bowl. Transfer the dough to a 9-inch (23 cm) tart mold with a removable bottom and spread it a bit with a spatula. Once the dough is cool enough to handle, pat it into the shell with the heel of your and, and use your fingers to press it up the sides of the tart mold. Reserve a small piece of dough, about the size of a raspberry, for patching any cracks. Prick the dough all over with the tines of a fork about ten times, then bake the tart shell in the oven for 15 minutes, or until the dough is golden brown (10 minutes for a golden, partially cooked tart shell as the crust edges may get too brown in the second baking). Remove from the oven and if there are any sizable cracks, use the bits of reserved dough to fill in and patch them. Let the shell cool before filling.

Pear Tart
1 tart shell
4 large poached pears
Apricot jam or preserves

Preheat oven to 350ºF. Thinly slice pears and arrange whatever decorative design you like in the tart shell. Make sure that the layers of sliced pear overlap. Put in oven and bake for 50-60 minutes. The tart crust should turn a deep golden brown. Remove tart from oven. Bring to a boil apricot jam with two tablespoons of water in a saucepan to create a glaze. Spread glaze over the surface of the tart using a pastry brush.

B Real Banh Mi

2011-03-08T20:22:00.000-08:00

Still in its soft-opening stage (so the sign says on the window) since November 2010, B Real is the Vietnamese sandwich sister shop to Pho Real across the street. Pho Real has already disappointed not once, but twice, but perhaps will still tempt a visit later in the year. In any case, B Real promises authentic Vietnamese banh mi sandwiches in a stylish and casual shop. Banh mi is commonly made with pickled sliced carrots, cucumber, cilantro, hot peppers, mayonnaise, pate, and meat all placed in a crusty, French-style baguette.

The B Real location is small, brightly lit, and clean from the light-colored wood and white paint. The walls are lined with mini-polaroid photos, Vietnamese coffee, and cans of condensed milk. There are bars and stools to eat at, though B Real also does take away.

There banh mi options are limited to grilled pork, grilled chicken, or combination meat. With the soft opening discount, the combination option is 36RMB (at a 20% discount), which is well-priced for a sandwich, especially in the French Concession. The person at the counter continually asked if I wanted a drink to go with the meal each time I changed my order. This happened about four times and the answer was always, "no." From the drink refrigerator, it looked like the options extended further than Coca-Cola to sodas made with lychee or guava.

The sandwich came out accompanied by a salad with thinly sliced vegetables doused in a mayonnaise dressing. The pickled vegetables gave the salad a bite, but otherwise was not very interesting. Before consuming the banh mi, B Real offers three signature house-made sauces that may be added to the sandwich: B1) Vietnamese Lime Honey Mayonnaise, B2) Vietnamese Garlic Sriracha Mayo, and B3) Home-made Passion fruit Hoisin Sauce. Out of the three, B2 was selected. The sandwich was served with a garnishing of cilantro and chopped red chilis as well as heavily seasoned prawn crackers. From the looks of the sandwich, the "combination meat" was more grilled pork with a few slices of ham. There was also a thin layer of pate, mayonnaise, pickled vegetables, and lettuce. The baguette was warm, crusty, and not hard. It looked good, but was lacking balance in its flavors. The pork was marinated and brought a sweet touch to the sandwich, but was not balanced out by the saltiness of the pate (or lack thereof). The pickled vegetables brought a nice acidity and fresh crunch, though the sandwich could have used a little more. Even with the chilis, there could have been more heat. Basically, the banh mi was primarily meat and bread and could have done with a tad more vegetable.

After the soft-opening period, B Real could be visited again as it works out the quirks in its sandwiches. Now, if only the 20% discount was available after its soft opening would B Real be a hot lunch spot.

B Real. 185 Fumin Lu (by Changle Lu), 富民路185号(近长乐路), Shanghai, People's Republic of China.

French Comfort at Franc

2011-03-07T03:23:00.000-08:00

At the back of Ferguson Lane sits a lovely French bistro called Franck. The decor of the restaurant is decidedly French with a cozy, candle-lit feel. Franck is known in Shanghai to be one of the best if not the best restaurants for French food. Now, we must emphasize this is about French food and not service, which has received mixed reviews. In any case, an invitation to dine at Franck could not be refused.

Walking through the doors and past the red curtains, there is a little store seamlessly integrated with the decor selling cheese, meats, and other goods and a small waiting area on the left. The bistro extends further back revealing a bar and a wine room. The dining room has a quiet murmur of Chinese and expats alike taking time with their meals.

The server arrives with two menus written on blackboard: one for the starters and another for the mains. This gives the impression that the dishes are seasonal and based on availability, a sign of freshness.

From the selection of starters, the "tomate, mozzarella di bufala" (140RMB) and "la grande charcuterie" (290RMB) was chosen. The first was presented as a large ball of fresh mozzarella and a cluster of fresh, incredibly ripe tomatoes with pesto and balsamic reduction. It was quite rustic to cut into the juicy tomatoes and fresh mozzarella and sliding it in the sauce of choice. The portion of mozzarella was not equal to the tomatoes given, which lowered the mozzarella to tomato ratio per bite. The la grande charcuterie was quite generous with cured meats piled on the wooden board with a large slice of the house-made terrine de campagne, a heaping of caramelized onions, and a thick slice of foie gras which became even more buttery as it reached room temperature. About four types of thinly cured meats were counted. All this was accompanied by imported butter and warm, crusty bread. The board of meats was magnificently satisfying. With six people reaching for this board, most were already feeling full before the mains arrived.

As there were six eating, the table decided to order all but the most expensive entree, the côte de boeuf (Australia) at 640RMB.

The best dish for most was the poulet rôti (180RMB) or roasted chicken, which covered mushrooms and rested on a cloud of potato pureé surrounded by jus with a few pods of blanched green beans and accompanied by fries. The chicken was moist and tender regardless of which angle it was cut from. The mushrooms and mashed potatoes were buttery and melted against your tongue. This dish is what many would think of when the idea of comforting French bistro cooking comes to mind. The fries were disappointing as they were nicely roasted on the outside, but a bit raw on the inside, revealing that these fries were cooked only once instead of twice. The lotte à américaine (200RMB) was a white fish cooked in a creamy orange sauce that tasted of French cognac and had a sweetness of saffron. The sauce was flavorful and carried the moist fish well. Another memorable dish was the pigeon feuilleté (220RMB), which was encased in a thin layer of puff pastry (or what looked like a few layers of phylo dough) and stuffed with foie gras and spinach (which was not evident after cutting the pigeon in half). The pigeon was indeed gamey and the foie gras carried the deep flavors even further. The thin layer of pastry covering the pigeon added a slightly crunchy texture to the tender meats. The dish was supposed to come with a pot of mushrooms as was seen earlier on another table, but never did arrive.

Out of all the plates that received the most hype, the tartare de boeuf (160RMB) did not live up to its reputation. The beef did not melt against your tongue as easily and was a bit chewy. Another disappointment was the seliole grillée (220RMB) or grilled monkfish (the English term for "seliole" was not clear). The flesh of the fish tasted, well, fishy. The ratatouille the monkfish was served with was not as thinly sliced as one would like, but it did still have a nice rustic texture to it. The selle d'agneau rôtie (220RMB) or roasted lamb was and accompanied by lentils. The lamb was cooked rare and was moist all the way through, but the lentils added nothing more than texture to the star of its dish.

For dessert, everyone shared the nougat glacé and crème brûlée. The nougat ice cream had large bits of hard nougat and almonds with in the ice cream and drizzled with a fresh berry sauce. The crème brûlée was served in an extremely shallow ramekin. The custard was more milky than custard in taste and was a bit runny. Though, no one can deny they love a crispy sugar topping.

The dinner at Franck left you cozy and comfortable with service that was not intrusive, allowing you to simply enjoy the experience of eating good food. The French in Shanghai are right to call Franck among the best to represent their nation's gastronomic fare.

Franck. Ferguson Lane, 376 Wukang Lu (by Hunan Lu) 武康路376号 (近湖南路), Shanghai, People's Republic of China. www.Franck.com.cn

Shanghai's Central Park Cafe

2011-03-04T00:24:00.000-08:00

Central Park Cafe is a piece of tranquility in busy Shanghai. Frenzied Palate stumbled upon one evening at the intersection of Shaanxi Nan Lu and Shaoxing Lu in Shanghai. The windows set into the brick building were warmly lit on the inside for the first two floors and there seemed to be a garden terrace on top. During summer, the leaves of the trees lining the street seem to protect the rooftop from the noise of the busy street below. Inside, you could see people reading and sipping on coffee. It looked very cozy and homely.

During a daytime visit, the entrance of the cafe gave an impression you were entering someone's home. There is a small staircase to going down to the ground floor, which has cute tables and a few wine racks. Taking a peek at the wine menu, the imported bottles are cheaply priced starting at 88RMB. If you decide to go up to the top of the cafe, you can take the winding staircase to the left of the entrance to the third floor, which opens up to the rooftop. Light-colored wicker garden furniture with thick cushions, an array of meticulously kept plants (with a visible shed) await on this green oasis. All the leaves from the trees protect you from direct sunlight and completely insulate the sound of traffic. At night with candles lit, the scene is magical and romantic.

The coffee at Central Park Cafe is pretty good (coffee bean origins are not yet known). It is not too bitter or burnt. After the order is placed, the drinks come out quickly. The serving is decently portioned as well.

One thing to be wary about is the food service. The kitchen is not prepared to handle a large volume of customers as everything is made to order. This could mean that you could wait forty-five minutes for a simple and forgettable toasted ham and cheese sandwich. The cream of mushroom soup was absolutely horrendous, barely resembling what it actually is supposed to be. The soup looked like water with a dash of cream added to it with diced carrots, cucumber, and mushroom. The proprietor said she did not know what cream of mushroom soup should look like and was sorry that the soup was not up to expectations. It is almost shameful to offer an item on the menu at a cafe that already seemed to have a lot of thought put into every detail. The least that she could have done was have a proper recipe looked up.

Central Park Cafe is a great place for coffee and drinks, especially on the small rooftop terrace, but the food should be avoided.

Central Park Cafe. 542 Shaanxi Nan Lu (by Shaoxing Lu), 陕西南路542号, Shanghai, People's Republic of China.

Eggs In a Basket

2011-03-02T07:13:00.000-08:00

Among the majority of expats in Shanghai, brunches are usually spent outside the home as it is more convenient to access a wider range of Western brunch dishes. A big group brunch at a home on a weekend and on a budget means something has to be cooked up with a few cheap ingredients in ample time. The first idea that came to mind was eggs in a basket. Pancakes or French toast would have been a nice thought, but maple syrup is overpriced and sold primarily in expat-oriented stores. Using an oven was out of the picture considering it is a rarity in China. In Shanghai, eggs, butter, and bread are readily and cheaply available, so something involving those three ingredients meant eggs in a basket would be the brunch contribution.

After toasting the bread in butter in a pan, the egg is cracked into the hole and cooked until the whites are no longer raw, but the yolk is still runny. This takes about 7-10 minutes per serving. It seemed even longer as the egg cooked from the bottom up and you have to be careful about not turning up the heat too high, which would burn the bottom of the bread and egg. Most things do tend to taste better heavily browned and not charred. With one pan, one burner, many people cooking, and more people, it was only possible to make one egg in a basket at a time. Something had to be done to speed up the process. The idea to cover the pan while the egg was cooking came to mind and tested. After a few minutes, the whites were cooked all the way through and the egg was still runny. Success! This process only took half of the original cooking time. Just be mindful to remove the egg in a basket immediately after the whites are done because the convection heat created by using the lid will cause the yolks to solidify as well.

The resulting egg in a basket is buttery and nicely browned. A simple, delicious start to the day!

Eggs In A Basket (serves 2)
2 bread slices
2 eggs
4-6 Tablespoons butter
Salt and black pepper to taste

Using a biscuit cutter or other sharp, round object, cut a hole in the center of the bread slice about 1 1/2 to 2 inches in diameter. On the stove, heat the pan to medium. Put 1 to 1 1/2 tablespoons of butter in the pan to melt. Swirl butter to cover the bottom of the pan and immediately put the bread slice and its hole until golden brown, about a minute and a half. Remove the half-toasted bread and melt another tablespoon to tablespoon and a half of butter in the pan. Put the uncooked side of the bread down to lightly brown. Immediately turn the heat down to low and crack the egg in the "basket" or hole. Cover the pan and wait about 3-4 minutes until the egg whites have cooked all the way through. If you prefer your yolks more cooked, leave on the burner for a bit longer. By this point, the bottom of the toast and egg is also nicely browned and can be removed from the pan. Sprinkle coarse salt and freshly-ground black pepper over the egg. Repeat with second egg and slice.

Chicha 7-Course Set Meal

2011-03-01T21:44:00.001-08:00

There is yet another Eduardo Vargas venture in Shanghai. With Chicha, located in Sinan Mansions, Vargas is again getting back to his Peruvian roots. The first floor is a lounge and the second floor is the restaurant, both dimly lit and incredibly cozy. Word has it that Vargas is spending six nights of the week in the kitchen, which should better guarantee the quality of food coming out on the floor. The theme here is Latin food with Asian influences. Along with the regular menu available, diners had the option of a 7-course meal (200RMB) or for 80RMB more, the 12-course meal. Recent reviews claim that the size of the portions are generous compared to most other tastings, so the Nazca 7-course option was more practical.

Before arrival, the group of twelve Frenzied Palate went with was advised that there are two sittings for those interested in the set menus: 18:30 and 20:30. The staff was really polite and helpful, welcoming and showing us to our table on the second floor. The menu presented had individual dishes listed as well as an explanation of the prix fixe meals. It is not a selection of just dishes from the menu, but an opportunity for Vargas to extend his creativity. The set menu also came with certain rules in poorly edited English printed on the menu so diners cannot deny that they had been warned in advance. Here are the rules (and a poor quality photo of the menu to prove it):

"Las Reglas / The Rules
1. There is 2 menus digestion; Chef Eduardo changes all the time so there is not a real menu
2. Menu is based on availability of fresh products in the market & Eduardo's creativity
3. The food is served family style
4. Whole Table need to order same menu
5. If there is any vegetarian or alergic of something, please let us know
6. We are new, so no credit card available, ONLY CASH please
7. Provecho & Enjoy your experience at CHICHA"

One of the diners asked the host if it was even remotely possible for the party to split into two and ten so the 12-course menu could be ordered. It was declared that this would not be possible as the whole table needed to select either the 7 or 12-course menu. However, the group was warned of the rules in writing. This may be an indication that an amendment can be made to the mantra of "the customer is always right."

The first dish that came out was the Ceviche Chifero or fresh sea bass with a "twist" of ceviche sauce accompanied by ginger wonton shavings and pickled vegetables. The portion of ceviche was huge and the large cuts of fish were plump and fresh. This was an excellent start to the meal. You could even qualify this as the best dish from the meal. The rest of the dinner kind of went downhill from there.

The second course was a potato causa with crab meat or cold potato with crab meat with a Peruvian red chili sauce and sort of tartar sauce. It had an oddly sweet tinge to it, but neither of us could exactly pinpoint the flavor. The crab was undetectable, probably from all that tartar sauce. Still, there was something interesting about the potato starter - maybe the texture - that made it enjoyable. The third starter was the mushroom and cream cheese wonton with tamarind sauce. The wonton was fried and had a nice crunch and thickness. The small pocket of mushroom filling had a deep flavor and meaty texture that matched well against the texture of the wonton, but the cream cheese was also undetectable. The tamarind sauce gave the meatiness of the mushroom filling a light, acidic taste. The fourth starter was a seafood "jalea" or breaded and fried squid, fish, and shrimp with three different dipping sauces: huancaina (Peruvian yellow chili), tartar, and rocoto. The huancaina sauce had the strongest flavor and was a little reminiscent of a garlic aioli. The rocoto sauce was frothy and light, with a slight sweetness. The cuts of squid in this starter included both the shaft and the tentacles, which was nice to see as few Western restaurants in Shanghai prefer to serve the tentacles. The final starter was the lamb antichucho or lamb skewer with quinoa tabouli and mint yogurt sauce. This was probably the most disappointing dish during the entire meal. The quinoa tabouli got lost in the mash of mint yogurt and some other sweet barbecue-like sauce that was drizzled on the lamb. The lamb itself was three small cubes grilled on a toothpick, but would not adhere to the sauces. It was difficult to get the lamb, sauces, and quinoa tabouli together all in the same bite.

The main course was the Lomo Saltado or stir-fried beef tenderloin "saltado style" with potato and fried rice. The texture of the beef tenderloin felt more medium well than rare to medium rare. The sauce that everything was cooked in took over the flavor of the blanched vegetables and meat. It went well atop the fried rice though. The dessert consisted of three mini tarts: a lucuma tart (Peruvian jungle fruit) covered in chocolate, a lime tart with a meringue, and a bite of Peruvian flan. The chocolate covered tart had a really thin shell, which for some reason made people think of the scene in the original film version of "Willy Wonka and the Chocolate Factory" where Gene Wilder bit into a flower cup. The chocolate on top was firm and the fruit had a nice tart bite to it. The lime tart must have been an alternative take on a lemon meringue. The meringue was dotted atop the tart and roasted like browned marshmallows. The flan was probably the best bite of the bunch with a creamy caramel sauce and firm custard texture.

The dinner was nice and the service was great, but none of the dishes were particularly memorable aside from the ceviche. Most of the dishes were tasty, but did not leave a great impression on most of the diners in this group. A fellow diner mentioned that the rave reviews on CityWeekend and SmartShanghai may have to do with what is considered relatively good to Shanghai - rather than international - standards. The collective high expectations may contributed to the disappointment that all the dishes did not match the hype. Vargas is said to change the menu daily, so it is reasonable to say one cannot expect an outstanding meal every time from this chef that has made a great name for himself in Shanghai. Perhaps the set menu would be an enjoyable dining experience for an evening, but at the moment, it is something that would only be done once, at least for this season.

Chicha. 33 Sinan Mansions 2/F, 47 Fuxing Lu (by Sinan Lu) 思南路47弄 (近复兴西路), Shanghai, People's Republic of China.

Morton's The Steakhouse Happy Hour

2011-02-25T23:23:00.001-08:00

Morton's The Steakhouse is synonymous with American fine dining and prime beef. As a somewhat recent import to Shanghai, it still causes a stir with its quality steaks and high prices, deterring budget-minded diners. However, Morton's has a great happy hour which is not well-advertised on the lifestyle websites in Shanghai (so far). Arriving to the restaurant bar is painless as it is not packed, even during the second half of the happy hour. On the fourth floor of the IFC Mall, patrons are immediately greeted by hospitable staff and a sectioned bar area awaits. The happy hour "mortini" night runs from 17:00-19:00 Mondays to Fridays and includes complimentary filet mignon sandwiches with mustard mayonnaise. There are five martinis to choose from: gin mortini, cosmopolitan, vodka mortini, appletini, and chocolate mortini for just 38RMB each. For the classic martinis, there is a choice to have olives with or without blue cheese. The pours are not skimpy and the martinis are well-mixed.

Morton's claims the prime beef served is never frozen, always served fresh after being aged in a cyro-vacuumed bag. The idea of the care put into their beef will make any carnivore's tongue tingle. After the drink orders were placed, plates of mini filet mignon sandwiches arrive. The bar menu indicates that the filet mignon sandwiches are 120RMB per order should you desire to order it outside of happy hour. The complimentary filet mignon sandwiches make this happy hour an excellent deal because it is like eating a plate of money made with filet mignon. There are four mini sandwiches on a plate with a thin slice of filet mignon between a buttery, toasted, warm bun. The mustard mayonnaise is thinly spread in order to present the filet mignon as the star of this sandwich. The filet mignon is served rare, as a fine cut of beef should be. It was so rare that it even bled onto the bread (pictured). However, the filet mignon was inconsistent as some slices were less cooked than others so your jaw was locked around a chewy piece of raw beef while other slices melted in your mouth against the bun.

Happy hour at Morton's The Steakhouse has to be one of the better happy hour deals in Shanghai. Not only do you get a martini at a great price, but also complimentary filet mignon sandwiches to keep you from drinking on an empty stomach. Fans of the Morton's happy hour only have so long to wait until the rest of Shanghai finds out about their precious happy hour gem.

Morton's The Steakhouse. Shop 15-16, 4/F, Shanghai IFC Mall, 8 Century Avenue, Pudong New Area, Shanghai 200120, People's Republic of China. Tel: +86 21 6075 8888. www.mortons.com

Enoterra's Croque Monsieur

2011-02-25T21:54:00.000-08:00

Enoterra (formerly Enoteca) updated its food menu and removed the duck sandwich in favor of a croque monsieur (about 68RMB if memory serves as the menu is not online), a French hot ham and emmental or gruyère cheese sandwich. After a couple of bottles of wine, why not try it? The sandwich is huge and a great value for what it is worth, especially considering the relative size of sandwiches in Shanghai. The kitchen will even cut up the croque monsieur to make its sharing easier in a group. The sandwich has an even balance of cheese, ham, and bread. The cheese was perfectly melted and slightly toasted on top, stretching into wires when pieces of the sandwich were removed from its whole. The bread was not soggy from the butter and cheese. The ham completed the sandwich with its slight sweetness. The duck sandwich is still missed, but Enoterra's decadent croque monsieur is not a bad substitute.

Enoterra. 53-57 Anfu Lu (near Wulumuqi Lu) 安福路53-57号, 近乌鲁木齐路, Shanghai, People's Republic of China.

McFlurry International - China

2011-02-25T00:46:00.000-08:00

In China, the McFlurry is known as 麦旋风 mài xuànfēng or "McDonald's whirlwind." The summer of 2010 saw the introduction of the classic Oreo McFlurry to China (there were only sundaes and ice cream floats before then). It was the only variety available at that time. As McDonald's caters its menu for its local customer base, it was surprising to see no specific flavor had been added for the Chinese palate.

In January 2011, in Harbin, China, the McFlurry for 黑莓酱味 hēiméi jiàng wèi or "blackberry jam flavor" appeared on the marquis for 10RMB. The server advised that you can get a discount for ordering two, which was about 15RMB. The photo of the "blackberry" did not depict the blackberries commonly known in North America, but looked a bit like blueberries. It was unclear exactly which berry this was or if it was native to China. In any case, along with the "blackberry jam," the McFlurry had bits and pieces of Oreo cookie mixed in. This seemed to be an appealing combination: fruity berry flavor with crunchy chocolate cookie bits all mixed in to McDonald's brilliantly white soft-serve. The server eagerly went to work, but was so stingy on the portion of soft-serve dispensed and the scoop of Oreo cookie that the actual serving of McFlurry with "blackberry jam flavor" barely reached the half-way point of the cup. The taste and the flavor of the actual McFlurry made up for its disappointing portion. The blackberry jam did not taste artificial in any way and was not over-sweetened, which gave the dessert a fresh taste. The pieces of Oreo cookie were so tiny, it just added crunch to the McFlurry so that each bite had a different texture. This is an excellent start to unique McFlurry flavors in China.

Il Nascondiglio: Venetian Private Dining

2011-02-19T21:59:00.000-08:00

You probably already read about Il Nascondiglio already from Dumplings and Donuts and Sugar and Spiced, but Frenzied Palate still has a say!

Il Nascondiglio - meaning the "hideaway" - was conceived by Fabrizio Pizzioli, the chef, and his partner, Ting, the lovely hostess. They declared Il Nascondiglio to be a project of theirs to show their passion for food and a unique dining experience. SmartShangahi advertised "Venetian private dining" and this night was the first of three test dinners for 100RMB per person. This spot is tucked away up a dark staircase on the corner of Xiangyang Lu and Yongjia Lu. When the door opened, you are bathed in warm light and the preserved interior of an old lane house. Fabrizio and Ting informed us that they also shared the same address as their private dining room. The mismatched antique furniture added charm to the room that also held a two-burner stove and prep area, indicating the food would be prepared right in front of the guests. As it was January, the room was a bit chilly and I was wondering how the hot dishes will stay warm from kitchen to table.

When introducing the menu, Fabrizio said he went to the local markets earlier that day to find what was fresh and available before constructing the menu which was emailed out later that afternoon. First appetizer was the bruschette classiche or classic bruschetta served on communal plates. Everyone politely waited for wine to be poured before indulging in the first course. The bread was toasted and had the aroma of cut cloves of garlic rubbed onto its surface. The size of the tomatoes cut was large enough to ask the mouth to open a bit wider than normal, but was still juicy. The second appetizer was the "rotolini di melanzane ripieni" or aubergine wrapped around halved grape tomatoes and ham. The aubergine looked nicely grilled, but for some reason lacked any distinguishing flavor. It would have been better served freshly grilled to contrast the raw tomato and cool ham.

The first main dish was the farfalle al funghi al gin or butterfly pasta with mushroom and gin. The mushrooms were sauteed with gin and thrown into a creme sauce before the pasta was placed on top to finish cooking. Fabrizio went around to each guest's plate to freshly grate cheese atop. As the favored porcini mushrooms were not available in Shanghai produce markets, king oyster mushrooms were used instead, still maintaining that earthy flavor. The sauce was creamy and light. The consistency of the creme sauce did not allow the farfalle to become a solid mass when cool as the chilliness of the room did not permit the dishes to stay warm for more than five minutes.

The second main dish was the arrosto di manzo or "beef in melting sauce," which was accompanied by "patate in tecia" or "typical potatoes," "piselli triestini" or "typical green beans," and "peperonata" or "red bell pepper sauce." The beef was incredibly tender and fell apart easily with the introduction of the fork as a cutting utensil. It carried a lot of flavor from the sauce the beef cut was cooked in showing the whole day of preparation the beef dish required. Fabrizio marinated the beef in the morning puncturing holes in the cut to ensure the flavors would reach deep inside the layers of flesh. The accompanying sides added texture to the beef, but, again, were cold on consumption. Fabrizio also offered extra bottles of wine (at an extra price) to supplement the glass that came with the meal.

"Palancinche" or sweet crepes made to order concluded the meal. Each diner had the option to have the crepe rolled or folded into a triangle with either jam, chocolate (Nutella), or plain filling (butter and lemon). The crepes were cooked in front of the diners allowing the chef and hostess to converse with the diners about the meal and life in Shanghai in general.

The dining experience at Il Nascondiglio was thoroughly enjoyable and intimate allowing the diners (as well as chef and hostess) to share conversation and enjoy Italian food. It is great for diners wanting to avoid interruptions and have the night completely catered to their needs. The drawback of the dinner was that most of the dishes ended up being cold on the plate, most likely from the common etiquette of waiting for everyone to be served before taking the first bite. And why was there an overflowing punch-worthy size bowl of farfalle on the prep counter? Was that for the following night? Another item for consideration is that the dinner was advertised as "Venetian private dining," but there was little in the menu that was characteristic of Venetian cuisine such as polenta, risotto and seafood. Is private dining particularly a Venetian culinary tradition or is the meal itself supposed to reflect not just Italian, but Venetian food? Perhaps when Il Nascondiglio moves past its guinea pig stage will we come to learn if "Venetian" applies to the dining experience or the food itself.

Il Nascondiglio. 311 Xiangyang nan Lu (near Yongjia Lu), 襄阳南路311号，近永嘉路, Shanghai, China. Tel: 02134612036. Mob: 13166014282.

Huevos Brunch at Maya

2011-02-19T21:11:00.000-08:00

Most brunches in Shanghai run closer to the range of 100RMB per person. Maya advertises a "Huevos Brunch" with everything listed on the brunch menu under 50RMB. The deal sounds really good, especially if you are not in the mood for a pricey brunch buffet.

The free-range egg dish selected for this brunch was the Pan de Maiz Huevos Benedictos (50RMB) or poached runny eggs over chorizo with a corn muffin and red pepper hollandaise. The eggs had perfectly cooked egg whites and yolks that slowly oozed out. The corn muffin was an excellent vehicle to soak up the red pepper hollandaise sauce and egg yolks. The hollandaise sauce had a bit of a smoked tinge of flavor from the red pepper making it a good match for the chorizo and the heavy, filling texture of the corn muffin. The roasted potatoes were also a great match for the dish as its cut edges were caramelized, soft on the inside, and nicely seasoned overall. The dish looked small, but was incredibly filling.

The best looking dish - at least for value - on the brunch menu was the Huevos Divorciados, a vegetarian dish, with green and red chili sauce, refried beans, cheese quesadilla, sour cream and salsa (45RMB). The Maya Mary (50RMB) was served in a low ball glass with plenty of rice and little kick. The brunch also includes bottomless sangria and margaritas for 125RMB and 150RMB, respectively (to be sampled). Advertising menu items as 50RMB or lower is the hook, but with all the other brunch items such as drinks and perhaps even an appetizer of guacamole and chips (50 RMB) while you wait, the bill adds up fast.

Maya. 2/F, Grand Plaza Club House, 568 Julu Lu (near Shaanxi Nan Lu), Shanghai, People's Republic of China. 巨鹿路568弄四方新城俱乐部2楼，近陕西南路. www.casanova.com.cn/maya.

Big Bamboo Pizza + Beer Monday Night Promotion

2011-01-30T23:19:00.000-08:00

Mondays are becoming the night in Shanghai to get over the workday blues with dining promotions although the work-week is barely 8 hours old. At Big Bamboo, the Monday night special is pizza and a pint of beer for 58RMB from 18:00-02:00. At 20:00, the bar is filled primarily with middle-aged men taking advantage of the deal and already in need of an after-work pint. The servers are quick to seat you and receive your order. The pint of beer is standard Budweiser or Carlsberg on draft. Looking at the regular menu, all the pizzas are listed at the same price, so selecting one pizza over another will not mean that you are getting more value from the pizza through this deal. Thus, there is no feeling of satisfaction from beating the system by ordering a more expensive pizza. Feeling a bit hungry, we ordered the Chicken Pesto (chicken breast, mushrooms, sun-dried tomatoes, broccoli, feta cheese with tomato pesto sauce and mozzarella cheese) and Mediterranean (spinach, black olives, peppers, onions, tomatoes, feta cheese).

The pizzas promptly arrive and were larger than the server described them (about 12-inches). The crust was extremely thin and crispy, even able to hold the weight of the chicken without folding. The Mediterranean pizza was not impressive. The nobs of feta were generous, but the black olives were sparse. The remainder of the vegetable toppings looked and tasted more like an attempt at pico de gallo. The chicken pesto was slightly better as the chicken was cooked through, seasoned and not dry. There was not as much feta as the Mediterranean though. The pesto tasted non-existent with no hint of extra-virgin olive oil, basil, and pine nuts. The only green splash of color came from the broccoli. The mozzarella cheese on both was just enough to cover the pizza, but almost disappearing in the pizza. Overall, the crust is the best part of the entire pizza. At least a pint was served with this deal.

Big Bamboo. 132 Nanyang Lu (by Xikang Lu), Jing'An District, Shanghai 200040, People's Republic of China. 海市静安区南阳路132号. www.BigBamboo.cn

Momofuku Milk Bar Compost Cookie

2011-01-26T02:57:00.000-08:00

When I heard that a friend planned on bringing me back one of the infamous Momofuku Milk Bar compost cookies from the United States to China, I was absolutely ecstatic. The Momofuku compost cookie created by Christina Tosi held promises of sweet, salty, savory, and decadent all rolled up into a cookie. It is made of pretzels, potato chips, coffee, oats, butterscotch, chocolate chips, butter, unbleached wheat flour, sugar, brown sugar, chocolate chips, butterscotch chips, graham crumbs, pretzels, potato chips, glucose syrup, eggs, whole oats, cream, milk powder, coffee grounds, salt, leavening, and vanilla. The milk powder is an interesting addition, but its distinguishing properties in a cookie is somewhat of a mystery.

Granted its enjoyment would not occur until a few days after its delivery, anticipation was still building. My friend gave me one lone cookie enclosed in cellophane. Having read a recipe (among the many variations) on how to make my own compost cookie, I started to think the calories alone could be a meal in itself. The first bite was one of buttery decadence. There is so much butter in this cookie, your teeth and tongue could feel its baked texture and presence. The cookie was also incredibly sugary with the slightest hint of coffee. There were small bits of saltiness from the pretzels (the crunch from the potato chips probably baked away), but the cookie was overall sweet. Almost too sweet. The compost cookie was still very tasty. My stomach could have managed another one had there been one available. Now, if only I could sample a compost cookie fresh out of the oven...

**The cookie photos may not be of the entire cookie, but the excitement from the idea of its consumption may have caused a lapse in memory.**

Momofuku Milk Bar. Multiple locations in New York City. www.momofuku.com/milkbar

Bistro Burger Dissatisfaction

2011-01-25T22:29:00.000-08:00

Another burger, another year. It is safe to say that it has been about a year that I have consumed a burger and, coincidentally, I returned to the same place - Bistro Burger, another Eduardo Vargas establishment. The first visit was a blurred memory of dissatisfaction after trying the signature burger and the "protein-style" version. This last visit is another reminder of the disappointment I first felt.

Scouring the menu, few of the burger options jumped out as something unique or comforting. Bearing witness to countless false promises made by various menus in China, expectations were already low. The burger selected (another seemingly insignificant, yet important memory for the food blog) arrived with a bit of arugula salad and was topped with grilled onions. The bun had a fluffy appearance and was warm. However, the entire burger was poorly constructed. The hamburger itself did not stay together well, falling apart instead of being a cohesive mass of beef. Each bite into the burger resulted in more contents of the burger falling apart or off, preventing me from having the perfect bite with the right balance of all the ingredients. Having been seated with intense hunger pangs to accompany me, I could barely finish half the burger. It simply was not satisfying. Another year, another Bistro Burger disappointment.

The fries were served hot out of the fryer and were pretty tasty after an introduction to salt and black pepper. The consistency of the fries was good - crisp on the outside with a soft center. The milkshakes were not bad either. The server brought out the metal cups each milkshake was made in so there was slightly more milkshake per glass serving. The milkshakes could have benefited from more ice cream and less milk, as the texture was on the thin side.

Still not the best burger in Shanghai, but the fries and milkshake may be worth the snack.

Bistro Burger. 1/F, Mansion, 291 Fumin Lu (near Changle Lu), Shanghai, China. 富民路291号1楼,近长乐路

New Year's Eve Tasting Menu at Madison

2010-12-30T01:16:00.000-08:00

If you were in any city aside from Shanghai during Christmas, it is highly doubtful you would even know Christmas was near if not for the calendar and colder weather. Trying to make the best of something celebrated elsewhere in a country not accustomed to recognizing it makes it a challenge. Why not then go balls to the walls with a fancy meal to celebrate a Western religious and cultural holiday tradition? Out of all the restaurants in Shanghai, Madison has left the greatest impression (though Avalon might have been up there if Hilary Ambrose did not leave), so why not try a holiday meal there? Austin Hu told us what he had in the works in early December, something slightly closer to home sounded great. There were two menus to choose from between 8 courses and 5 being set at 688RMB and 388RMB respectively. The set menu for each was about the same, but with the smaller 5-course dinner, out went the Smoked Trout - Housemade Trout Caviar, Pickled Water Celery, Chestnut Chips, Foie Gras Ravioli - Braised Goose Leg, Cranberry Compote, Hazelnut Crumble, and Yogurt Panna Cotta - Plum Compote, Prosecco. As much as the 8-courses tempted the stomach, the wallet (and waist line) was not having it.

I would also like to say as much as I am opposed to taking photos with flash in a dining room, the camera being used was not up to par for the task so concessions were made. Hence, the hodgepodge of flash and no-flash shots.

First off was the Warm Cauliflower Flan with Chinese Caviar served in a shot glass and a little metal spoon (note this is not a "mother-of-pearl" spoon to avoid giving the caviar a metallic tinge, but this should not be something to complain about given the circumstances). The origins of the caviar was not made clear aside from the indication that it is "Chinese," but not even the sort of fish it was harvested from was known. The flan was light and delicately sweet, hinting only of cauliflower. The caviar was delightfully salty, slightly acidic, and bitter, cutting into each creamy, warm bite of eggy flan in a way that will widen the horizon of the palate.

Next we were served the cured kampachi with hawthorne jelly and decorated with purple gynura leaves. As soon as the dish is set down, truffle aromas permeate the air. It was similar to the cured fish from Goga (Brad Turley's restaurant in Shanghai). It was not a heavy dish being cool and not over-seasoned to emphasize the cured kampachi and also anticipating the other courses to come in the meal. The Hawthorne jelly gave it a slightly sweet taste, bringing out the fresh sweetness of the fish.

Prawns had a saffron-vanilla sauce and rested on Chinese watercress. It was only one moderately sized prawn, which made you wish there were two instead of one. Following the cured kampachi, the saffron-vanilla sauce continued the slightly sweet savory palate. Perhaps this sweetness permeating the entire menu is an ode to the fact that the restaurant is in Shanghai and also is celebrating the Shanghainese sweet-tooth. Cutting into the prawn, watercress, and other roasted vegetables in the dish, I carefully put each equal-sized piece on my fork with a swirl in the saffron-vanilla sauce to get the perfect bite.

A traditional American Christmas meal is not complete without the holiday goose. However, Austin Hu did not present the table with an entire goose, but rather a sliced pan-roasted goose breast with sunchoke puree, braised treviso, and truffle vinaigrette. The goose tasted game-like and rich, warming the senses as well as filling the stomach. Using goose instead of other fowl made this course taste more decadent only for its more rare use in Shanghai and everyday meals because of its rich flavor and fattiness.

Before the dessert course, there was a long break. The server asked if we would like coffee or tea to accompany our dessert or act as a digestif.

The dessert was a peanut butter chocolate opera cake with raspberry ice cream. The raspberry ice cream was more a sorbet than ice cream for the clear lack of silky dairy texture. The cake served at room temperature was not undercooked or too dry. The tartness of the raspberry balanced the richness of the chocolate.

Compared to the other courses in the meal, the cake was relatively large and you would almost say the portion was generous. If your stomach was not full from the small tastings, the peanut butter chocolate opera cake will definitely fill any voids left. A fellow diner had stated before the meal that everything was delicious, but so small. After consuming the incredibly rich cake, that same diner was decidedly full almost as if to say that the cake served the same function as rice at the end of a meal.

The Christmas Eve meal was thoroughly enjoyable. Eaten in small bites, the entire meal could be found as filling as the diner is meant to relish in the flavors and not find gluttonous satisfaction in a large volume of food. As a pillar of American fine dining in Shanghai, I would have hoped for more takes on classic American Christmas dishes than bringing in the fusion of Chinese culture. Though, being in Shanghai, the menu represented the finer touches of each.

Ethics of Foie Gras

2010-12-16T22:14:00.000-08:00

I just read this fascinating article on Serious Eats by J. Kenji Lopez-Alt on "The Physiology of Foie: Why Foie Gras is Not Unethical." For those skeptical to the idea of force feeding, a friend's impression of a Moulard duck during the gavage process struggling and shaking its throat did not help. A visit to a La Belle Farms in Hudson Valley cleared up a lot of hearsay and answered questions. At this farm, the ducks were found to look healthy and live comfortably. A lot of emphasis was placed on how humans must avoid anthropomorphizing the animals as the physiology of the animal may differ greatly from that of a human. One should also take into consideration the origin and the process of animal products when making purchases to support a good farm instead of a bad one or making generalized judgements based on the worst. Take some positive steps in consumer behavior to encourage change in standards. I was quite taken by this article and found it fascinating as a person appreciative of foie gras and curious about the process of producing a high-quality product. This is definitely worth a read and consideration.

Speaking of foie gras, does anyone know where one can find a whole, prepared lobe of foie gras in Shanghai for retail sale?

Madison Brunch - A Locavore Delight

2010-12-02T23:53:00.000-08:00

Brunch is a weekend institution. It is not breakfast and it is not lunch. It is a way to spend time free of work responsibility and sharing conversation with friends over a comforting meal. Brunches are best when lazy requiring no set beginning or end, though dimming light is an indicator that perhaps Sunday dinner should have already started. In Shanghai, brunch tends to span between the hours of 11:00 to 15:00 accommodating the late-risers, church-goers, and everyone else in between needing midday nourishment. The options in Shanghai are endless, with the hotel brunches pushing their more expensive buffets in every free expat magazine. The majority of other brunch options involve a set meal with 2-3 courses, coffee or tea, and a pastry. Seeing the menu at Madison, everyone who had not brunched there before was surprised to see that there was no set meal option on the menu. With a decent-sized group ordering a myriad of items off the menu, the cost per person was actually less than the set menus of popular brunch spots, like Azul, which is right downstairs. You would expect the complete opposite when ordering a la carte!

All the egg options had a great twist to them, though we neglected to try the deviled eggs. My indifference to the choice probably came from the fact that I know of university students who have made their own in their dining halls. The scotch eggs were completely devoted to duck. The duck eggs were encased in duck sausage and had a healthy dollop of whole-grain mustard and rocket on top. It was cut into quarters, which made it easy to share. The scrambled eggs were a favorite. The eggs were not dry nor runny with all sorts of mushrooms and served on top of a puff pastry round. Immediately when the server puts the plate down, you need to attack as the pastry would go soft from the wet egg on top. There was also a hint of truffle oil in the scrambled eggs. The eggs Benedict came out with a healthy serving of hollandaise sauce over pig trotters and muffin. The shredded pig trotters were compacted into a flat disk that flaked apart nicely when cutting into the egg and the bread it sat upon. The hollandaise sauce was thick and not too acidic, complimenting the pig trotter.

Other highlights on the menu included the incredibly creamy Chili Biscuits, house-cured pancetta, potato pancakes with sweet house-made catsup, and the breads (chocolate bun and cinnamon bun). One good thing about the rolls were that the buns were cooked all the way through and you were not left with a doughy mess on the inside. Not so impressive were the beignets, which were more fried donut holes than the pillows of dough doused with powdered sugar from Cafe Du Monde an American commonly associates with the word "beignet." Being an American fine dining establishment, a refined take on the classic donut with chocolate, berry, and cinnamon dips could be forgiven, but to call it a beignet is something I do not agree with. The French toast with yogurt and berry was good, but not an outstanding point on the brunch menu. To top off an already slightly sweet meal, we recieved a s'mores and pb&j trifle. The s'mores trifle had bits of chocolate cake, thick marshmallow creme, chocolate pudding, and a giant graham cracker cookie stick. The pb&j trifle had their wonderfully creamy and rich peanut ice cream, berry, and creme with toast sticks as garnish to complete the "sandwich concept." Sprinkled on top of both were what seemed to be crushed pistachios with a sort of medium-ball sugaring.

The brunch at Madison is really good, especially for the quality you get for the price. Taking into consideration the locavore trend in Shanghai is barely beginning, it is nice to see Austin Hu leading the pack. Madison is by far the best brunch in Shanghai when it comes to an American standard.

Madison. 3/F, 18 Dongping Lu, near Hengshan Lu. 东平路18号, 近衡山路. Shanghai, People's Republic of China.

The Alchemist: Feeling Like a Stumped Scientist

2010-12-01T00:18:00.000-08:00

Before its grand opening, I went with a couple of friends to check out Kelley Lee's newest venture, The Alchemist, which is focused on creations exploring the bounds of molecular gastronomy. Outside the kitchen, all the creations are overseen by Ryan Noreiks, from Brisbane, Australia. The atmosphere is swanky, cozy, and not so loud making it ideal for after-work drinks, conversation, or a date. The chandelier created out of spoons is a unique touch and gesture to experimentation.

The Hong was the first drink I ordered made of Tanqueray gin, quinquina dubonnet, rhubarb bitters, and grapefruit air. It came out in an elegant bowl-like vessel and a large atomizer (think giant perfume bottle) accompanied it. The server spritzed the drink with this "grapefruit air" before disappearing. The presentation was impressive and fun. It was a lovely take on a bramble and not so overpriced for a molecular cocktail. I also enjoyed the Dark Mystic, which tasted like a Christmas explosion from the chocolate and warm, spiced bite. However, when the Yangtze River cocktail came out, we immediately became confused. The table was also expecting a foie gras order with the knowledge that its presentation may be deceiving. With all the vials, vessels, cups, and bowls that the drinks were being served in, without experience you are unsure of what to expect. The Yangtze River take on a Long Island Iced Tea came out in two parts: 1 cup of alcoholic sorbet and an espresso cup of tea. We stared at it for a while wondering if the foie gras was hiding under a pear compote. Only until Kelley Lee came out we realized that it was not a foie gras concoction, but the cocktail. Oops. Only later did the foie gras plate come out and the sugared bits glittering on the plate were the candied bacon. Another issue arose when the fish tartar was presented with a large vial of gaseous liquid. Were we supposed to pour the whole bottle over the raw fish? Only when Kelley Lee came out again was it explained that the dry ice in the chardonnay made a gas to "perfume the dish." Without instruction, we could have ignorantly destroyed the dish. The transition from presentation to consumption could be eased if only the servers were better trained at this point to explain how everything is consumed immediately upon arrival to the table.

The experience at The Alchemist was fun, interactive, and highly entertaining. As a patron, you feel more involved with the food and drinks wondering what it is and how they did it. It is a place that food enthusiasts will enjoy and a place to impress your friends.

The Alchemist. Sinan Mansions, Block 32, 45 Sinan Lu, near Fuxing Zhong Lu 思南路45号32号楼，近复兴西路. Shanghai, China

Yogu-La!

2010-11-18T02:17:00.000-08:00

The frozen yogurt phenomena surged from California and hit the shores of Shanghai, receding and leaving a few shops behind. Yogu-la is a new frozen yogurt shop in the affluent Xintiandi boasting Italian roots and fresh fruit toppings reminiscent of those you would find at Pinkberry minus the Captain Crunch cereal. Why not? Xintiandi is an ideal place to wander around browsing shops and sitting outside during warm days. It has proved itself a location that several love to photograph. The walk through the re-created Shanghainese architecture would only be heightened with the accompaniment of a refreshing, sweet treat. Yogu-la is a word that the Chinese would use for the yogurt, ending it with "-la" because it sounds all so cute and endearing. Chinese love using "la" at the end of statements. It just makes everything sound a lot better.

There are six yogurt machines that were serving different flavors of yogurt: original, chocolate, passion fruit, mango, blueberry. The menu rotates depending on what batch is being made that day, but the full menu of the flavors are above the yogurt dispensers so if you miss something there is a sign that reminds you what you have to come back to. I still must try the pistachio, which is hopefully not too sweet. The blueberry was the best out of the flavored yogurts. The passion fruit flavor could have been stronger and not as tart, but it was promising. The original was also really nice, a bit on the tart side and not too sugary. The fruit toppings were all very fresh and not under-ripe adding a fresh texture to the creamy yogurt. There was kiwi, dragon fruit, mango, watermelon, cantaloupe, and papaya to choose from. At the time of tasting, the manager was present and readily welcomed all constructive criticisms to make the Italian-style frozen yogurt all the better. The prices are completely reasonable for the large serving of frozen yogurt you get - 25RMB for a regular cup and 45RMB for the big cup. The fall opening of Yogu-La baffled me as winters come too quickly in Shanghai offering less incentive to seek out frozen yogurt.

Yogu-La. Xintiandi, Shanghai, People's Republic of China

Dim Sum Brunch at Ye Shanghai

2010-11-18T02:12:00.000-08:00

Ye Shanghai has this great weekend brunch deal for 98RMB all-you-can eat inclusive of tea. If you pay a little more, you can get an entree like roast duck. A little more RMB means that you can also get free-flow sparkling wine. That is not bad for a brunch deal, especially considering that the classy restaurant is located in Xintiandi, known for its more up-market establishments. Ye Shanghai takes a modern look at classic dim sum selections from both Shanghainese and Hong Kongese cuisine. The dining room reflects this philosophy and during brunch, it is well-lit and cozy without being so pretentious. Though, it is quite unfortunate to see that the patrons are mostly waiguoren instead of Chinese. That should not be a deterrent, however. The dim sum menu has an assortment of dishes perfect for sharing (ideally between 2 people as each order has two items). As it is a free-flow feeding frenzy, the parade of plates never has to stop. The server may look a bit perturbed by the length of the initial order of food, or she is balking at the amount of food seemingly small people can consume.

About every dish was ordered off the menu aside from the rice and noodle dishes (the dan dan mian (traditional Sichuan noodles) were a little on the oily and runny side). This includes the drunken chicken, sliced pork terrine with Zhejiang black vinegar, pan-fried turnip cake, sliced pork with garlic and chili, barbecue pork puffs, stir-fried beef with scallions and pancakes, spring onion cakes, steamed shrimp dumplings in XO chili sauce, smoked fish, steamed spare ribs, wheat gluten with mushroom and bamboo shoots, beancurd skin roll with mushroom, and wontons...to name a few. The spare ribs came out with pumpkin and was flavorless. The terrine was nothing special either. Overall, everything else was really lovely. If you do not like one item, someone at your table is bound to eat it. If you do like something, there is nothing stopping you from ordering more.

Ahhh...xiaolongbao. Mornings in Shanghai feel even more complete with an order of xiaolongbao. The hot broth supporting a light, meaty filling all enveloped by a thin wrapper translates to a savory explosion in your mouth. The xiaolongbao at Ye Shanghai was nothing impressive. The wrapper was not of an extraordinary thinness aside from the bottom as it did often break when being lifted from the steamer releasing its precious contents. The wrapper should be of even thickness throughout the entire dumpling, even taking the little folds into consideration. The broth was not very salty, but not savory either. And the pork itself did not stand out. No matter though. Still being able to get a xiaolongbao fix is enough to start the day.

Out of the desserts, I enjoyed the glutinous rice ball with peanut paste the most. The peanut paste was more of a pulverized peanut powder that was soft and melted slowly on your tongue. The mango pudding had a surprise of actual pieces of mango hidden within the pudding.

Ye Shanghai brunch is great for your wallet for what you get and has a classy dining area that will readily impress your dining partners. It is highly advisable to reserve in advance. The brunches are very popular and tables do get booked quickly.

Ye Shanghai. Xintiandi North Block, Lane 181 Taicang Lu (near Madang Lu), Shanghai, People's Republic of China. 太仓路181号 (近马当路) 新天地北里

KFC Egg Custard Tart

2010-11-15T20:34:00.000-08:00

KFC is a popular fast-food chain that has penetrated the Asian markets for its delicious fried chicken. I have heard of Hong Kongese actually requesting boxes of KFC egg tarts brought to them. News of this is kind of a shock considering the egg custard tarts are coming from a fast-food chain and not a specialty bakery. However, someone was kind enough to share a piping hot box (6 in this one, each with its own tart holder) of these delicate KFC tarts saving face of self-imposed shame. The puff pastry on this egg tart is incredibly flaky and you can see the countless layers developed from rolling out a proper puff pastry at the crust of the tart. The egg custard filling had a caramelized top from the baking, but was wonderfully light in the inside being firm and not hard nor gooey. No part of the tart was undercooked or tainted with random bites of dough or runny egg custard. It is sugary enough to tickle your sweet tooth, but not so much to drill a hole in your molars. The best egg custard tarts in Shanghai are said to be at Lillian Cake Shop (Lì Lián Dàn Tà - 莉莲蛋挞), a luxury yet to be indulged.

Lillian Cake Shop. 868 Huaihai Middle Road (near Maoming Road) / 卢湾区淮海中路868号(近茂名南路), Shanghai, People's Republic of China

Merci, Germany, for your chocolate

2010-11-15T19:47:00.000-08:00

Merci - when associated with chocolate - is supposed to mean the "finest Assortment of European Chocolates with a brand name that literally means thank you, there is no better way of expressing heartfelt gratitude." Merci is actually a brand of French chocolate manufactured by a German company.

Merci Milk Chocolate variety box came with 20 milk chocolate, hazelnut-almond, hazelnut cream, and praline cream sticks lined up in two rows. The cellophane and paper wrapper was easy to open and did not stick to the chocolate. Its simplicity made it elegant and not too fussy. In the hazelnut creme stick, the milk chocolate encased a small bar of light-colored hazelnut creme, which was silky and nutty, but the hazelnut flavor started to dissipate after the next few nibbles. I preferred the hazelnut-almond stick the most with bits of hazelnut and almond in the chocolate. The crunchy texture was complimented by the smooth milk chocolate, though highlighting the chocolate over the nut flavors. The milk chocolate was smooth, creamy, but too sweet in comparison with the others. The praline creme is dryer than the hazelnut creme and the flavor, again, is very subtle with only hints of caramelized sugar. The chocolate is very, very, smooth. This was the overarching characteristic of the chocolate sticks that I noticed. However, I am not really a fan of milk chocolate though, preferring the bitterness of cocoa nibs. Someone get me the Dark Chocolate variety!

Getting Down to Business in Bali (& Gili T)

2010-11-14T19:13:00.000-08:00

Indonesia is littered with warungs offering a place to eat and displaying the dishes each specializes in with a large sign or by name. Most of them have typical dishes on their menu, each focusing on either rice (nasi) or noodles (mie). Considering that my hosts in Java took me around to try the special dish at whatever given place, I may have missed out on some of these items. Not eating with a host though has given me the opportunity to try the dishes that other travelers I have encountered have come to loathe due to the seeming lack of variety as the menus are consistent throughout. Research and a curious appetite will address these woes!

Sitting on the beach on Gili Trawangan in front of Coral Beach Bungalows 2, much farther up north of the pier, you have to flip through the menu to get to the Indonesian section, which was much cheaper relative to the Indonesian dishes closer to the village. There was no explanation for what each dish contained. The server said the urap urap was vegetables with coconut and rice. The choice sounded healthy enough not to leave a negatively affect a beach body. The vegetable dish was mostly dry with heaps of shredded coconut in the vegetables. It was still flavorable and looked a lot better than the gado-gado with a peanut sauce dressing covering an assortment of vegetables.

In the village of Gili Trawangan away from the beach side, there was only one small restaurant advertised on the main street for Indonesian food coincidentally called Warung Indonesia. The majority of places along the main drag focused more on the present Western clientele. The only exception was the market area where street carts set up in the evening to cook up local fare at a price substantially cheaper than an iced tea at a restaurant. I recalled a recommendation to order nasi campur, which I opted for. It is a mixed plate of vegetables, meats, and other items surrounding a mound of rice all salty, savory, slightly bitter, slightly sour. You get a little bit of everything, including tempe! Nasi campur is a great choice if you are having trouble deciding exactly what to eat. The combination is satisfying and it tastes delicious as well.

Back in Ubud, after all that rice, it was time to indulge in some noodles. Warung Ijolumut had a more environmental and spiritually-geared environment (and free wifi) compared to other warungs toting local food with flags bearing Chinese characters and bright green walls. This warung costs slightly more than others in the area, but you pay for other amenities that are found at that location. The mie goreng looked like instant ramen noodles tossed with vegetables and served with an egg on top. The noodles were nothing special and tasted like they were pan-fried in soy sauce with a hint of chili. It is your standard fried noodle dish, but is good for sensitive stomachs because it is not spicy, heavy or too oily.

Just off the main road in Ubud is Warung Mina, specializing in seafood dishes. Ubud is at least an hour away from the coast, but no matter. Being a large group sitting crowded in one of the dining huts, we opted for a couple of the specialty fish platters. There was one grilled fish, a fried fish, tempe, raw sambal, sambal, a sort of fish cake, other smaller fish, kang kong greens, and other raw vegetables. The fried fish was cooked in coconut oil while the grilled fish had a lighter taste. Personally, I prefer the grilled fish since the coconut oil does not bode well with me for some reason. With the large platter, each bite can carry a different combination of items such as tempe with grilled fish and the acidic sambal. It gives you the opportunity to test out different combinations of flavors making the consumption of this place a great adventure that rapidly ends as your fellow diners are demolishing the plate at a similar, energetic rate.

The bule crew in Ubud was raving about the soto ayam at Mangga Madu's. Soto ayam is a soup with chicken and some glass noodles or basically an Indonesian version of chicken noodle soup. It is not intended to be a main course (at least at this establishment) so the portion is small. The soup is not spicy at all, but the server will bring sambal if you so desire. The broth is flavorful and lines your insides with a comforting warmth. The chicken was not anything outstanding though, more serving as a source of protein lending its flavors to the broth. Considering the strong flavors associated with Indonesian cuisine, the soto ayam seemed relatively weak, but is a pleasant break from the traveler's grind.

So there we have it. I finally was able to try some of the items offered on what seemed to be every menu in Indonesia.

Coral Beach Bungalows 2. Gili Trawangan, West Nusa Tenggara, Indonesia
Warung Indonesia. The Village, Gili Trawangan, West Nusa Tenggara, Indonesia.
Warung Ijolumut. Jl. Sugriwa 14X, Ubud, Bali, Indonesia. http://www.ijolumut-ubud.com/
Warung Mina, Ubud, Bali, Indonesia
Mangga Madu. Jl. Gunung Sari No. 1, Ubud, Bali, Indonesia. Tel: (0361) 977334

Naughty Nuri's Pork Barbecue Spare Ribs

2010-11-14T18:56:00.000-08:00

In Jakarta, while my host was making this extensive list of dishes you have to try that are unique to a city in Indonesia, the rave reviews of the spare ribs at Nuri's stood out the most. It could be that the portion was so generous, one person could barely finish the rack. It could also be that the pork is so tender that it slips right off the bone. Or maybe the sweet sauce slathered on the ribs when they are cooking. Maybe the 70,000Rp price tag could be a deterrant for one Indonesian or a gastronomic investment with high returns. Either way, these ribs must have made a strong impression. After reaching Ubud, I had to stay true to my promise that I would visit Nuri's Warung to taste the prized deliciousness of pork flesh. The location of the restaurant is said to be "20 minutes walking from the center," at least according to the guy at the front desk who takes his motobike everywhere, even to go 20 meters around the corner. It did not look so far on the map, but it was a far trek and the journey seemed even longer since it was raining. If that much pork was supposed to be consumed, the least we could do for ourselves is burn a few calories beforehand. At the entrance of the restaurant, there is a vat of pork spare ribs already brined, seasoned, pre-cooked, or whatever has to be done to get the ribs ready for the grill. Once the order is placed, the ribs are placed immediately on the grill and the aroma swirls through the entire open-air restaurant. You can hear a faint sizzle from the sugars in the sauce caramelizing on your ribs. The ribs are served alone with no frills except for a wedge of lemon. If you want any sides, that will be added to your tab. My host was right. The spare ribs were tender, juicy, falling off the bone, and had a slight caramelization from the grill. Yum. The plate looked huge, but I managed to polish it off easily sparing no shred of meat. It was well worth the splurge if you are on a budget. Happy and full, the walk back in the pouring rain reminds you just how much that trek outside of the center of Ubud was worth it for those ribs.

Nuri's Warung and Grill, Jl Raya Sangiggan (opposite the Neka Art Museum half way up the hill heading north out of Ubud), ☎ +62 361 977547. 10AM-11PM daily.

Ibu Oka Babi Guling

2010-11-06T20:08:00.000-07:00

Java chooses beef, but in Bali, pork reigns. Babi guling or suckling pig is the ultimate Balinese dish that made Warung Ibu Oka Babi Guling famous, now a site of foodie pilgrimage in Ubud (at least the Chowhounders or other tourists claim so and the push from Anthony Bourdain does not hurt either). The slow-cook spit-roasting process results in tender meat and crispy skin. This quest for babi guling was another solo mission backed by determination to taste luscious pork.

I sat down at a table with two other small parties finishing their meals. I opted for the Babi Guling Special plate at 30,000Rp and an iced tea with no sugar. The menu centers around all that can be created from the roasted pig, particularly the skins and meat. There was another set plate at 50,000Rp that came with soup and the babi guling came out on a heaping portion on a plate separate from the rice, but it looked too filling. The Babi Guling Special was served in one plate. The base is rice, fried pork skin, roasted pork skin, pork meat, a sort of chunky, spiced vegetable sauce or marinade on top of the meat, and a special salad with a sour and bitter hint. Basically, the plate had the best of everything that comes from the roasted suckling pork. For every bite, I tried to create the "perfect" bite by adding a little bit of each thing on the plate to my spoon. The pork was very tender and savory. The pork skins were also extremely crispy and carried a nice flavor from the roasting. The special salad that came with the dish balanced out the flavors and the iced tea finished each bite nicely.

At the time of visiting, there were two locations of Ibu Oka, but the one closest to the center of Ubud was closed, probably due to the royal wedding that was taking place across the street. This location was about 150 meters farther north and in a traditional compound setting. Passing the entrance, there was a truck with three pigs in the back ready for butchering in the open kitchen (with an open sink nearby for washing hands). Diners sat at tables around the compound with strangers and friends. The atmosphere was familial and communal, perfect for this Balinese dining experience.

Ibu Oka Babi Guling, Jalan Suweta (just north of the Jl Raya Ubud-Jl Suweta-Monkey Forest Rd crossroads). Ubud, Bali, Indonesia

Bali Buddha Baked Goods

2010-10-31T21:14:00.000-07:00

Asia has its own form of baked goods, but sometimes you miss that nice classic bakery item from the U.S. of A. or Europe. Guilt may take over as buttery, delicious baked goods and pastries are super caloric and will not contribute to deflating the tire around your waist when you hope to be prancing around the beaches of Indonesia and are already feeling bloated from the fried food. Again, the body is screaming for something healthy. Of if those indulgent pangs are still persistent, at least something deceivingly unhealthy. Bali Buddha in Ubud, Bali, has a cafe, home delivery, and store selling its freshly-baked goods, imported items, and other related products that was reminiscent of a Whole Foods aisle. The store is underneath the cafe, which is made of a lounge section (pictured) and a more formal dining loft area.

The menu is chock full of items that advertise a healthy lifestyle and matching the zen vibe of Bali. The portions are enough to make you 80% full. Lots of health tonics to choose from. Though if you are feeling really ill, it might be better to visit Wayan at her Traditional Balinese Healing Center, popularized by "that book" driving women to Bali in search of their eat, pray, and love.

An amazing feature of the Bali Buddha store is the day-old section in the towering shelves of baked goods. The items placed in this section are pre-packaged from the day before and are sold for half-price. Amazing! Unfortunately, Ubud is an early-rising town so you have to get to the store pretty early for the best selection. Otherwise, there are slim pickings or ::gasp:: none at all. The baked goods are placed in small baskets with a little net over them and you pick and choose what you want. The cinnamon buns were cooked all the way through, a little more dense than fluffy. I would say that the muffins were the best pick of the lot holding together well are light with just the right amount of blueberry or banana. The apple cake was full of shredded apple and had another component that bulked the filling (which was not totally apple, but I cannot put my finger on it). Each bite is satiating and full of fruity surprises. Also really tasty were the cardamom balls, which were a tad savory and not too sweet. The icing on the carrot cake was a little too thick for my taste, coming off the cake in a singular piece. The actual carrot cake part had more than just carrots - most likely pineapple pieces and other fruits as more complex carrot cake recipes do. There were just so many goods to try. The store also has imported and specialty items like locally made mozzarella cheese, herbs, and dried meats, but the baked goods that were a main source of fuel throughout the day is its highlight.

Bali Buddha Ubud Café, Shop & Home Delivery. Jalan Jembawan #1 (across from the Ubud Post Office), Ubud, Mas, Gianyar 80571, Bali, Indonesia. Tel. (0361) 976324 / 978963. www.balibuddha.com

Kafe - A Taste of Healthy Living in Ubud

2010-10-28T00:40:00.000-07:00

The fried foods that permeate my diet in Indonesia has left me craving something healthy and fresh. Ubud is the center of culture and arts in Bali, a beautiful area with rice fields scattered through the traditional Balinese architecture and temples. It seems small, but it is really made up of fourteen villages with the focal point being Monkey Forst Road, Jalan Hanoman, and Jalan Raya Ubud. At an elevation of around 600 meters, it is cooler than the coastal towns, though attracting more of the rain. The relaxing ambiance of Ubud and the convenience of its amenities along with the assortment of shops, restaurants, cultural events, and arts makes it a bit of an expat magnet in Bali. The Zen-like nature and affinity to preserve what is there makes Kafe a natural fit in Central Ubud. It is a comfortable place to lounge around and spend the whole afternoon reading, working, using their wifi, meeting with friends, and relaxing. Kafe promotes a healthy lifestyle with its environmentally conscious policies choosing not to serve drinks with plastic straws, advocating Bali Storm Brewery local beers, using organic products, as well as hosting community-oriented events. The major attraction at Kafe is its cafe culture and delicious, healthy vegetarian (and non-vegetarian) cuisine.

The food at Kafe is fresh and it does not make you feel guilty in the least for making your order (unless that is in excess). Some of the portions seemed unfairly small, especially compared to the price of a bigger meal you can get at a local warung. My first meal there was off the "Bowl Food" section of their menu (not listed online) which was a bowl of lentils and rice with broccoli and cauliflower florets flavored with curry spices, which made the dish a deep gold color. It came with a side of yogurt and the contrast between cool and warm made the eating experience very interesting. The Banana Spice Smoothie with hazelnut and nutmeg (21,000Rp) complimented the meal well, though the texture of the smoothie was very thin, giving the impression only a few spoonfuls of banana were actually in the smoothie. I also tried the Vegetarian Lumpia (23,000Rp) with tofu, ginger, spinach and mushrooms served with lemongrass dipping sauce. There were only 2 lumpias on the well-presented plate and each disappeared in a few bites. I liked the meaty quality the mushroom brought to the filling chock full of vegetables. The Grilled Vegetable and Feta Sandwich (37,000Rp) served warm and open-faced came with fried cassava chips. The feta cheese on this sandwich was generously scooped on top mixed with sun-dried tomato and basil. The vegetables in the sandwich were a tower of zucchini, aubergine, tomato, onion, and leafy greens that hid the small piece of country bread underneath. The vegetables were not too oily and cooked all the way through. This sandwich was best eaten with a knife and fork.

The food, drink, ambiance, and philosophy of Kafe is one to experience whilst invigorating and re-energizing the spirit and body in Ubud.

Kafe. Kafe, next to Tegun Galeri, at Jalan Hanoman # 44B, Padang Tegal, Ubud, Bali, Indonesia. Tel. +62 361 7803802 or kafe@balispirit.com. www.balispirit.com/kafe.

McFlurry In Indonesia

2010-10-28T00:19:00.000-07:00

McDonald's are everywhere. Really. However, the McFlurry is not always available. Only until this summer did the McDonald's in China show the first signs of the McFlurry with Oreo and M&Ms. I was pleased to find a unique flavor in Indonesia, outside of the standard Oreo and M&Ms (which indeed was offered on another less prominent menu). The two flavors that these McDonald's showcased are Caramel Crunch and Coffee Crunch and cost more than the standard McFlurry flavors at 7000 Rupiah. The size of the McFlurry is significantly smaller in Indonesia compared to its American counterparts and the servings are sadly more conservative. The "crunch" part of the McFlurry is broken up pieces of waffle cone and tiny bits of chocolate chip. There was also a nice swirl of caramel for the Caramel Crunch McFlurry. Some servers remembered to actually do the "Flurry" part of the McFlurry putting it in the mixing machine, some mixed only part way, and some mixed it well, all of which showed an inconsistency in the training of the art of the McFlurry. The Caramel Crunch McFlurry was very sweet, appealing to sweet-toothed Indonesians, and had a lot of flavors and textures with the waffle cone, hard chocolate bits, and gooey caramel. The waffle cone was not stale at all and did not turn soft after being in the ice cream during the consumption process. The chocolate chips were very small and tasted as though there was a higher cacao percentage from its slightly bitter quality. Using milk chocolate would have made the McFlurry too sweet instead of rich. If only the caramel was a little bit thicker to create a better ribbon effect in the white soft serve because it just mixed with the soft serve resulting in a melted caramel ice cream soup. But where the soft serve did hold together, it was quite lovely, especially when taking a break from the hot midday sun.

Rujak Es Krim - An Array of Tastes

2010-10-25T19:45:00.000-07:00

Hot, sunny, midday heat in Yogyakarta weighs you down with beads of sweat forming on your forehead. Water does not suffice this urge to cool down as your body craves greater substance as it slowly dehydrates. Enter rujak es krim toted around by a kaki lima or street cart, most likely found in the morning and early afternoon. Rujak es krim is made of rujak, the assortment of fruits including sour mango, papaya, apple, cucumber, and pineapple that is combined with es puter, traditional Indonesian ice cream. Es puter means "stirred ice cream" and is made of coconut milk and sugar. The sauce is made of palm sugar, lime juice, salt, and chilies, though I could have sworn there was a hint of tamarind in there. Mixed together, the combination of ingredients creates a cornucopia of flavor inviting sweet, sour, bitter, spicy, and salty to this party. The vendor makes it fresh in front of you chopping up the fruits and grinding the spicy paste using a wooden mortar. The onslaught of flavors satisfies hunger (and dehydration to a point) while thrilling your tongue.

Eating in Yogyakarta, Central Java, Indonesia

2010-10-24T18:34:00.000-07:00

Yogyakarta is a hot spot in Java for foodies. Any traveler you come across will say, "There is great food in Yogyakarta." It is a cultural center in Java close to the ocean and has several historic sites as well as surrounding nature to enjoy, such as climbing the steep slopes of Mt. Merapi. As the city is so big, it attracts people from all over, contributing to the growing diversity of flavors in the city. The cuisine in Yogyakarta is characterized by a sweetness, similar to the characteristic flavor of Shanghai (also sweetness). Being in Indonesia, you can still get the fiery chili taste with any local dish. Just ask for it (or the omittance thereof).

Going for something on the healthy side, attempting to stray away from all that is fried (a difficult task), I was taken Warung Pecel Madiun for nasi pecel madiun. In English, I was told it is a "traditional Indonesian salad." It is not exactly salad in the traditional sense being served atop a serving of rice, but it was not considered a hot dish. Pecel is actually a classic Javanese peanut sauce commonly served with vegetables. It was poured atop raw spinach, sprouts, beans, a type of cucumber, and other leaves. On the side was a type of tempe cracker and salt-preserved, shredded meat. The nasi pecel madiun tasted very fresh and the selection of ingredients showcased this. The peanuts gave whole salad a more meaty taste. The pecel sauce also brought some spiciness to the salad, making it more exciting. It was difficult to get the perfect bite in with pecel, vegetable, rice, cracker, and that salted meat on one spoon. The meal as a whole is not heavy at all, even with all the rice. Needless to say, I felt a lot healthier after several meals that centered on something that was fried.

My companion was eager to show me how hot Indonesian food can get, claiming to only eat ayam penyet pedas once a month because it can wreak havoc on the digestive system. Here is to hoping I am not reminded of the meal the following day from something other than memory. Warung Sambal is another simple restaurant in the Yogyakarta area of Sleman. I was told initially that the famous dish is "chicken cooked with hot spices" and not "fried smashed chicken" as the translation implies. However, I was not expecting this. It was a thigh and leg piece of fried chicken, bone in, of course, first boiled with a spice mixture, coconut milk, and lemongrass before it is fried, ensuring that the chicken remains tender. Dark meat is appreciated for its flavor, enhanced further if the bone is in. Asians are more concerned with flavor - not health factor - preferring dark meat over white meat. I did not get the impression that the chicken was cooked with hot spices, but rather a paste dominated by green chili was spread over the fried chicken. Ayam penyet pedas is, indeed, incredibly spicy. You can make it even spicier by asking for sambal. Only the cucumber the chicken came with is able to save the mouth from spontaneously combusting due to the concentration of chili. The rice is only a small way to falsely dilute the scoville level from the chicken. It was really flavorful, though. My innards were screaming from the concentrated bites of heat that it was not used to.

Yogyakarta is most famous for gudeg, a curry made with young jackfruit and coconut milk with chicken. The sugars of the jackfruit give the gudeg its very sweet characteristic. We tried it at a roadside restaurant called Warung Kayu, popular for late-night eating. It is a simple wooden structure with all the food laid out in the middle and an old woman scooping up gudeg and ripping chicken bits onto your plate with her bare hands (slightly horrifying for the germaphobes out there). Whatever. You are in Indonesia, so this is something you have to get over. There goes the rice, the gudeg, slices of tempe, egg, and a big piece of chicken. Looking at the gudeg, it appears to be brown slop after taking in color from teak leaves, but do not let that deter you. It goes down nicely with the sweetened ice tea, which can be asked for unsweetened. The gudeg was really tasty and not as sweet as I originally imagined, most likely because the jackfruit was not completely ripe at its height of sweeetness. The combination of spices used in cooking while the coconut milk boiled down to almost nothing gave the gudeg extra depth appealing to other taste palates. The chicken was also very tender and moist taking in the flavor of the curry. After a taste, you understand why gudeg is very much associated with its mother city of Yogyakarta.

Waroeng Pecel Madiun. Moh. Kahfi II No. 40 A, Jakarta Selatan, DKI Jakarta, Indonesia.

Rotiboy

2010-10-22T01:25:00.000-07:00

The smell is captivating. Warm, fresh from the oven baked goodness tickles and tempts olfactory glands. The sweet aroma makes your stomach growl and the queues at the stand for the buns pulled directly from the oven show reflect how tasty it is. Rotiboy is a bakery chain that serves only one thing: Rotiboy. There are other variations to choose from, but you can only get the original Rotiboy bun hot from the oven about any time of day. The Rotiboy chain also offers other types of pastries and sandwiches, but what made it famous is the Signature Rotiboy Original Bun, which is also likened to the "Mexican Bun." Butter, milk, flour, water, sugar, salt, and coffee are combined and baked resulting in a sweetly divine, round bun with a hint of coffee and an artery clogging buttery center. Rotiboy was founded in Penang, Malaysia and has expanded to stores in Indonesia, South Korea, and Thailand.

I stood in line patiently as the bakers expertly removed the buns from the oven in pairs putting one each into a bag. There are directions on the bag on how to enjoy your Rotiboy at home like it was fresh from the oven (pre-heat oven to about 180°C and heat for about 10 minutes) and where else to find it in Indonesia. Each bun cost 7000Rp. The smell was thrilling and comforting at the same time. The first bite was warm and the spongy, sweet cake melts along your tongue as you chew. The crust is barely firm and hints of coffee linger along your taste buds and nostrils. Reaching the center, you bite into a sinfully buttery middle that is slightly gooey. It is fabulously doughy. Yum. What a great start to the day. What a great part of the day for my stomach!

If you are looking for a recipe, try this one from House of Annie or this one. I do not recall seeing a topping (someone commented about this in the posts) piped onto the dough, but rather the dough resting and waiting for baking in temperature-controlled storage units. Maybe this was added right before baking.

Rotiboy. Multiple locations. www.rotiboy.com

Hallo! Hallo, Bandung!

2010-10-19T18:33:00.000-07:00

Climbing to the top of the ridge, you reach Punclut where a long row of restaurants overlook the city of Bandung. Volcanic mountains surround the city which lies in a basin. At night, the view is especially beautiful as the city sparkles with light reminiscent of moonlight bouncing off the ripples on a lake. Hordes of motobikes are parked on both sides of the small road as each traditional restaurant is packed with diners seated on mats on the restaurant floors. The food served is Sundanese and we pick out what we want to eat from the mostly prepared food for them to finish cooking. After choosing a prime spot to sit to take in the view, we are given a kobokan, a bowl of water with a lime so we can clean our hands before and after the meal. Sundanese food is traditionally eaten with hands, so the kobokan was completely necessary. We were also given sambal, red rice, and fresh greens. Bites of cucumber provide a cool, fresh break that relieves your mouth from the spiciness. The most interesting thing I had was what seemed to be small intestines or strips of some sort of pork part that are fried and served wrapped up in a banana leaf. It gave an extra salty bite to supplement the spiciness and sweetness. The savory fried corn cake was reminiscent of Filipino ukoy with hints of shrimp flavor. The sambal tasted slightly sweet to me, but I am not sure of what else is used to prepare it to give this hint of sweetness that apparently only I could taste. Great food, awesome views, and good conversation always makes an excellent night.

On Sunday, it is a car-free day along Jalan Dago. It is a great place to bike, walk, protest, demonstrate, and perform. Nearby is a weekend market where several stands serve Sundanese food and at a cheap price: 8000 Rupiah for a full meal. Hygiene standards may not be up to par for most Western travelers. Pushing those thoughts aside, the filling meal is really cheap and is a very Indonesian experience.

Eats in Jakarta, Java, Indonesia

2010-10-19T01:42:00.000-07:00

Landing in Jakarta, the idea of getting real Indonesian food was absolutely thrilling. Every time anyone heard of my venture to Indonesia, the reaction commonly, "Oh my Gawd! You're going there? The food is so good. You have to try..." Oh yes, growling and ready, my stomach was ready (and hopefully prepared against food poisoning) to digest amazing food.

Upon arrival, my initial reaction was that Indonesian food was a lot like Filipino food with a spicier kick. There was an evident preference for frying things. Also, rice was a main part of the meal rather than a supplement to further fill you up.

Meals in Jakarta were spent primarily in the Kemang district, where my host is located. The neighborhood is full of restaurants, shops, bars and night clubs, though it appeared that many of them had gone out of business due to the number of boarded up store fronts. Kemang may not be the most charming district, but it is convenient. It once was an expat hot spot due to the affordability of nearby villas. My host informs me that most of the expats have left, but does not know where they moved to.

First meal was at a late-night Sundanese restaurant called Nasi Uduk Kebon Kacang, a short drive from the center of Kemang district. Sundanese food includes cities of Bogor, Bandung, and Sukabumi. It was about 02:00 and most other places were closed or closing. Most of the food is already prepared (mid-day) or cooked except for the final step. You choose what you like and they will bring it to your table. Accompanying snacks, nasi uduk or rice with coconut milk (originally from Jakarta) wrapped in a banana leaf, and bottled drinks laid on the table. We had some grilled chicken, a sort of dried or preserved beef, and tempe. This was really delicious and light. Apparently, it is made from a cultured and fermentation process that binds soybeans together into a cake which is then sliced and fried. The result is a crispy, firm exterior and soft interior. It has a light, nutty flavor. The best part is that it is healthy for you being high in protein and fiber. Anyway, at the end of the meal, you pay for what you eat. It is very straight forward. Just tell the server what you ate and they calculate the price accordingly.

Padang cuisine(from the Minangkabau people) is the capital of West Sumatra. Pulling up, Restoran Padang had a steady trickle of motobikes pulling up with patrons asking for their nasi padang wrapped up for take away. The server scoops up some rice on a plate lined with paper and the patron points out what they want from the prepared food. I chose singkong (cassava leaf) as the primary vegetable with sambal hijau, the chili sauce, and topped off with beef rendang. The cooked cassava leaf had a nice, fibery texture and had a fiery tingle from the sauce. There was also other green vegetables that were more bitter in flavor like they were pickled, but also equally very spicy. The beef was very tender, though slightly drier than expected, but the sauce left from the evaporated coconut milk and spices was incredibly savory. Now this is a way better "fast food" option.

The Kemang Food Festival on Jalan Kemang Raya is an open-air (though covered) food court with multiple food stands with Indonesian food, steak, Italian, American, and Japanese. I felt a bit adverse to this food hall, but my host insisted on eating here for the variety of choices. Sit down at one of the wooden picnic tables in the courtyard and dozens of servers representing each vendor will surround you while you peruse the thick binder of menus. They patiently wait for your order and only one lucky server will return to the respective kitchen with your order. Out of the big menu book, my host chose for me Soto Jakarta, a soup with the coconut milk, vegetables, and meat accompanied by a banana leaf packet of rice. The rice soaked up the soup beautifully. The soup was slightly sweet, yet very spicy and penetrated the flavor of the meat and vegetables, which were not overcooked. Yum.

The foodie adventure in Indonesia is just beginning and we're only in Jakarta.

Noodle Bull Revisited

2010-10-18T02:50:00.000-07:00

With most expats still raving about Noodle Bull, the place deserved a second visit. It was a choice of ordering the same noodle soup again and seeing if it just happened to be that day's batch of broth. Fear still struck from the bland (and MSG-lacking) broth from the first visit, a soupless noodle dish was selected instead. The vegetarian sesame paste noodles were much more enjoyable than the noodles in beef soup. It came with julienned carrots, cucumber, and egg. You just mix everything up in the bowl. The combination was light, yet completely satisfying.

In addition to the sesame paste noodles, I tried the pork and beancurd side as well as their take on kimchi. The pork and beancurd side completed the depth of the meal, especially if you are hankering for something more substantial and meaty. The kimchi, however, did lack the extra spicy kick, but was a welcomed presence in central Shanghai were decent Korean food is scarce.

At least now I know one of my default options if I do happen to be coerced into going to Noodle Bull again. Maybe one day the broth will present itself as a better memory to erase the old one.

Noodle Bull. 1f3b, No.291 Fumin Road, Xuhui District, Shanghai, People’s Republic of China. 上海市徐匯區富民路291號悟錦世紀大樓1F3B

Breakfast Sandwich at Boulange

2010-09-16T02:16:00.000-07:00

Early morning walking through Hayes Valley in the conflicting state of breakfast or sandwich, I walked into La Boulange. From the street you could see several diners inside reading the morning paper or working remotely and people queueing for a breakfast order, coffee, or pastry to go. Relatively large numbers of patrons in one place is promising. It turns out that La Boulange is actually a chain bakery in San Francisco, but this fact did not seem to deter regular customers.

The menu on the wall had the perfect breakfast sandwich to appease cravings for an American breakfast and a sandwich. It was hard to choose when the healthier yogurt options and tempting The egg and cheese sandwich (US$7.00) comes with tomato and a choice of bacon, ham, smoked salmon, or avocado on crossaint, plain or multigrain country bread with fresh fruit. My order had bacon with multigrain bread. If only the order could have come with all the options because I would have liked to try them all (without paying extra)...at least the avocado. It was hearty, but the bread was a little on the dry side causing slight abrasion in my mouth whilst chewing. There was not enough fluffy egg to balance the dryness or the addition of avocado could have helped. As much as I enjoyed eating this breakfast with the residents of Hayes Valley, this is something to try to recreate at home.

La Boulange Bakery. 500 Hayes Street (by Octavia), San Francisco, CA 94102, United States.

Golden Boy Pizza

2010-09-13T23:51:00.001-07:00

After a couple pints at the local North Beach dive, Northstar Cafe, a friend points out a little pizza shop and says, "They have awesome pizza there, especially after a night of drinking." Outside on a early weekday evening, the queue extended about five deep all waiting for a large square slice (or entire pie). With local beer pumping in our blood, the smell was divine, but not for that night.

San Francisco is full of steep hills and all the going up and down makes thighs burn and stomachs rumble although benefitting your gluts. It's time for a mid-day snack and break before climbing Telegraph Hill to end a day of roaming that started at 08:00. The large sign pointing to Golden Boy Pizza is like a push from divinity telling you this is where you need to go. Taking a peek in the window, there are a few large, rectangular pies to entice the passerby. The crust looks thick and apparently is made of focaccia bread. The pizzas are loaded with toppings to match the girth of the crust.

From the till, the pesto vegetarian looks the best so I get a slice of that (US$3.50). Dinner is too close to get a more filling slice with meat. The server puts the slice in the oven to heat. It seems like most of the service is geared toward take away orders as there is not much space to dine in. My pesto vegetarian comes out hot and I am allowed to sprinkle as much oregano on it as I want (also parmesan cheese and pepper flakes are available) before the server wraps it up in paper. Consuming the slice will distract from the strenous uphill walk I am about to face. On closer inspection, there is a lovely layer of pesto with tomatoes, red onion, zucchini, mushrooms, and olives on top with the right amount of mozzarella. The vegetables are nicely roasted from the oven and not soggy. The paper was getting a little greasy, but at least not dripping in oil. It is decidedly a very California-influenced pizza, more Californian than classic Italian, but still looking really delicious and colorful. The first bite is vegetarian pizza joy. The crust was still crispy though thick, the pesto still present and not competing with either the crust and the toppings, and the vegetables tasted ripe and fresh. The slice is a bit on the heavy side and it was difficult to keep from flopping one way or another walking uphill. At least the paper managed to catch the toppings that fell off so not one shred of this pizza was left behind. The slice from Golden Boy is a great quick bite to walk away with.

Golden Boy Pizza. 542 Green Street, North Beach, San Francisco, CA 94133, United States. Telephone: +1.415.982.9738. Hours: Sunday-Thursday 11:30-23:30, Friday-Saturday 11:30-02:30. www.goldenboypizza.com

The Northstar Cafe. 1560 Powell Street (corner of Powell & Green), San Francisco, CA 94109, United States. Telephone: +1.415.397.0577. Hours: 13:00-02:00. Happy Hour: Monday-Friday 13:00-20:00. www.thenorthstarsf.com

The American Grilled Cheese Kitchen

2010-09-12T22:10:00.000-07:00

Sitting in the baggage claim area of San Francisco International, a lone dismantled magazine covered with tidbits of the city's offerings beckons. Having done no prior research to arrival, The American Grilled Cheese Kitchen jumps out from the rest, not only by its reasonable price but that the restaurant specializes in unique versions of the snack and meal that defined more youthful years. It is thrilling that as restaurants become more specialized, its fare must correlate to its level of specialization in order to survive (or so I would like to think). As it turns out, I was going to a San Francisco Giants baseball game the following day during the lunch hour on a rare sunny day in the packed AT&T park that made you wonder if people really worked in this city or were just playing hooky.

A rare, unusually warm sunny day walking through San Francisco toward the Giants stadium passing through South Park admiring the charm and coveting a Public bicycle en route, I finally arrive at the front of the American Grilled Cheese Kitchen. The historical landmark building casts a shadow on its sidewalk dining area where airline pilots, tourists, Giants fans, and locals are lunching. There are even game day specials for drinks and organic iced tea. It is a little before noon and plenty of time to walk those few extra blocks to the stadium.

The walls are decorated in grilled cheese memorabilia, the menu on black chalkboard and has an overall focus on being local, sustainable, organic, environmentally aware, and green or all things representative of the ultimate San Franciscan emanating from the cozy decor of the interior. The line was short so before I was decided, I was already talking to the woman at the till. She tells me that the owner's favorite is the Black n' Blue - gorgonzola dolce, monterey jack, roast beef, arugula, balsamic onion marmalade, and sage butter. However, this is being replaced with the regular menu item Don Gondola of provolone, sopressatta salami, pesto, and garlic butter. She tells me the Jalapeño Popper (US$9.00) is her favorite. Though not a particular fan of jalapeños and definitely not one to seek them out, I oblige to her recommendation. At first, I hesitate being so long without cheese and wondering if a bite filled with too much ooey gooey dairy would result in something the opposite of digesting. She says she can tell the kitchen to go light on the cheese, but wanting the full experience, I opt not to. I am already thinking I should have ordered the Red, White, and Blue Plate Special (US$8.00 or +$1 for sandwiches over $8.00) to try their organic house-made tomato soup with crème fraîche and croutons. The house sodas (US$3.00) sounded really appealing, but all I wanted was a taste.

I sat at the counter overlooking the kitchen window where the sandwiches are apparently toasted - not grilled - and employees are quickly filling orders pouring soup or adding a couple luscious strawberries to each sandwich order. In a case of not-so-mistaken identity, it turns out Nate Pollak is one of the owners of this place, though looking somewhat different from his university years. Already impressed by the mere venture of grilled cheese, its obvious success is equally impressive. My jalapeño popper made of chèvre, monterey jack, applewood-smoked bacon, and apricot-jalapeño relish arrives in a basket lined with brown paper and the presentation is given a colorful splash from the plump California strawberry I plan to conclude my meal with. The hearty country wheat bread is perfectly toasted with a crisp layer of caramelization which also keeps the contents of the sandwich from oozing and making the bread fall apart. Each bite is incredible. There is a perfect balance of cheese, bread, bacon, and jalapeño with no one flavor or texture overwhelming the other. The jalapeño-apricot combination was surprising, balancing the heat with sweetness and bringing out the subtle nuttiness of the salty cheese. The cuts of applewood-smoked bacon were thick and gave the grilled cheese a meaty depth. Sad as it was to see the sandwich end, each bite was strategically chosen so the last bite would be the perfect one balancing all the flavors.

As I am eating, the line is growing out the door regardless of how fast these people are grilling / toasting, packing, and registering orders. Just hearing patrons order different sandwiches makes me extremely curious to dive more into the menu. Alas, another time. Already waiting in great anticipation for the next visit after crossing the Pacific in the unforeseeable future.

The American Grilled Cheese Kitchen. 1 South Park Avenue, Suite 103A, San Francisco, CA 94107, United States. Telephone: +1.415.243.0107. Hours: Mon-Fri 8am-3pm, Sat 9am-3pm. www.theamericansf.com

Cheese Shop Sandwich

2010-09-09T02:22:00.000-07:00

After spending an extensive amount of time in Asia, cravings for a good sandwich start to magnify. Sandwiches are not showcased as a lunch-time meal (or any for that matter) so its presence and consistency is practically non-existent. The best sandwiches in Shanghai are at City Deli, better for ordering in than eating there. The turkey avocado is still outrageously priced for a standard sandwich at 68RMB (about US$10.00), but at least is large and incredibly filling.

Pleading to fellow Chowhounders on the message board, I was directed to the The Cheese Shop.

It was late in the afternoon. Promptly seated, I asked the server which sandwich he would recommend and told him to fix it however he would like it. He was surprised I let him have free range on my lunch, but seeing as he serves and sees numerous sandwiches in a day, he should know what is best. Sometimes you have to take a leap of faith when the idea of the ultimate sandwich has been marred by poorly constructed ones in Asia. I got the turkey avocado on wheat with salt and vinegar chips on the side. The sandwich was packed with slices of ripe, creamy avocado and deli turkey. The untoasted wheat bread could barely contain its contents. For my personal preference, a more hearty bread could have been chosen such as the ciabatta or thick rustic (an error on the diner's part). It was one big bite of sandwich goodness. The only thing it lacked was the crispy bacon I neglected to ask for to give the sandwich an extra crunch (or bites of the salt and vinegar chips could suffice). Yum. That avocado really topped it off.

My friend ordered the spinach and feta cheese omelette with a side of hash browns, which was generous with the spinach and feta. The hash browns were browned nicely, not so spectacular and the omelette good for what it was. The serving was large and filling, but perhaps these eyes have been used to Asian-sized portions for a while.

The cost of my sandwich in the States was about as much as its Shanghainese equivalent. Considering the current standards of living in the States compared to China, the City Deli sandwich is relatively overpriced however tasty it is. A return visit to the Cheese Shop is needed to try one of the Cheese Shop Grilled Cheese Sandwiches because it is, after all, a cheese shop.

The Cheese Shop. 627 4th Avenue. San Diego, CA 92101, United States. Telephone: +1.619.232.2303. Hours: Mon-Fri 7 a.m. - 4 p.m., Sat-Sun 8 a.m. - 4 p.m. www.cheeseshopdeli.com

Cucina Urbana

2010-08-31T21:10:00.000-07:00

After passing on Laurel Restaurant for its high-priced menu, Cucina Urbana popped up giving those in the down economy a light with its reasonably priced rustic Italian dishes with a Californian touch. Rave reviews and word of mouth contributed to the popularity of the restaurant. Calling in Tuesday morning for reservations that evening, tables were already booked out aside from early and late dinner times. Seeing the packed dining room and bar, there was no way you could get a seating without a reservation.

The wait staff was very personable, friendly, and welcoming even though we were late arrivals and walk-ins were vying for our table. They invite diners to visit their wine retail store / "private" dining room as they only charge US$7.00 corkage fee for bottles purchased at retail. Excellent! The wine selection and menu placed a heavy emphasis on hot catch words like "organic," "local," and "sustainable." The food menu also featured daily specials for those looking for dining deals. The concept of the establishment was well-thought out. Diners help their tummies, their banks accounts, and the world.

The two starters we ordered were the barbecue octopus with salted fingerling potato, endive, radish, chili herb vinaigrette and lemon aioli ($11.00) and stuffed squash blossoms (herb ricotta) with purple basil pesto and cured lemon dressing ($9.50). The barbecue octopus was incredibly tender and not tough at all, especially after expecting a texture somewhat similar to tako from previous octopus experiences. It was meaty, yet very light and had a light smokey flavor from the charring. The salad also had a bit of baby octopus or some other cephalopod, which was a little bit chewier. The endives gave a nice crunch to the otherwise softer textures on the plate. The stuffed blossoms were amazing and light, not over-breaded. The pesto served as a savory compliment to the the saltiness from the ricotta and tang from the lemon dressing. The stuffed blossoms really hit the spot.

Each main course was selected one from each area of the menu: pasta, piatti, and pizza. The crab ravioli seemed promising, but fell flat when it came to the actual crab filling. The crab was a little bit dry and could have benefitted from using chunks instead of whatever was centrifuged from the shells. However, the buttery sauce and cheese in the filling did not overwhelm the crab flavors allowing the crab to be the star of the dish. The tower of thickly sliced aubergine in the eggplant 'parmigiana' with gigante bean and escarole salad and shaved grana ($15.50) was easy to cut into. The eggplant was not bitter had a thick, breaded, crispy crust and layered with fine slices of mozzarella complimented with a light sauce using fresh and flavorful tomatoes. The fig and gorgonzola pizza with caramelized onion, candied pecan, arugula, and aged balsamic ($14.00) had a lovely, charred crust. The toppings were mostly hidden by the forest of arugula, but the peppery green did not overwhelm the entire pizza. Each bite was a surprise of sweet and savory from the ripe, deep-colored figs and the bite of the sweet balsamic acid. This combination was particularly pleasant for warmer summer days.

Dessert came out and we shared the bittersweet chocolate bundino ($8.00). The chocolate was incredibly rich and you can taste the higher percentage of cacao. The chocolate was creamy and smooth. Two small bites were almost too much, but chocoholics would definitely love this dessert. The espresso ($3.50) rounded off the meal nicely.

Looking around at the end of the early dinner, the dining room and bar were seated primarily by women sipping summer whites and roses and sharing antipasti plates. The occasional male present was claimed by a female counterpart by the looks of the suggestive body language. Regardless, Cucina Urbana definitely has the food and ambiance at a great price to make this a regular spot.

Cucina Urbana. 505 West Laurel Street San Diego, CA 92101-1634, United States. +1.619.239.2222. Open Tue-Thu 5pm-10pm; Fri-Sat 5pm-12am; Sun 5pm-9pm. www.cucinaurbana.com

Cafe Chloe

2010-08-30T19:36:00.001-07:00

I actually came to Cafe Chloe several years ago when it first opened and the East Village was being gentrified as a hipper, more local alternative to the Gaslamp. A friend and I came late for a dessert of creme brulee and a bottle of sparkling wine to once again celebrate the fact that neither of us had money to spend. Flash-forward a few years later. The Chowhound boards are buzzing with recommendations for Cafe Chloe and the small wine bar established itself as a dining destination in San Diego.

On a Monday evening, the small restaurant was able to accommodate a party of three outside, though smashed around a tiny table. The "larger" tables inside were not that much bigger. With nice weather, it is nicer to sit outside anyway. The restaurant does not take reservations for smaller parties. Promptly seated, the server immediately asks what we would like to drink and even offers a small sampling of a few wines to accompany the meal. This detail of service is amazing because we got to choose a wine that suited our palates. Ended up going with a medium-bodied red to match the variety of dishes we selected created by chef Katie Grebow.

We shared the starter of the corn and smoked mozzarella tart with pickled shallot ($8.75), which was then cut into thirds for sharing. The corn added a sweet taste to the meatiness of the smoked mozzarella. Its summery taste matched the ambiance and was a good start for the dinner.

After some time as each dish is made to order, the entrees eventually came out. The local white sea bass with ragout of summer vegetables, herb salad, espellette pepper sauce, grilled ciabatta ($23.00) was lightly overcooked as we saw it sitting under the heat lamp waiting for the other dishes to finish preparation. The sea bass had a thick crust, but the fish inside was not light and flaky, but rather dry. The fish should have been prepared last out of the other dishes. Ordering the steak & frites with roquefort, onion marmalade, and sautéed spinach and wild mushroom ($21.75) also meant that Cafe Chloe will donate $1.00 to the S.D Food Bank's Food for Kids' Backpack Program, at least during the month of August. The steak was more on the rare side than the requested medium-rare, but was still succulent with the generous chunks of roquefort. The frites were also well-executed and added a new texture in between bites of steak. Also on the side were the spinach and a variety of tender wild mushrooms. The plat du jour: choucroute garnie- fresh cherries & brandy pork sausage, brined pork loin, spiced pork belly, sauerkraut and butterball potatoes ($23.00) showcased pork in one of its several forms. The pork belly tasted more buttery than spiced - so lusious. Pale in comparison were the sausage, still rich and slightly sweet, and the loin. Full from the dinner, we passed on the dessert.

The foodie mill was right to recommend Cafe Chloe as a great place to dine, but the experience was not as mind-blowing as the hype led it up to be. That was slightly disappointing because I expected each bite to provoke wide-eyed amazement and wonder of the food. Maybe my taste buds have been spoilt by too much foie gras imported from the southwest region of France.

Cafe Chloe. 721 9th Avenue, San Diego, CA 92101-6481, United States. (619) 232-3242. Open Weekdays 7:30am-10:30pm; Sat 8:30am-10:30pm; Sun 7:30am-9:30pm. www.cafechloe.com

Cabbie Pit Stop at 春和面馆

2010-08-18T22:47:00.000-07:00

Approaching the entrance of the large kitchen + seating area = restaurant, a Shanghai cabbie loudly clears his throat and spits on the already filthy stairs stairs. Another is washing his face at the outdoor sink. By the entrance, another taxi driver fills his thermos with hot water for his tea. The place is crammed with middle-aged men in dark pants, belt, and button-up short-sleeved shirts smoking and inhaling large bowls of soup, noodles, or rice maybe with a few early bottles of Suntory or waiting for a table to do so. Chun He Mian Guan is a taxi driver lunch haven.

Meeting a few friends for lunch, the ladies taking orders at the counter as well as other drivers whisper, "Laowai! Laowai!" to one another pointing out those who are dining. I order the hong shou rou mian at 11RMB, which is a large bowl of soup with noodles and pork steeped in a soy sauce-based sauce. After ordering, you bring the ticket to the hot kitchen where one woman ladels the soup and noodles in a bowl, the other tops it off with greens and meat, and another shoves it in front of you. The method is quite efficient, but only if you manage to force your way to the front and push your order in the server's hands. No real queues to wait in here.

The bowl is large and heavy with noodles cooked to perfection and a generous amount of thickly cut tender and flavorful meat. The broth emits a strong cumin flavor intermixed with coriander leaf. The broth is spicy and flavorful, though slightly sweet, a signature feature of the Shanghainese palate. The broth and taste of the niu rou mian (beef noodle soup) is light in comparison to this one. Already big, the meal is heavy on the stomach. Seeing as each bowl of the hong shou rou mian is 11RMB, the taxi drivers know where good value and tasty meals are at.

Apparently, Chun He Mian Guan is open 24-hours a day so the drivers can get properly fed according to their shifts. Dining is not fancy, but to the point. You are fed well and well-fed. This calls for finding more taxi driver dives in Shanghai.

Chun He Mian Guan (春和面馆). 1081 Changde Lu, near Anyuan Lu 常德路1081号, 近安远路, no phone number, open 24-hours

Dessert at Madison for Qixi 七夕 Festival

2010-08-17T02:17:00.000-07:00

Wholly owned by Austin Hu (who trained at New York's Gramercy Tavern), Madison is one of the latest additions to the fine dining scene in Shanghai. Qixi Festival or "Chinese Valentine's Day" offered a great reason to go out and indulge in a sweet extravagance.

The restaurant was empty for a Monday night around 22:00, but the purpose of the visit was dessert, not a meal. The kitchen closes at 23:00, though they will make concessions if you advise them on time. The room was dimly lit, simple and classy. At the larger tables, there was a thoughful space created in the table for the server so that each dish can easily be hand-placed in front of the diner.

The apple tart fine with goat cheese ice cream and brandy caramel at 60RMB jumped out from the menu. Goat cheese ice cream is an intriguing way to capture the tart sweetness from goat cheese. It did have a sort of gritty texture to it from the goat cheese and the method to make it silky and velvety-smooth is still being refined. The puff pastry used for the apple tart is made in-house although using imported French butter. At the moment, few necessities cannot be compromised and quality butter is one of them. Austin told us that he may switch to Irish butter soon, at least until a suitable China-sourced replacement is found. Anyway, the goat cheese ice cream was melting away on the warm, thin, tart fine. Breaking into the dessert with a spoon, the pastry gives a satisfying crackle. Covered with the caramel sauce, the brandy compliments the apple and goat cheese ice cream well. I would have preferred the brandy caramel to be thicker to match the weight of the puff pastry and goat cheese ice cream.

The server informed us there are 15 different flavors of ice cream all made in-house at 20RMB per scoop. One of them included a Baileys flavor, which was smooth, creamy, and rich, just like the drink. It was adorned with a thin brittle giving a contrast to the smooth ice cream.

The head and humidity of Shanghai summers is offset by this light dessert. The meringue is perfectly cooked through and crispy the whole way through, melting on the tongue against the mulberry sauce and citrus sorbet. Wonderfully light and delicately sweet.

Pairing together the nut ice cream and berry sorbet, your taste buds are transported back to the nostalgia of a good peanut butter and jelly sandwich. The nut ice cream is incredibly creamy and thick, almost like smooth peanut butter, and not artificially sweet. It is so rich and dense, you can hardly believe that this is ice cream. The berry sorbet is dark, fresh, and flavorful to match the richness of the nut ice cream.

After paying the bill, we were offered complimentary cashew brittle cookies with bits of melted toffee. This had to be saved for later, unless gluttony (in the best sense) became overwhelming.

Austin Hu came to the table to see how we liked the dessert and simply talk to us. Hearing his approach to the direction of his restaurant shows that he is looking at fine dining past what he is able to produce on the table. Already, it is impressive that everything is produced in-house, including the lardo he is starting to prepare, as well as focusing on these high-quality ingredients being fresh. More impressive is his goal to source high-quality products locally, at least within China, and extend that to every single part of his restaurant. He sets out to build relationships with the source, a trust that will ensure the consistent quality of the food. Sourcing locally is a trend already with lots of steam in the West and it is nice to see the same attitude displayed in China. New Shanghai chefs tend to be more liberal with sharing their source list, showing that the dining scene is escalating to feature the unique talents of each chef although maybe using the same product as another.

The desserts were amazing. hoF may be the front-runner in most people's minds for chocolate cake and decadance (while still minding a budget), but for the next step in quality and thoughtfulness, the desserts at Madison is where it is at. Looking forward to what else Austin Hu has planned for his menu.

Madison. 3/F, 18 Dongping Lu, near Hengshan Lu, 东平路18号, 近衡山路, Shanghai, People's Republic of China

Xiao Long Bao at Din Tai Fung

2010-08-16T20:13:00.001-07:00

With all the raving about the xiao long bao at Din Tai Fung, it was time to give in to their extraordinary prices to see what all the hype of their xiao long bao with 18 folds is about. Din Tai Fung is a Taiwanese chain and compared to Taiwan, the restaurants in China are upscale and more service-oriented. There was a huge emphasis on presentation as well. Large bamboo steamers are ushered out and the lid is taken off upon arrival with the lids being placed back on the tray to go back to the xiao long bao stuffing room.

The menu displayed a few variations on the xiao long bao. After getting our fresh watermelon juice, we made a selection of four varieties to sample. Each of the steamers were lined with a sort of little cloth tea towel to prevent the dumpling skin from sticking to the bamboo and breaking, releasing all of its precious soup. Finely sliced ginger was served in a little tower to add to the dipping vinegar to taste.

First sampled was the chicken xiao long bao. They were not as pretty as the pork xiao long bao, which arrived at the same time. Usually, when I eat my xiao long bao, I prefer to bite the top off and suck the soup out before consuming the rest of the dumpling. The soup did carry a strong chicken flavor and the dumpling alone was just a ball of ordinary chicken. The chicken xiao long bao seemed better suited for eating whole to allow the chicken broth to burst in your mouth.

The pork xiao long bao was absolutely gorgeous with is delicate 18 folds. The wrapper is super thin and translucent enough that you can see the soup floating inside. The broth tasted very much like pork without the extra salty flavor that you would find from other cheap canteens in Shanghai. The filling was also luscious and meaty.

As mentioned before, the crab xiao long bao was avoided until later in the meal as one holds off on sipping a bold red before going back to a light white wine. The crab filling was not as impressive as the one from Jia Jia Tang Bao, but the Shanghainese hairy crab is also not so much in season. It lacked the abundance of roe and the meat tasted slightly gritty (also characteristic of the Shanghai hairy crab), almost to the point that one would believe there were small pieces of soft shell in it. However, there was no shell as there was no definite crunch, but the texture was a bit more rough rolling around in your mouth.

To round off the xiao long bao sampler, at 78 RMB for a steamer is the black truffle variety. In this case, the black truffle and pork was sampled. As "truffle" is a version of "mushroom," this dumpling seemed to be more "mushroom" than "truffle." The broth was savory and meaty with an added layer of complexity from the mushroom. Upon closer inspection, it appeared that the truffle was layered on top of the pork filling instead of integrated together as a consistent filling, as were its preceding counterparts. Perhaps during the steaming process, the truffle flavor was able to permeate the soup emitted from the pork filling. The black truffle and pork xiao long bao is a fresh variation on the original.

Since the brunch was entirely based on xiao long bao, vegetables were ordered to balance out the meat-loaded part of the meal. Nothing too outstanding, but did give a better nutrition value to the brunch. The spicy wonton dumplings also ordered were a bit too sweet, probably better suited for Shanghainese rather than Taiwanese tastes.

To top off the meal were the peach red bean paste buns. The outside of the steamed buns looked like a white peach with a blush of pink, but tasted nothing like a peach. The bun was flavorless and was only a vessel for the smooth and subtly sweet red bean paste inside.

The experience at Din Tai Fung was highly enjoyable and the service was so impeccable a patron would feel that for once they were given proper care at a restaurant. The servers were eager to help when asked and stayed out of the way as much as possible. At the end of the meal, we were asked to fill out a suggestion card and the server wanted to know precisely what could be improved to better the food in an extremely interested and polite way.

The xiao long bao at Din Tai Fung was very good, but it was hard to order knowing that you are paying around 15rmb per xiao long bao when you can find it cheaper. If it is a battle between Jia Jia Tang Bao and Din Tai Fung, Jia Jia Tang Bao is more for your money as you rub elbows with local Chinese waiting in line.

Din Tai Fung. 1/F, Shanghai Center, 1376 Nanjing Xi Lu, near Xikang Lu 南京西路1376号上海商城1楼, 近西康路. Shanghai, People's Republic of China (other locations in Shanghai / worldwide). www.dintaifung.com.tw/en/

Munchies, But Not After 22:00

2010-08-15T06:54:00.000-07:00

One of the greatest luxuries and conveniences of Shanghai is that you can get practically anything delivered to your door. Along with furniture, plane tickets, and water, this includes food. When you get cravings for something salty and bad for you, what better place to call than Munchies?

Munchies puts more emphasis on its food delivery service than its in-house service, as this Shanghai expat and several others have come to know. Usually, deliveries are made within 30 minutes of ordering, unless it happens to be raining. The entire menu is posted on its homepage featuring American classics like burgers, hot dogs, chili, and sandwiches along with south-of-the-border favorites of quesadillas, burritos, enchiladas and tacos. They also deliver beer, milkshakes, and smoothies. The best thing is - compared to the rest of the American food in Shanghai - everything is cheaply priced (for Western food in Shanghai at least). Amazing!

The hamburgers are constructed well with the beef patty proportional to the size and thickness of its bun. Even after the delivery ride, the bun was not the least bit soggy. The Munchies Cheeseburger is 34RMB and comes with a side (crinkle-cut fries are most requested).

The quesadilla looks as good as it tastes, although it definitely could use more cheese to hold the entire thing together. The vegetables kept falling out during consumption. I swear they used to put more cheese in the quesadillas before. It comes with a little fresh salsa and sour cream. The other "south of the border" menu items are generous in size including the burrito and the even larger Pedro's Feast of three bursting enchiladas. All that is missing is that salsa verde.

The smoothies are pretty tasty as well. They are thick and not weighed down with filler ice or liquid, bringing even more value to the order.

Not for the dieting or health conscious, Munchies can manage to satisfy your salty cravings. They offers free delivery within 1km (or pay 5RMB). During prime hours like weekday lunch, the wait could be longer than 30 minutes, but it is 30 minutes well worth it. If only Munchies was available for order 24/7, especially on weekend nights, when the real late-night munchies kick in full force.

Munchies. 974 Wuding Lu (by Changde Lu), Jing'An District, Shanghai, People's Republic of China. http://www.munchies.cn/

The First Taste of Bulgarian in China

2010-08-15T05:42:00.000-07:00

There are not that many Bulgarians in Shanghai. Neither are there many Chinese in Bulgaria. Bulgarian cuisine is savory, filling, and warming, keeping you cozy through cold winters. The first Bulgarian gastronomic experience should be of no comparison to its next major attempt half-way around the world, but one can still hope.

Vitosha, "the first Bulgarian restaurant in China" opened less than a month ago in the quaint lanes of Taikang Lu. A Bulgarian friend was thrilled by the idea of it, missing home comforts and wanting to show others the best that Bulgaria has to offer. This venture would be continued for Hungarian cuisine, but the Hungarian restaurant in Shanghai has closed. Our palates were itching for the salty, tart, sweet, and cool flavors of a nice shopska salad.

The party of 10 was ushered upstairs where two long tables sat (there was another party of 10 on the second floor). Traditional Bulgarian patterned table cloth and placemats adorned the table and were accented with old world clay vessels holding oil, vinegar, salt, and pepper. The paintings on the wall depicted "typical" Bulgarian winter scenes, but looked like the paintings could have been purchased at kitsch art stores in Minnesota. One of the owners / managers gave us the menu with limited selection that - like most restaurants in Tianzifang - give you major sticker shock. Meat dishes were at least 78rmb going to the 150rmb range for meat plates. Bottles of wine (not Bulgarian) were at least 300rmb. The dishes were not meant for sharing as everyone is expected to eat their own. For prices this high, expectations are that the meal will be good, especially the cheese part! Only a few were able to benefit from the 2-for-1 Carlsberg beer special that evening (available during limited hours). Where's the Bulgarian beer on this menu?

The shopska salad (25rmb) and breaded cheese (40rmb) were the cold and hot starters. The shopska salad had a generous grating of cheese and were in proportion to the tomato, red onion, and cucumber topped off with a single Greek olive. It would be difficult to mess up this classic salad, but its worth could have been improved using high-quality, flavorful vegetables. You just got to wonder where their vegetables are locally sourced from. The breaded cheese was fair, but the breading had no flavor and did not provide a savory shell for the cheese inside. If did, however, go well with the Bulgarian relish, which tasted like roasted red pepper marinara sauce.

Considering the price of each dish was so high, it was in the interest of the group to order less and share what could be managed. The veal and mushroom in gravy (more like a broth) with an egg on top "tasted like pizza," most likely from the use of oregano. The veal was slightly chewy, but the gravy was good for dipping bread in. It is not a very typical Bulgarian dish according to the lone Bulgarian at the table. The chicken in a tomato base with an egg on top served in a clay pot was tender and moist, though small. The pork kebapche was a little on the dry side and the accompanying fries matched its lack of thrill. There was a small dollop of relish on the side to flavor the kebapche with. No one took the rakia at 35rmb per serving to finish the meal with.

The man appearing to run the show at the restaurant looked typically Bulgarian with his greased hair and fitted, fake Dolce and Gabanna t-shirt. His attitude was welcoming, excited, and curious about the first customers the restaurant attracted. Vitosha still may be in its soft opening phase, since they did not have the meat-stuffed peppers or other dishes the Bulgarian asked for. Although only 7 in the party of 10 really ate, the bill was hitting 900rmb and the majority of the group was still hungry. Being the first commercial Bulgarian restaurant in China, the representation was not impressive. Well, we had to try it at least once.

Vitosha. 8 Taikang Lu 248 Nong, 泰康路248弄8号, Shanghai, People's Republic of China. www.vitoshanghai.com

Jishi or Jesse

2010-08-10T02:06:00.000-07:00

The original Jesse. Not New Jesse. Just Jishi (the sign outside says Jesse) or "Old Jesse." The small restaurant split on two low-ceiling levels is famous for its Shanghainese food. After reading so much about it, I finally was able to make reservations at the original location. There were two seatings and we opted for the later one at 19:30. Upon arrival, we were asked to wait a moment before our party of four was crammed into a corner table on the second floor surrounded by tables holding larger parties.

The menu has a poor English translation and could use a pinyin one as well, which could help food travelers pick out the dishes that they hear about. Regardless, the server is able to recommend popular Shanghainese dishes, most of which sat on every table in the restaurant.

The first cold starter was mixed mushrooms and shredded tofu. The tofu had a wonderful, almost meaty texture and hid the the mushrooms hiding underneath in a bath of vinegar and light oil. The dish was light and very satisfying.

This was followed by cold chicken, which was extremely tender and moist, maintaining a subtle, although not bland flavor.

Then came the dates with glutinous rice. This is classically Shanghainese being subtley sweet, yet savory. It was a sweet contrast to the cold chicken and more salty shredded tofu.

The best part of the meal was the Hong Shou Rou or red-braised pork belly. The sauce was thick and sweet with mild caramelization. This is Mao's favorite dish and tasting it, you know why. Bowls of rice where ordered to soak up the sweet and savory sauce the pork meat was stewing in. This is the one of the best hongshourou dishes I have tried, especially since the sauce was thick and dark as well as not being so oily as other versions.

It seemed like the same sauce was used in the Jishi fish, which was charged for per jin or 500 grams. The fish was not overcooked, still tender and moist. The disappointing factor was that the sauce was too similar to that of the hongshourou, which would have otherwise expanded the flavor palette of the night.

The meal was rounded off with some basic stir-fried greens, which were not as exciting nor common as the watercress. Unfortunately for the small table of non-native speakers, the proper name was not remembered at the time of ordering. We also missed out on the river shrimp. But there will always be a next time.

To be honest, I am not sure if they add MSG to the dishes, which most restaurants in China do, but each bite was totally addictive and you cannot help but serve yourself one more small bite. Old Jesse was absolutely amazing, especially if you want a Shanghainese gastronomic experience. It is not the fanciest sit-down restaurant, but the original Jesse is dependable for excellent, affordable Shanghainese food.

Jesse Restaurant. 41 Tianping Road (Middle Huaihai Road) 天平路41号 (近淮海中路), Shanghai, People's Republic of China..

Pizza ToGo

2010-08-08T20:31:00.001-07:00

The comfort of a good Mexican burrito is hard to come by in Shanghai. At the back of a copy shop is a little door with a poster menu proving the existence of Pizza ToGo (or Pizza To Go). There are no tables inside the copy shop. Aside from the poster and small sign on the outside, a passerby would not know of its existence. The "Cal-Mex" burritos get the food chit chat rolling as expats hankering for some cheap Mexican outside of the Chipotle fakery Cantina Agave totes. After an afternoon drink at Cottons, it seemed to be high time to go around the corner and check out what has been raved about.

The prices at Pizza ToGo are cheap. Really cheap. Probably the cheapest burrito in Shanghai with Teotihuacan already being cheap. Although pizza fits its namesake, that day was about the Cal-Mex, "a taste of home without the cost!" Looks good. The burritos range from 18-35RMB depending on if you want the 10 or 12-inch size. Quesadillas were more expensive ranging from 35RMB for the 10-inch cheese to 55RMB for the 12-inch steak (The chorizo quesadilla at Teotihuacan is only 12RMB and quite filling). The menu also displays hot dogs, milk tea, fresh juice, smoothies, chili cheese fries, and other American fast-food treats. After placing the order, the woman tells us in a mixture of Chinese and English

The large chicken burrito is enormous at 30RMB. It is probably better eaten with a fork and knife because of its size. Seeing as the difference between the big and small burritos are 2 inches of tortilla, the small burrito would already be satiating enough. The sight of a real flour tortilla is promising. The first bite reveals seasoned chicken, basic salsa fresca, lima beans, and a lot of rice (you can also get it with cheese, but this was omitted from the order). Actually, the bulk of the burrito is rice, but the rice was good. The chicken was also not too dry. The beans were slightly underdone and the fresh salsa left something to be desired (maybe a jalapeño or two) lacking the spice or punch to give a burrito an extra kick. It would have been better with refried black beans and the option of adding your own hot sauce, salsa verde, or whichever salsa is preferred. This burrito is more of a Cal-Mex quick fix than exciting

The quesadilla was somewhat of a disaster, barely being held together by the fake spray cheese. The texture of the cheese was more gooey than melted, but had a hint of spice to its artificial flavor. It came with bell peppers and mushrooms, which were evenly abundant throughout the quesadilla. The cheese part was just unsatisfying, proving once again how difficult it is to get decent cheese in China.

The woman informed us that there was another location on Wuyi Lu and that Pizza ToGo does free delivery within 2km with a 30RMB order. Pizza ToGo offers a better, cheap option for a Cal-Mex fix, especially if you want to order in.

Pizza ToGo. No. 193 Wulumuqi Nan Lu, Xuhui District. Delivery: 6431-2378 or 15000414787 for English / SMS. 10:30-22:30.

Eggs Benedict at Osteria

2010-08-04T02:29:00.000-07:00

After reading this article on eggs benedict on CityWeekend, I decided I must brunch at Osteria (another Vargas venture) to try their version of eggs benedict, available only during weekend brunch. It was also the cheaper option of the three. Since Greg Gilvison had me try his version of eggs benedict at Kabb, I have acquired a taste for those runny yolks.

For 58rmb, you can order the eggs benedict a la carte. The two poached eggs can come with either salmon, prosciutto (Osteria is Italian), or spinach (eggs florentine). The servers let you mix and match so I elected for the salmon and the spinach.

The plate came out looking impressive. Along with the eggs sitting on Italian bread, there was a small rocket salad with a few grape tomatoes and grilled potatoes. The eggs benedict were generously doused in a rich, creamy, deep yellow hollandaise sauce and sprinkled with freshly cracked black pepper and sea salt. The hollandaise sauce was just tangy enough from the lemon juice, but the citrus presence was not over-powering. The bread was already absorbing the bulk of the sauce. Peeking under the eggs, the salmon is cooked all the way through and still moist.

Cracking into the eggs, it was incredibly disappointing to find that the yolks were cooked all the way through and not gooey or oozing in anyway. Perhaps this was a good sign considering the bread was hitting its maximum absorption point from the hollandaise sauce and the slight fact that the eggs may not have been drained thoroughly enough. Otherwise, the bread would have turned into a semi-solid mushy mass. In any case, seeing that the yolks were cooked to a solid state decreased the excitement of the meal. The salmon not only did look moist, but indeed was and had a buttery smoked flavor. The spinach could have had a larger presence in the dish so each bite could be an even combination of egg, hollandaise sauce, bread and spinach. However, the portion of salmon was generous to go around. A few of the potatoes got hit by the hollandaise sauce, but were tough on the outside, which made each bite unsatisfyingly chewy.

Do classic eggs benedict have runny or solid egg yolks? My experience has seen more of the first than the latter. This should be confirmed...

I am not sure if I will go back to Osteria for their eggs benedict - though the hollandaise was nice - but I should try the oyster Tuesday special.

Osteria. 226 Jinxian Lu, near Shaanxi Nan Lu 进贤路226号, 近陕西南路. Shanghai, People's Republic of China

Noodle Bull on Fumin Lu

2010-07-13T06:00:00.000-07:00

Practically every expat I encountered in Shanghai raves about Noodle Bull. It is also cheap at 26rmb for a bowl of noodles and around 5rmb for an assortment of sides like tofu. “Noodle Bull is so good!” “Oh! You have to try Noodle Bull!” Okay, okay. I’m going.

I met a friend there after work and sat down at the communal tables where your menu is rolled up in a vase. The interior is minimalistic with wood furnishing and a large mirror at the back giving the illusion the restaurant is bigger than it is. The holistic, natural look goes with the theme of taking a health-minded approach and omitting MSG. Apparently, there is free wifi considering the number of diners with their laptops out.

I ordered the spicy beef noodle soup with 1.5mm hand-pulled noodles (you can also choose hand-sliced noodles or 5mm hand-pulled noodles) and got some tofu to share. The tofu was quite nice in texture and absorbed the flavor of the sauce it was marinated in.

Out came the noodles. It looked good. There were nice hunks of beef in there. It looked like it should be really good.

It wasn’t. The flavor of the broth was flat, tasting more watered down than anything. Maybe this impression was due to all the MSG-laden food you get in Shanghai. But it did not help that the flavor of the broth was lacking in any body or richness you would expect out of a Taiwanese soup. Where was the flavor? This seeped into the characteristics of the noodles and vegetables, which were also flavorless. I ordered the spicy soup and it did not taste spicy in the least. The only item in my bowl that carried any weight was the few, but tasty pieces of meat.

Was it a bad soup day? Did the stock not marinate enough? Is my Chinese palate becoming more MSG-dependent? Either way, the meal was completely disappointing aside from the tofu and the few pieces of beef. Someone convince me again why Noodle Bull is so good.

Noodle Bull. 1f3b, No.291 Fumin Road, Xuhui District, Shanghai, People’s Republic of China. 上海市徐匯區富民路291號悟錦世紀大樓1F3B

Nero di Seppia da Shanghai

2010-07-07T08:35:00.000-07:00

I went to Luna Bianca before at the recommendation of a long-time expat hanging around Taikang Lu for a good pizza. Whilst there, this girl was eating a black squid ink pasta and it was dying her mouth black. When she opened her mouth, her teeth were washed over with black and her lips painted. It was quite a sight. Her family members made a lot of fun of her. She looked embarrassed at first, but completely dominated the whole meal. I could smell that sweet black ink from where I was sitting.

Went back again a few weeks later on a solo mission. Once seated, the server greeted me with a small selection of bread, which looks like excess pizza dough reformed and thrown in the oven. The tagliatelle came out deep black from the squid ink sauce. It was so black, the plate was dyed. There were chunks of squid, whole mussels, and some shrimp nestled in the pasta. It existence was almost denied to the eye from the deep, jet-black mess. After one bite, I wiped my mouth and the napkin revealed a sauce so dark it was like a black fountain pen exploded in my mouth. Oh my. That is a mess. I did not think this could be possible with nero di seppia. The bits of seafood were plentiful though seemingly hidden and not overcooked. The black ink sauce was smooth, slightly sweet, and savory with a deep flavor from the seafood.

Tagliatelle al nero di seppia dyes everything black inside and out. Literally. It was an unusual gastronomic experience. However, the meal was thoroughly enjoyable and challenged a palate used to tomato, cream, and pesto based sauces.

Luna Bianca. 38, Lane 155 Jian Guo Zhong Lu 建国中路155弄38号. Shanghai, People’s Republic of China