A hard overnight coach from Saigon to Nha Trang combined with checking into an overpriced hotel room during the high season of Tet called for a breakfast splurge. After walking around the coastal streets looking for at least a street vendor for breakfast (none of which were in sight because it was the night before Tet began), I stumbled upon Le Petit Bistro. Food is cheap in Vietnam, even non-Vietnamese food. Why not?
Out of the bare menu, the eggs benedict looked like the most bang for the dong considering an omelette and baguette were not worth that much or a sad looking pastry with preserves. To accompany the meal, fresh mango juice was ordered.
Eggs benedict were fair. Baguette cut in half with a thick slice of ham and a helping of hollandaise sauce on top. Orange juice and more hollandaise sauce were served on the side in shot glasses. The hollandaise sauce was slightly citrusy. The best part was the mango juice, which was literally mangoes put through a juicer with bits of mango fibers in the juice. If only it was also made cold before serving.
Circumstances given, the breakfast was decent, especially for Western fare. Bear the heat and keep walking to taste Vietnam.
Le Petit Bistro. #26D D Tran Quang Khai, Nha Trang, Vietnam
Thursday, February 18, 2010
Pho In Vietnam
Let us breathe out a sigh of relief as we are once again reminded what real pho tastes like. It is heavenly. Light, but flavorful. Fresh. Comforting. And cheap. Real cheap. That 48RMB pho is a fortune compared to the 20,000VND paid to a street vendor in Saigon.
Oh and that pot of stock was full of lovely bones. And the bits of meat and marrow that that came off the bones are floating delicately in the broth. Whilst sitting on one of those little plastic squat chairs, the woman was scooping out the bones from her giant stock pot. There were a lot of bones. Ladle after ladle came out all these bones. Which sort of bones these are is a mystery.
The rice sticks are already softened and set aside in a bowl, which portions are pulled from and put in a sieve and dipped into the broth. The same treatment is given to the meat. Chopped spring onions and parsley are sprinkled on top. With the bowl of pho, you are given a giant basket of basil, lemon grass, bean sprouts, a saucer of chilis, and a saucer of quartered limes (this is not as available in Hanoi as in Saigon). In Hanoi, sometimes sticks of fried dough are offered to accompany the pho. The differences between pho in the north and the south are yet to be further distinguished.
Definitely beats anything in Shanghai. Ruining the memory of amazing pho by continuing to attempt to find a version of it in Shanghai should be avoided. Just like all the bad Mexican food.
Oh and that pot of stock was full of lovely bones. And the bits of meat and marrow that that came off the bones are floating delicately in the broth. Whilst sitting on one of those little plastic squat chairs, the woman was scooping out the bones from her giant stock pot. There were a lot of bones. Ladle after ladle came out all these bones. Which sort of bones these are is a mystery.
The rice sticks are already softened and set aside in a bowl, which portions are pulled from and put in a sieve and dipped into the broth. The same treatment is given to the meat. Chopped spring onions and parsley are sprinkled on top. With the bowl of pho, you are given a giant basket of basil, lemon grass, bean sprouts, a saucer of chilis, and a saucer of quartered limes (this is not as available in Hanoi as in Saigon). In Hanoi, sometimes sticks of fried dough are offered to accompany the pho. The differences between pho in the north and the south are yet to be further distinguished.
Definitely beats anything in Shanghai. Ruining the memory of amazing pho by continuing to attempt to find a version of it in Shanghai should be avoided. Just like all the bad Mexican food.
Sunday, February 7, 2010
Legend Taste
As a fan of spicy Yunnan dishes and looking for something slightly cheaper than Lost Heaven, Legend Taste seemed to fit the bill. The numerous reviews on the Shanghai websites built the hype. The actual restaurant is small and cozy, but there is a random large flat-screen television hovering in the back. It looks suitable for either impromptu KTV or sports viewing.
I am not sure if it what was ordered, but the dishes were not so exciting. It was a mixed bag of tricks. The morning glory was removed from the menu. Sadness! The fried egg with vegetables was very salty. The Haini fish was just fried lumps, but the actual flesh was light and not too dry. Aubergines were a good choice, but still very oily. The beef was good and spicy. The beer that accompanied the meal was probably equally exciting and cheap at 15-20RMB.
I feel let down. Another visit to this place is necessary to explore more dishes and the delight from the reviews that tempted the visit in the first place.
Legend Taste. 1025 Kanding Lu. Shanghai, China
I am not sure if it what was ordered, but the dishes were not so exciting. It was a mixed bag of tricks. The morning glory was removed from the menu. Sadness! The fried egg with vegetables was very salty. The Haini fish was just fried lumps, but the actual flesh was light and not too dry. Aubergines were a good choice, but still very oily. The beef was good and spicy. The beer that accompanied the meal was probably equally exciting and cheap at 15-20RMB.
I feel let down. Another visit to this place is necessary to explore more dishes and the delight from the reviews that tempted the visit in the first place.
Legend Taste. 1025 Kanding Lu. Shanghai, China
Pier 39
It is interesting in Shanghai that a city-themed restaurant should be based upon San Francisco, California. Pier 39 aims to bring what is San Francisco, including the clam chowder in a bread bowl. Other items on the menu are sandwiches, salads, and pastas. The salads and most of the sandwiches included avocado, a staple part of Californian fare. They also serve smoothies which are large and match its price. Come to think of it, the portions at this restaurant are large and you get more for what you pay for.
This clam chowder is barely passable. The only redeeming quality of the soup is that there are chunks of clam and it is still piping hot to the last drop. The soup is thickened with pureed potato and tastes like it instead of a creamy base thickened with roux. The other disappointment is the bread bowl, which is a French round instead of sourdough. Do they even sell sourdough in Shanghai? Perhaps someone should bring some bread yeasts over and the old wooden barrel in which to cure the dough to China so Pier 39 could at least get the crusty sourdough part so characteristic of "clam chowder in a bread bowl." The sandwiches on ciabatta bread look more exciting than how this chowder tasted.
The decor is charming and seats are comfortable, making it better for a cup o' Joe instead of San Franciscan comfort food.
Pier 39. 172 Jinxian Lu (near Maoming Lu). 进贤路172号 (茂名路) Shanghai, China
This clam chowder is barely passable. The only redeeming quality of the soup is that there are chunks of clam and it is still piping hot to the last drop. The soup is thickened with pureed potato and tastes like it instead of a creamy base thickened with roux. The other disappointment is the bread bowl, which is a French round instead of sourdough. Do they even sell sourdough in Shanghai? Perhaps someone should bring some bread yeasts over and the old wooden barrel in which to cure the dough to China so Pier 39 could at least get the crusty sourdough part so characteristic of "clam chowder in a bread bowl." The sandwiches on ciabatta bread look more exciting than how this chowder tasted.
The decor is charming and seats are comfortable, making it better for a cup o' Joe instead of San Franciscan comfort food.
Pier 39. 172 Jinxian Lu (near Maoming Lu). 进贤路172号 (茂名路) Shanghai, China
Kabb Revisited
Newly appointed head chef, Greg Gilvison, originally from the San Francisco Bay area in the United States, has taken on the challenge of the badly needed reform and refinement of Kabb's menu. The rather poor reviews of the quality and inconsistency of the food at Kabb means that Gilvison has a tough road ahead. He is up for the challenge. Already, he is revamping the seasonal menus before fleshing out the standard menu.
Saturday brunch time is still busy until about 15:00 packed with patrons for the weekend brunch or for the drinks. I asked Gilvison to make me whatever he wanted and let him have free range on my palate. For my brunch, he served eggs benedict on smoked salmon over dark bread, which was accompanied by a citrus salad and grilled tomatoes. The eggs were perfectly poached and the hollandaise sauce was not extremely acidic. The grilled tomatoes had nice grill marks and caramelization. This was quite promising compared to the disaster that was my first visit to Kabb.
Another highlight of the Kabb menu is the DIY Bloody Mary. The pint glass receives a generous pour of Skyy vodka and a row of horseradish, Worcestershire sauce, pepper, and Tabasco sauce. Each bloody mary can be tailor-made by you to fit your personal taste. Now you cannot blame the bartender if the bloody mary is not up to your standards.
I am feeling quite optimistic for the new head chef. The character that Gilvison carries is open and bright, looking to keep negativity out of the kitchen. Discipline and firmness - yes. Negativity - no. The fare at Kabb is already looking up.
Kabb. Xintiandi North Block, Lane 181 Taicang Lu (near Madang Lu). 太仓路181号，新天地北里, 近马当路 Shanghai, China
Saturday brunch time is still busy until about 15:00 packed with patrons for the weekend brunch or for the drinks. I asked Gilvison to make me whatever he wanted and let him have free range on my palate. For my brunch, he served eggs benedict on smoked salmon over dark bread, which was accompanied by a citrus salad and grilled tomatoes. The eggs were perfectly poached and the hollandaise sauce was not extremely acidic. The grilled tomatoes had nice grill marks and caramelization. This was quite promising compared to the disaster that was my first visit to Kabb.
Another highlight of the Kabb menu is the DIY Bloody Mary. The pint glass receives a generous pour of Skyy vodka and a row of horseradish, Worcestershire sauce, pepper, and Tabasco sauce. Each bloody mary can be tailor-made by you to fit your personal taste. Now you cannot blame the bartender if the bloody mary is not up to your standards.
I am feeling quite optimistic for the new head chef. The character that Gilvison carries is open and bright, looking to keep negativity out of the kitchen. Discipline and firmness - yes. Negativity - no. The fare at Kabb is already looking up.
Kabb. Xintiandi North Block, Lane 181 Taicang Lu (near Madang Lu). 太仓路181号，新天地北里, 近马当路 Shanghai, China
Wednesday, February 3, 2010
Aniseed
The hunt for pho in Shanghai continues. Considering all the horrendous pho I have been trying here, it is a wonder I could even remember what good pho tastes like, much less looks like. The disasters of Pho Sizzling, Pho 26, Pho Real, and Pho 1 on Taikang Lu (from what I hear) are reason to lose faith enough of pho in Shanghai.
Decided to head over to the Aniseed location in Xintiandi. The reviews on CityWeekend were quite promising. Then again, a lot of the reviews of pho in Shanghai come from people who admittedly say they have never tried the real thing.
The shrimp and mango spring rolls were 28RMB for a small roll cut into four pieces and accompanied by friend shavings of onions and a large lettuce leaf. The mango is not fresh and tastes like jarred mango instead of fresh cut. The condiment vinegar was light, almost too light that you could not even taste it.
Now for the main event - the pho. Out of the variety of pho including different combinations of beef, one chicken, and one mushroom options, I opted for the house pho at 48RMB. This is a little more expensive than the pho at Pho 26. Just like Pho 26, the bowl of rice sticks came with practically no condiments. Are you kidding??? Where is my bunch of basil and other fresh green goodies to throw in my soup? The plate that contained these items just had three leaves, a chopped up chili, and limp sprouts. The broth was a little dark and showed little trace of grease and fat pools on its surface. The flavor, however, did not match the depth of its colored. The pho was light. The rice noodles slightly overcooked, but still lovely. The soup only had 2 meatballs, some tendons, and a few pieces of beef.
All you ever really get in Shanghai is a fix for pho. I give up. I'll just go to Vietnam and remember what the real thing tastes like.
Aniseed. Unit 3, Bldg 1, Lane 181 Taicang Lu, Xintiandi太仓路181弄1号楼3单 Shanghai, China
Decided to head over to the Aniseed location in Xintiandi. The reviews on CityWeekend were quite promising. Then again, a lot of the reviews of pho in Shanghai come from people who admittedly say they have never tried the real thing.
The shrimp and mango spring rolls were 28RMB for a small roll cut into four pieces and accompanied by friend shavings of onions and a large lettuce leaf. The mango is not fresh and tastes like jarred mango instead of fresh cut. The condiment vinegar was light, almost too light that you could not even taste it.
Now for the main event - the pho. Out of the variety of pho including different combinations of beef, one chicken, and one mushroom options, I opted for the house pho at 48RMB. This is a little more expensive than the pho at Pho 26. Just like Pho 26, the bowl of rice sticks came with practically no condiments. Are you kidding??? Where is my bunch of basil and other fresh green goodies to throw in my soup? The plate that contained these items just had three leaves, a chopped up chili, and limp sprouts. The broth was a little dark and showed little trace of grease and fat pools on its surface. The flavor, however, did not match the depth of its colored. The pho was light. The rice noodles slightly overcooked, but still lovely. The soup only had 2 meatballs, some tendons, and a few pieces of beef.
All you ever really get in Shanghai is a fix for pho. I give up. I'll just go to Vietnam and remember what the real thing tastes like.
Aniseed. Unit 3, Bldg 1, Lane 181 Taicang Lu, Xintiandi太仓路181弄1号楼3单 Shanghai, China
Tuesday, February 2, 2010
Baker & Spice
The new endeavor from the makers of Wagas, Baker & Spice has opened on Anfu Lu to serve as your yuppie neighborhood bakery (as well as bread supplier for the Wagas chain). Emphasis is on the large baking space in view from the actual retail area in the front. Large windows to this clean space ensure that the customer knows that the bread is baked here. The retail space has an emphasis on wood and natural accents to showcase the breads, pastries, muffins, and granola.
The display case was lined (though in a limited number) with cakes, pastries, and bread loaves in a way that was very attractive to the patron. The bread is good. That is the main selling point of this bakery. It is not a rock, it does not fall apart unnecessarily, it is not bland nor overpowered. Westerners missing a quality loaf of bread should come here and fork over way more than they would expect to pay in their home country for the staple that is now a luxury item in Shanghai.
On my one-stop visit, I was starving having not eaten breakfast nor lunch and it was almost 17:00. The zucchini, carrot, and poppy seed muffin with cream cheese frosting was a tempting buy at 15RMB. There were a selection of pre-made panini they will gladly heat and press for you ranging from 40-45RMB. The salami, spinach, pesto, cheese, and tomato one seemed like the most appealing option, though small for the price paid. 60RMB is a big hit to the local wallet. The panini was average, though the bread it was made with was very nice and not too chewy or soft. The muffin was a good fix as well, though a little crumbly and slightly dry, it was still light and flavorful.
Generally out of the way from major commercial areas in Shanghai, Baker & Spice is a decent local option. Don't expect to sit and hang out at this bakery though as there is only one long table and a few chairs. If you are in the area, check out Baker & Spice, but you can also taste the bread from your local Wagas chain.
Baker & Spice. No. 195 Anfu Road, Shanghai, China. 安福路195号1楼 Open daily 7:00-20:30
Dean Brettschneider at GlobalBaker.com
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