Saturday, July 30, 2011

Lòushì Tāngbāoguǎn 陋室汤包馆

Lòushì Tāngbāoguǎn in ShanghaiEveryone has their local xiǎolóngbāo 小笼包 or tāngbāo 汤包 spot, granted some are better than others and you may travel farther for a better soup dumpling (like Jia Jia Tang Bao, for example). Lòushì Tāngbāoguǎn 陋室汤包馆 (lòushì 陋室 meaning "common room" and tāngbāoguǎn 汤包馆 for "soup dumpling shop/shack") serves the vicinity around Nanchang Lu between Shaanxi Nan Lu and Xiangyang Lu.

Xiǎolóngbāo 小笼包 ("soup dumpling") versus tāngbāo 汤包 ("soup bun") - what is the difference? The Chowhound boards noted that tāngbāo has a greater emphasis on the soup than the meat, but otherwise, they are generally the same thing. After speaking with a few Shanghainese, the consensus is the larger soup dumplings you can eat with a straw should be referred to as "tāngbāo," but otherwise they are all the same. Xiǎolóngbāo 小笼包 is the same as tāngbāo 汤包 depending on what you feel like calling it. These juicy little parcels are not exclusive to Shanghai though because other areas, like Suzhou, have their own version of the soup dumpling. Hence, the characters at the bottom of the Lòushì Tāngbāoguǎn 陋室汤包馆 sign saying "Nánjīng tè sè xiǎochī 南京特色小吃" or "Nanjing special quality/kind snack."

Lòushì Tāngbāoguǎn menu

The menu only has three versions of soup dumpling: Lòushì tāngbāo 陋室汤包 (their speciality or simply just pork soup dumplings); xièfěn 蟹粉 or crab meal (and pork); and xiārén 虾仁 or shrimp meat. Being an afternoon snack, the house specialty or pork and the crab and pork soup dumplings were ordered. There were still some pork soup dumplings in the steamers at the entrance, which came out first. The crab and pork ones took about 10 minutes to steam to perfection. The pork tāngbāo was quite soupy and the wrapper was a bit thick on top where it was pinched together. It tasted a tad oily and not freshly made, but was still satisfying. The crab and pork tāngbāo was really savory with bits of crab meat and plenty of soup inside the dumpling. The crab flavor was not overwhelming and the meat inside the dumpling held together. The wrapper had a similar issue at being a bit too thick at the top, but by rolling it over a little and biting a little hole at the side gives you that first hot soup.

Lòushì tāngbāo 陋室汤包 inside of Lòushì tāngbāo 陋室汤包
Crab and Pork Lòushì Tāngbāoguǎn Crab and Pork Lòushì Tāngbāoguǎn inside
Lòushì Tāngbāoguǎn 陋室汤包馆
Left to right from top: Lòushì tāngbāo 陋室汤包, the inside of the pork soup dumpling, xièfěn tāngbāo 蟹粉汤包, inside of the crab and pork soup dumpling, steamers outside

Lòushì Tāngbāoguǎn is not a particularly fancy place, but the crab and pork soup dumplings are great and the dumplings are definitely not lacking on the soup.

Lòushì Tāngbāoguǎn 陋室汤包馆. 601 Nanchang Lu (by Xiangyang Lu), Shanghai, People's Republic of China

Seasonal Vegetable Torta

Summer Vegetable TortaTechnology definitely helps to indulge gastronomic senses through the ability to share beautiful photos of dishes and tips and tricks to spruce up cooking. Browsing the internet, I came across these gorgeous photos of a sort of crustless quiche baked in a smaller springform with a height that displays the marbelization of the colorful summer vegetables used. The ingredient list was not so demanding (as in cost, aside from the cheese, and easily accessible) and could be substituted for other seasonal vegetables.

When putting together the actual torta, I used milk instead of heavy cream. I also opted to roast red peppers myself to intensify the sweetness of the red pepper and add a hint of smokiness. After the vegetables finished sauteing, I put them in a strainer to drain off extra liquid instead of using a slotted spoon to remove as much excess water as possible. While baking, the top of the torta puffed and browned more than in the photo of the original recipe, but I am not sure how much the change in milk fat content in the egg mixture affected the texture or because it was being baked in a glorified toaster oven. In any case, the resulting vegetable torta was just as pretty as well as light, savory, and delicious hot or cold. It was great as a side or a snack. A big slice could do as a main course. I am tempted to try this recipe again with asparagus tips and more leafy greens.

Summer Vegetable Torta side shot
Vegetable marbelization

Summer Vegetable Torta (adapted)

3 tbsp olive oil
1/2 medium onion, chopped
8 oz mushrooms, sliced
3 medium zucchini, sliced 1/4 inch thick
2 red peppers, sliced into 1/4 inch strips OR 1 12 oz jar marinated red peppers,
drained and cut into 1/4 inch wide strips
8 oz cream cheese, softened
6 large eggs
1/4 cup half and half or heavy cream
2 garlic cloves, minced
3 tbsp fresh basil, chopped
1/2 tsp salt
1/2 tsp pepper
2 cups shredded Gruyère

Preheat oven to 350F and brush bottom and sides of a 9-inch springform pan with oil. Line bottom with parchment and brush parchment with oil. Wrap outside of pan with aluminum foil.

Heat oil in a large skillet over medium heat. Add the onion, mushrooms, zucchini, and fresh peppers, if using. Saute until vegetables are just tender, about 10 minutes. Put sauteed vegetables in strainer to drain of excess liquid.

In a large bowl, beat cream cheese until smooth. Beat in eggs until combined (it's okay if it's a little lumpy). Beat in cream or half and half. Stir in garlic, basil, salt and pepper. Add sauteed vegetables to egg mixture, then add drained marinated peppers, if using. Add shredded cheese. Stir with a rubber spatula to combine.

Spread mixture in prepared pan and set pan on baking sheet. Bake for 1 1/2 - 1 3/4 hours or until top is puffy and golden brown and the center no longer jiggles when shaken. Remove from oven and let cool 10 minutes in pan, then run a sharp knife around edges of torta to loosen. Gently remove pan sides. Serve warm, room temperature, or cold.

Serves 8 (large slices). Each serving has 8.25g of carbs and 1.5g of fiber.

Sunday, July 3, 2011

Oven Roasting Red Peppers

Oven Roasted Red PeppersWhen perusing the Internet for recipes that are simple and easy, some of the ingredients that are cheap at your local market in the States are Europe cost about ten-fold in China, especially in Shanghai. I wanted more than to just cut thin strips of red peppers and throw it in the pan. There is a smokey flavor carried by red peppers from roasting and that should be going into my dish. Roasting also intensifies the flavors of the red peppers. Unfortunately, I am not willing to fork out all that renminbi to go to an expensive expat-oriented supermarket to buy (fire)roasted red peppers preserved in oil with some garlic or herbs. The Food Network showed one of its chefs or cooks doing it at home, bringing you to the mantra of "If [Yan] can cook, so can you!" Hear, hear.

My kitchen in China is ill-equipped. There are no tongs; only chopsticks. Trying to fire the exterior of red peppers over a gas-flame using wooden chopsticks seemed risky to me. There is also no built-in oven, but a glorified toaster oven of relatively large size. Produce is often tricky because a lot of it has been bred and engineered to look good, not taste good (e.g. tomatoes). I ended up at the Avocado Lady and bought a couple unblemished red peppers. Now to hope for the best.

The red peppers went on a piece of aluminum foil on a small pan and was placed in a pre-heated oven (mine ranged between 400-450°F). About every 15 minutes, after the skins formed dark splotches, the red peppers were turned using chopsticks. After every side of the red peppers were a bit black, I took them out of the oven, put them in a bowl, and covered the bowl to steam the red peppers. This allows the skins to separate from the flesh so it is easy to remove. The red peppers generally held its original shape coming out, but quickly deflated. When the red peppers are cool enough to handle, the skins slip right off with a bit of rubbing. And you never want to rinse the red peppers after they come out of the oven because you will just wash away the smokey quality. These peppers looked, smelled, and tasted just as good as the imported ones. They can be preserved in extra-virgin olive oil with some herbs and garlic, if desired. Save yourself the cash and do it yourself.

Oven Roasted Red Peppers Oven Roasted Red Peppers steaming
Red peppers straight from the oven, red peppers steaming in a bowl

Oven Roasted Red Peppers
Red Peppers

Pre-heat oven to 450°F / 230°C. Arrange red peppers on a cookie sheet lined with foil and roast in the oven, turning about every 15 minutes or when dark splotches form. Do this until the red peppers are roasted all the way through, about 30-40 minutes. When the peppers are done, remove them from the oven and place in a covered bowl to steam to make the skins easier to peel off. Once peppers are cooled, remove the skins and discard with your hands or a paring knife. Pull the top of the red pepper off and remove the seeds. Remember to never rinse or wash the peppers at this point.

Saturday, July 2, 2011

Xindalu China Kitchen Dim Sum Special

Xindalu Place SettingXindalu China Kitchen Restaurant at Hyatt on the Bund was having a dim sum promotion for 180RMB (plus 15% service charge) for a steady stream of these small dishes for lunch. Only tea or juice was included with the deal, which ended on June 16 after running daily during lunch hours for about two weeks. So, sorry in advance if you were expecting to go and take advantage of this promotion. The 180RMB price tag may be daunting for some, especially with cheaper all-you-can-eat dim sum deals being offered in Shanghai, but Xindalu has made a reputation for itself as a fine dining experience in an upscale hotel. Most know of Xindalu for the way its Peking duck that is cooked in a special wood oven or so the Hyatt website claims. The flavor of Xindalu's Peking duck is supposed to rival or best that of the popular chain, Quanjude. The dim sum promotion allows diners to sample another region of China for a fine dining lunch experience, though you could surely supplement the meal with other items off the menu. The menu for the dim sum lunch was not particularly extensive, most likely to maintain control of the quality of the dishes, some of which may have been created specially for this promotion. Upon arrival, diners are given a pen to check off which dishes or how many of them they want on a paper menu. If you want to order more, the server will bring out another of the same menu where you can re-order your favorites. Of course, we tried as much as a pair possibly could.

Xindalu Dining Room Xindalu condiment tray

The restaurant is located on the ground floor of Hyatt on the Bund and adjacent to the lobby with no significant views to admire, though you could easily see who is rolling up the main driveway of the hotel. (Check out Vue bar upstairs). The main dining area is dark with the seats by the window reserved for smoking. The kitchen is open although partitioned with glass that fogs up from steam giving diners access to the action while waiting for dishes to be served.

Xindalu pan-fried turnip cake Xinalu barbecue pork puff-pastry with sesame
Xindalu fried goose liver taro dumplings Xindalu fried goose liver taro dumplings inside
Xindalu steamed shrimp dumplings Xindalu steamed scallop vegetable dumplings
Xindalu fried mango rice paper roll Xindalu fried mushroom bead curd skin roll
From top, left to right: Pan-fried turnip cake, Barbecue pork puff-pastry with sesame, Fried goose liver taro dumplings, inside of goose liver dumplings, Steamed shrimp dumplings, Steamed scallop vegetable dumplings, Fried mango rice paper roll, Fried mushroom bean curd skin roll

The plates came out as quickly as the order was put in and there was barely enough room for our individual pots of tea and towers of steamers. The fried goose liver taro dumplings were particularly decadent, savory, and heavy despite the lightness of its fried interior. The fried mushroom bean curd skin roll was crispy, light, and not at all oily. The puff pastry around the barbecue pork was more densely packed than light imparting a solid crust than flaky exterior. The small filling was slightly sweet.

Xindalu steamed chiu chow dumplings Xindalu baked barbecue pork buns
Xindalu mini baked chicken meat pies Xindalu steamed beef balls with bean curd sheet
Xindalu Steamed traditional Cantonese sponge cake Fried custard glutinous dumpling
Xindalu steamed sesame buns Insides of steamed sesame buns
From top, left to right: Steamed chiu chow dumplings, Baked Barbecue Pork Buns, Mini baked chicken meat pies, Steamed beef balls with bean curd sheet, Steamed traditional Cantonese sponge cake, Fried custard glutinous dumplings, Steamed Sesame Buns, Black sesame interior of sesame buns

The baked dim sum items had a very dense crust encasing the moist, salty, and savory meat in the center. There were a few items on the steamed and fried section of the menu that were more sweet than savory: steamed traditional Cantonese sponge cake, fried custard glutinous dumplings, and the steamed buns filled with black sesame. The latter of the two were more memorable for a tongue conditioned by Western sweets.

Xindalu Kitchen dim sum desserts
Clockwise from bottom left: Sweetened sago cream with mango and pomelo, Red bean soup, Almond tea with egg white, Chilled mango pudding (with condensed milk), Baked sago pudding with chestnut paste

Xindalu does particularly well with its dessert (and sweet items as mentioned above) without being sugary. The sweetened sago with mango and bits of pomelo was light and fresh. The red bean soup was cool and subtly sweet. The almond tea with egg white could almost be sipped straight from the bowl and was as light as it looked. The chilled mango pudding apparently came with condensed milk, but it was better used on the baked sago pudding with chestnut paste that was served warm. The meal ended nicely with this touch of sweetness.

Xindalu server cutting Peking duck at tableside

The dim sum lunch was extremely filling with a very attentive staff, but classic dim sum dishes like the pork ribs were missing from the selection. Given the limited selection, each dish was on average good for what it was, but still the dim sum at Ye Shanghai is preferred. It was nice to try the dim sum at Xindalu just for the experience. However, I am more inclined to return to sample that wonderful smelling Peking duck. The way that the server would clean the carcass precisely with his skilled hand releasing the aroma of the duck meat was enough to get your appetite going again.

One fun fact: The concierge at Hyatt on the Bund advised me that although they do not valet bicycles nor have a proper bike parking area, they will gladly escort you and your bike to the place where staff park their bicycles, electric bikes, electric scooters, and motos. Just make sure that your bike is not one that is particularly valuable as you are parking at your own risk.

Xindalu. Hyatt on the Bund, 199 Huangpu Road, Shanghai 200080, China. 上海外滩茂悦大酒店 中国上海黄浦路199号 邮政编码:200080. Hours: Lunch 11:30 – 14:30, Dinner 17:30 – 22:30. Reservations: + 86 21 6393 1234 * 6318.

glo London Shanghai Gastro Grill

After spending some time in London and appreciating its gastropub culture, I was curious to see what glo London would bring to China with its ambitious plans of a bakery cafe, gastro grill, lounge bar, rooftop barbecue, and pizza delivery all under one roof. I managed to get in on an invite to sample the food from the gastro grill before the soft opening (Shanghai loves soft openings). The tables were barely arranged and the bakery cafe on the first floor was still being put together. glo London was barely open and being so new, there should be some understanding that the wait staff may still need a little extra training and the kitchen is still working out a few kinks.

glo London Satay Chicken
glo London chargrilled lemon honey tiger prawns glo London duck samosas
glo London crab croquettes glo London calamari

The starters had the most international flair out of all the sections on the menu. However, its size and portion were not very impressive, especially compared to the price. The Satay Chicken (60RMB) made from char-grilled chicken breast marinated in spicy peanut, chilli, and coconut sauce was tender and moist with a hint of sweet flavor. The lovely marinated taste was reflected in its equally appealing yellow color. The Chargrilled Lemon Honey Tiger Prawns (85RMB) marinated in special honey marinade was the most disappointing out of all the starters. The prawns were not even tiger prawns! Maybe the kitchen ran out of tiger prawns and neglected to tell its patrons that the tiger prawn species would be substituted for another that evening? Who knows. The grand opening should at least see real tiger prawns. The marinade on the prawns was good, but the prawns were a tad dry as if left on the grill for a few seconds too long. The Duck Confit Samosas (65RMB), a trio of spiced duck samosas served with apple ginger chutney, were also very flavorful and moist. The accompanying apple ginger chutney added a soft and sweet bite to the spiced duck. The wrapper was a bit limp and could have been a touch crispier though. The Chilli and Corriander Calamari (65RMB) lightly-dusted and pan-fried with fresh chilli, garlic, corriander, and soy sauce served with lime and sweet chilli sauce was of average quality. The calamari came out hot and only featured rings cut from the mantle. The dish would have been more interesting if the tentacles were also used. A good squeeze of lemon made the calamari that much better. The Crab Croquettes (70RMB) was made from hand-picked crab meat mixed with freshly chopped herbs, onions, garlic, chilli, and creamy potato accompanied with lime and sweet chilli sauce. It easily could have been the best starter from the meal as the bulk of the croquette was crab meat instead of filler. The onions, galric, chilli, and potato in the croquette were not overpowering the main feature of the dish - the crab meat.

glo London,Baby Back Ribs
glo London grilled sea bass glo London beef
glo London Chicken Tikka Curry glo London Pizza Parma

The mains were significantly better in terms of price compared to size and quality. The selection leaned more toward an American menu with a few popular English choices such as the curries. The half slab of Hickory BBQ Baby Back Ribs (145RMB) is slow-cooked in a hickory oak burning smoke pit and finished on the chargrill before getting smothered with homemade bbq sauce. The ribs were actually full-sized pork ribs and was a massive portion. The meat was incredibly tender and slipped easily off the bone. There was great caramelization on the meat underneath that sweet barbecue sauce. Like most of the mains, it was served with hand-cut steak chips, battered onion rings, roasted cherry tomatoes, chargrilled mushrooms, and crisp mixed leaves. With the size of the mains, the steak chips and onion rings were almost unnecessary filler. The texture and taste of the mushrooms was more marinated than grilled. Half of these sides (the mushrooms and juicy cherry tomatoes) almost did give me the impression of an English breakfast. One diner was disappointed with the size of the Chargrilled Honey and Coriander whole Sea Bass (180RMB) marinated in coriander, cumin, ginger, Manuka honey, and fresh chillies. The fish was small, but tasty, especially with the marinade creating a barely there crust on the skin of the fish. The beef fillet (238RMB) raised some eyebrows because it did not taste like a solid beef cut, but rather marinated in soy sauce (manuka honey marinade), which masked the flavor of the beef. Also disappointing was the London-Style Chicken Tikka Curry (110RMB) with tender chicken pieces in tikka sauce flavored with fresh garlic, cardamom, coriander and fresh chilli. The curry was put in a bread bowl and served as a platter with poppadoms, kal cucumber, toasted coconut, and apple ginger chutney. There were too many grain products to go with the curry so you were getting more full from the papadoms and bread than the actual curry. The Parma Ham Pizza (115RMB) had tomato, torn buffalo mozzarella, olives, and marinated mushrooms slow-roasted in garlic and herb oil finished with slices of Parma ham, fresh rocket leaves, and a drizzle of extra-virgin olive oil. The crust of the pizza is thin, crispy and oval-shaped barely fitting the board it came on (with accompanying pizza cutter for a more hands-on experience). The marinated mushrooms were the same as the ones served as sides on the grilled mains and fell off the thin slices too easily. The Parma ham and rocket was abundant in every bite. When glo London rolls out its pizza delivery service, this would be something to look forward to. After all these mains, our party of five was absolutely stuffed.

glo London Jam Roly-Poly glo London Hot Chocolate Brownie glo London Butter and Bread Pudding

And then came out the desserts. With all the food from the first two courses, it was a surprise there was any room for dessert at all. The Jam Roly-Poly (50RMB) is labeled as "an old-time favorite" traditionally hand-rolled sponge cake smothered in raspberry jam and covered in custard. The custard really came in a gravy boat instead of covering the layered sponge cake. It was light, the sponge cake a tad dry, and the jam flavor barely there. The Hot Chocolate Brownie (60RMB) referred to as the "ultimate pudding for chocolate lovers with a fudgy texture" and chocolate chip topping served with honeycomb ice cream and fresh whipped cream was more a dry cake than brownie. The brownie fell apart for the lack of any fudgy texture to hold it together. The chocolate flavor was actually more on the bittersweet side than too sweet, but the consistency of the brownie destroyed the whole dessert. More familiar to an English dessert palate is the Bread and Butter Pudding (50RMB) mae from baked bread pudding with raisins (none of which were present), nutmeg, and vanilla pod served warm covered with strawberry jam and custard. The bread pudding was dense and too dry as if the moist quality of a good bread pudding would soak into the bread by the custard alone. It was not. The bread pudding was baked to a golden brown and the light custard could barely hold on to its gleaming surface.

Everyone was left with stomachs bursting from all the food that was shared and consumed. Overall, the food came in large portions (aside from the starters) and was incredibly filling. The mains from the grill and especially the pizzas are better choices for eats. The drinks were plentiful as well and ranged around 60RMB, which is average for its location in the former French Concession. While being a London-based chain, the majority of the menu was more reminiscent of an American casual restaurant and respected its serving size as well. The glo London Gastro Grill brought over more the chic atmosphere infiltrating the Square Mile's modern bar scene than a gastropub ideal with more English favorites. A return visit is likely in the future to sample the brunch and Sunday roast. The simple and clean interiors of glo London with its wide dining selection would definitely attract the roving expat in Shanghai.

glo London. 1 Wulumuqi Lu (by Dongping lu) / 乌鲁木齐路1号 (近东平路), Shanghai 200031, China. Tel: +86 21 6466 6565. glolondon.com