Gasps of amazement and horror rippled through Shanghai amongst those familiar with the California burger joint, In N Out. CaliBurger is opening a 山寨 shānzhài (refers to Chinese imitation and pirated brands and goods) store in front of the cheap compound popular amongst expats, SanHe HuaYuan 三和花园. It was set to open on Friday, December 9, 2011, as reported on various Shanghai lifestyle websites. CaliBurger apparently had a media night on the eve of its opening as well as to introduce the three finalists of the CaliBurger Girl Contest. Passerbys that the couple weeks up to this date reported that the burners were on and vigorous testing was being done as the kitchen ventilators emptied out street-side.
I am there at 12:30 on Friday, December 9, 2011. I wanted to see what they were about and how CaliBurger was at its attempt to ape the beloved In N Out. The CaliBurger sign does not hang outside, aside from the wires that will be used to power it. There are two people standing at the door to greet me as I walk in. Roy Newman, self-proclaimed wine distributor first and investor second, and Jon, the Californian beach-blonde guy doing business development, basically stared at me when I entered. The place was void of customers not to mention a menu.
"Hi, how can we help you?" Inquisitive stares. Awkward silence.I take a seat in the booth behind me and wait for my friends. Roy Newman takes the time to sit and talk. He is excited that an actual Californian in Shanghai would visit CaliBurger. We know that CaliBurger had bought the rights to use signature trademarks of In N Out in China, Russia, Hong Kong, and Australia, among other places as In N Out had failed to secure this previously. There were some legal issues with In N Out that even went so far as to provoke an In N Out popup for the purposes of "soft market research." I am informed that CaliBurger has come to an amicable agreement with In N Out only the day before that basically "gives [CaliBurger] well-wishes on the international venture." Since this agreement, the menu items known as "Double Double," "Animal Style," and "Protein Style" are now referred to as "CaliDouble," "Wild Style," and "Garden Style," respectively. CaliBurger did not want to copy In N Out, but merely pay homage and spread its greatness abroad.
"Online it says you are supposed to be open today."
"We are not open." More staring.
"Then why does it say online that you are supposed to be open today? I have friends already on their way."
"A lot of friends? Um...what can we do?" They look at each other.
"Are you from California?"
"Would you like a sample?"
"Yes." Free food!
The menu was limited that day as only burgers were available and they have not yet found a suitable supplier for potatoes. We ordered from our table a cheeseburger with whole grilled onions and no pickles and a couple CaliDoubles Wile Style. We did not have to go to the counter to pick up our order since CaliBurger decided that diners will have the option to order from their table.
Now on to the actual burgers. They arrived in a box and wrapped in a branded hamburger sleeve. They did not go so far as to copy the hidden Bible verses on select In N Out packaging. The cheeseburger arrived with whole grilled onions and pickles "Wild Style," which was a fail since the girl who took the order was clearly fluent in English. Not wanting to make a fuss, the pickles were picked out. The CaliDouble looked really good and it smelled great. The burger was pretty solid for that price point (28RMB for a burger, 33RMB for a cheeseburger, 48RMB for a CaliDouble). It was of appropriate size and had great texture: crunch from the lettuce, softness of the bun, girth of savory meat, sweet grilled onion, juicy tomato, gooey cheese and soft zing from the sauce. Breaking the burger down to its individual components was a slightly different story. The buns are made locally and were toasted on the inside so the bun never got soggy, but I swear the In N Out buns were lighter and spongier. Few produce can compare to what you can get in California. The lettuce may not be as green, but it was crisp the whole way through and not browning. You cannot expect to get a decent tomato in Shanghai, especially asking a winter tomato in Shanghai to meet Californian standards. The American cheese melted the way through and did not have that over-processed gag-inducing flavor that is commonly found in Chinese-made American sandwich singles. The burger patty was dry. There was not indication if the patty was pressed whilst cooking (Roy was not aware of the cooking methods used). Luckily, the cheese and sauce were able to cover that fact up. CaliBurger was thinking of importing beef from the States, which is illegal, but sourced Australian beef instead. They claimed that Chinese beef is not up to their standards. However, this does not take into consideration the CaliBurger motto of "Always Fresh." Putting together different cuts to create a great burger is a bit of an art, so perhaps they should consider further testing of different combinations of Chinese beef cuts.
Newman claimed to be a wine guy first and an investor second. He brings out and offers us a bottle of CaliBurger-branded Californian red wine that they will be offering. The wine was chosen to compliment the burgers and is not very heavy. Then we are offered a cup of their spiked shakes (28RMB), which is the standard milkshake spiked with bourbon. The vanilla Spiked Shake was pretty tasty and the bourbon flavor was clear. The milkshake could have been thicker. There is still discussion on what the final bourbon source will be, but Jim Beam was mentioned. After the wine and the Spiked Shake as well as the convenience store beer we brought since drinks were not available, this lunch chat was getting tipsy. You can call it either a way to win us over or to blur newly made memories. Still thinking about that vanilla Spiked Shake...
Let's say the visit was during its "soft-opening" (they had planned the real opening for 9th December after the media tasting the night before) so CaliBurger still has time to work out the kinks for its January 2012 opening. Though, this is not a particularly opportune time with the Christmas holiday season just ending and Chinese New Year being the last week in January. Roy Newman and his team were eager to listen to criticisms and suggestions for improvement, so here is to CaliBurger being able to produce a solid product and maintain oversight to ensure standards after turning it over to a local team. Or so you would hope.
CaliBurger. 98 Yanping Lu (by Xinzha Lu), Shanghai, China. 中国上海市静安区延平路98号 (近新闸路). CaliBurger.Asia
