Tuesday, October 19, 2010

Eats in Jakarta, Java, Indonesia

Landing in Jakarta, the idea of getting real Indonesian food was absolutely thrilling. Every time anyone heard of my venture to Indonesia, the reaction commonly, "Oh my Gawd! You're going there? The food is so good. You have to try..." Oh yes, growling and ready, my stomach was ready (and hopefully prepared against food poisoning) to digest amazing food.

Upon arrival, my initial reaction was that Indonesian food was a lot like Filipino food with a spicier kick. There was an evident preference for frying things. Also, rice was a main part of the meal rather than a supplement to further fill you up.

Meals in Jakarta were spent primarily in the Kemang district, where my host is located. The neighborhood is full of restaurants, shops, bars and night clubs, though it appeared that many of them had gone out of business due to the number of boarded up store fronts. Kemang may not be the most charming district, but it is convenient. It once was an expat hot spot due to the affordability of nearby villas. My host informs me that most of the expats have left, but does not know where they moved to.

Padang food in Jakarta, IndonesiaFirst meal was at a late-night Sundanese restaurant called Nasi Uduk Kebon Kacang, a short drive from the center of Kemang district. Sundanese food includes cities of Bogor, Bandung, and Sukabumi. It was about 02:00 and most other places were closed or closing. Most of the food is already prepared (mid-day) or cooked except for the final step. You choose what you like and they will bring it to your table. Accompanying snacks, nasi uduk or rice with coconut milk (originally from Jakarta) wrapped in a banana leaf, and bottled drinks laid on the table. We had some grilled chicken, a sort of dried or preserved beef, and tempe. This was really delicious and light. Apparently, it is made from a cultured and fermentation process that binds soybeans together into a cake which is then sliced and fried. The result is a crispy, firm exterior and soft interior. It has a light, nutty flavor. The best part is that it is healthy for you being high in protein and fiber. Anyway, at the end of the meal, you pay for what you eat. It is very straight forward. Just tell the server what you ate and they calculate the price accordingly.

Sumatran food Padang cuisine(from the Minangkabau people) is the capital of West Sumatra. Pulling up, Restoran Padang had a steady trickle of motobikes pulling up with patrons asking for their nasi padang wrapped up for take away. The server scoops up some rice on a plate lined with paper and the patron points out what they want from the prepared food. I chose singkong (cassava leaf) as the primary vegetable with sambal hijau, the chili sauce, and topped off with beef rendang. The cooked cassava leaf had a nice, fibery texture and had a fiery tingle from the sauce. There was also other green vegetables that were more bitter in flavor like they were pickled, but also equally very spicy. The beef was very tender, though slightly drier than expected, but the sauce left from the evaporated coconut milk and spices was incredibly savory. Now this is a way better "fast food" option.

Soto Jakarta at Kemang Food FestivalThe Kemang Food Festival on Jalan Kemang Raya is an open-air (though covered) food court with multiple food stands with Indonesian food, steak, Italian, American, and Japanese. I felt a bit adverse to this food hall, but my host insisted on eating here for the variety of choices. Sit down at one of the wooden picnic tables in the courtyard and dozens of servers representing each vendor will surround you while you peruse the thick binder of menus. They patiently wait for your order and only one lucky server will return to the respective kitchen with your order. Out of the big menu book, my host chose for me Soto Jakarta, a soup with the coconut milk, vegetables, and meat accompanied by a banana leaf packet of rice. The rice soaked up the soup beautifully. The soup was slightly sweet, yet very spicy and penetrated the flavor of the meat and vegetables, which were not overcooked. Yum.

The foodie adventure in Indonesia is just beginning and we're only in Jakarta.

Monday, October 18, 2010

Noodle Bull Revisited

Vegetarian sesame paste noodles at Noodle Bull

With most expats still raving about Noodle Bull, the place deserved a second visit. It was a choice of ordering the same noodle soup again and seeing if it just happened to be that day's batch of broth. Fear still struck from the bland (and MSG-lacking) broth from the first visit, a soupless noodle dish was selected instead. The vegetarian sesame paste noodles were much more enjoyable than the noodles in beef soup. It came with julienned carrots, cucumber, and egg. You just mix everything up in the bowl. The combination was light, yet completely satisfying.

Pork and beancurd side at Noodle Bull Noodle Bull's take on Kimchi

In addition to the sesame paste noodles, I tried the pork and beancurd side as well as their take on kimchi. The pork and beancurd side completed the depth of the meal, especially if you are hankering for something more substantial and meaty. The kimchi, however, did lack the extra spicy kick, but was a welcomed presence in central Shanghai were decent Korean food is scarce.

At least now I know one of my default options if I do happen to be coerced into going to Noodle Bull again. Maybe one day the broth will present itself as a better memory to erase the old one.

Noodle Bull. 1f3b, No.291 Fumin Road, Xuhui District, Shanghai, People’s Republic of China. 上海市徐匯區富民路291號悟錦世紀大樓1F3B

Thursday, September 16, 2010

Breakfast Sandwich at Boulange

La Boulange Bakery Egg and Cheese SandwichEarly morning walking through Hayes Valley in the conflicting state of breakfast or sandwich, I walked into La Boulange. From the street you could see several diners inside reading the morning paper or working remotely and people queueing for a breakfast order, coffee, or pastry to go. Relatively large numbers of patrons in one place is promising. It turns out that La Boulange is actually a chain bakery in San Francisco, but this fact did not seem to deter regular customers.

The menu on the wall had the perfect breakfast sandwich to appease cravings for an American breakfast and a sandwich. It was hard to choose when the healthier yogurt options and tempting The egg and cheese sandwich (US$7.00) comes with tomato and a choice of bacon, ham, smoked salmon, or avocado on crossaint, plain or multigrain country bread with fresh fruit. My order had bacon with multigrain bread. If only the order could have come with all the options because I would have liked to try them all (without paying extra)...at least the avocado. It was hearty, but the bread was a little on the dry side causing slight abrasion in my mouth whilst chewing. There was not enough fluffy egg to balance the dryness or the addition of avocado could have helped. As much as I enjoyed eating this breakfast with the residents of Hayes Valley, this is something to try to recreate at home.

La Boulange Bakery. 500 Hayes Street (by Octavia), San Francisco, CA 94102, United States.

Monday, September 13, 2010

Golden Boy Pizza

Golden Boy Pizza in North Beach, San FranciscoAfter a couple pints at the local North Beach dive, Northstar Cafe, a friend points out a little pizza shop and says, "They have awesome pizza there, especially after a night of drinking." Outside on a early weekday evening, the queue extended about five deep all waiting for a large square slice (or entire pie). With local beer pumping in our blood, the smell was divine, but not for that night.

San Francisco is full of steep hills and all the going up and down makes thighs burn and stomachs rumble although benefitting your gluts. It's time for a mid-day snack and break before climbing Telegraph Hill to end a day of roaming that started at 08:00. The large sign pointing to Golden Boy Pizza is like a push from divinity telling you this is where you need to go. Taking a peek in the window, there are a few large, rectangular pies to entice the passerby. The crust looks thick and apparently is made of focaccia bread. The pizzas are loaded with toppings to match the girth of the crust.

Golden Boy Pizza pesto vegetarianFrom the till, the pesto vegetarian looks the best so I get a slice of that (US$3.50). Dinner is too close to get a more filling slice with meat. The server puts the slice in the oven to heat. It seems like most of the service is geared toward take away orders as there is not much space to dine in. My pesto vegetarian comes out hot and I am allowed to sprinkle as much oregano on it as I want (also parmesan cheese and pepper flakes are available) before the server wraps it up in paper. Consuming the slice will distract from the strenous uphill walk I am about to face. On closer inspection, there is a lovely layer of pesto with tomatoes, red onion, zucchini, mushrooms, and olives on top with the right amount of mozzarella. The vegetables are nicely roasted from the oven and not soggy. The paper was getting a little greasy, but at least not dripping in oil. It is decidedly a very California-influenced pizza, more Californian than classic Italian, but still looking really delicious and colorful. The first bite is vegetarian pizza joy. The crust was still crispy though thick, the pesto still present and not competing with either the crust and the toppings, and the vegetables tasted ripe and fresh. The slice is a bit on the heavy side and it was difficult to keep from flopping one way or another walking uphill. At least the paper managed to catch the toppings that fell off so not one shred of this pizza was left behind. The slice from Golden Boy is a great quick bite to walk away with.

Golden Boy Pizza. 542 Green Street, North Beach, San Francisco, CA 94133, United States. Telephone: +1.415.982.9738. Hours: Sunday-Thursday 11:30-23:30, Friday-Saturday 11:30-02:30. www.goldenboypizza.com

The Northstar Cafe. 1560 Powell Street (corner of Powell & Green), San Francisco, CA 94109, United States. Telephone: +1.415.397.0577. Hours: 13:00-02:00. Happy Hour: Monday-Friday 13:00-20:00. www.thenorthstarsf.com

Sunday, September 12, 2010

The American Grilled Cheese Kitchen

One South Park, San Francisco originally built as a tobacco warehouse during the early part of the 20th centurySitting in the baggage claim area of San Francisco International, a lone dismantled magazine covered with tidbits of the city's offerings beckons. Having done no prior research to arrival, The American Grilled Cheese Kitchen jumps out from the rest, not only by its reasonable price but that the restaurant specializes in unique versions of the snack and meal that defined more youthful years. It is thrilling that as restaurants become more specialized, its fare must correlate to its level of specialization in order to survive (or so I would like to think). As it turns out, I was going to a San Francisco Giants baseball game the following day during the lunch hour on a rare sunny day in the packed AT&T park that made you wonder if people really worked in this city or were just playing hooky.

A rare, unusually warm sunny day walking through San Francisco toward the Giants stadium passing through South Park admiring the charm and coveting a Public bicycle en route, I finally arrive at the front of the American Grilled Cheese Kitchen. The historical landmark building casts a shadow on its sidewalk dining area where airline pilots, tourists, Giants fans, and locals are lunching. There are even game day specials for drinks and organic iced tea. It is a little before noon and plenty of time to walk those few extra blocks to the stadium.

The American Grilled Cheese Kitchen counter San FranciscoThe walls are decorated in grilled cheese memorabilia, the menu on black chalkboard and has an overall focus on being local, sustainable, organic, environmentally aware, and green or all things representative of the ultimate San Franciscan emanating from the cozy decor of the interior. The line was short so before I was decided, I was already talking to the woman at the till. She tells me that the owner's favorite is the Black n' Blue - gorgonzola dolce, monterey jack, roast beef, arugula, balsamic onion marmalade, and sage butter. However, this is being replaced with the regular menu item Don Gondola of provolone, sopressatta salami, pesto, and garlic butter. She tells me the Jalapeño Popper (US$9.00) is her favorite. Though not a particular fan of jalapeños and definitely not one to seek them out, I oblige to her recommendation. At first, I hesitate being so long without cheese and wondering if a bite filled with too much ooey gooey dairy would result in something the opposite of digesting. She says she can tell the kitchen to go light on the cheese, but wanting the full experience, I opt not to. I am already thinking I should have ordered the Red, White, and Blue Plate Special (US$8.00 or +$1 for sandwiches over $8.00) to try their organic house-made tomato soup with crème fraîche and croutons. The house sodas (US$3.00) sounded really appealing, but all I wanted was a taste.

American Grilled Cheese Kitchen Jalapeño PopperI sat at the counter overlooking the kitchen window where the sandwiches are apparently toasted - not grilled - and employees are quickly filling orders pouring soup or adding a couple luscious strawberries to each sandwich order. In a case of not-so-mistaken identity, it turns out Nate Pollak is one of the owners of this place, though looking somewhat different from his university years. Already impressed by the mere venture of grilled cheese, its obvious success is equally impressive. My jalapeño popper made of chèvre, monterey jack, applewood-smoked bacon, and apricot-jalapeño relish arrives in a basket lined with brown paper and the presentation is given a colorful splash from the plump California strawberry I plan to conclude my meal with. The hearty country wheat bread is perfectly toasted with a crisp layer of caramelization which also keeps the contents of the sandwich from oozing and making the bread fall apart. Each bite is incredible. There is a perfect balance of cheese, bread, bacon, and jalapeño with no one flavor or texture overwhelming the other. The jalapeño-apricot combination was surprising, balancing the heat with sweetness and bringing out the subtle nuttiness of the salty cheese. The cuts of applewood-smoked bacon were thick and gave the grilled cheese a meaty depth. Sad as it was to see the sandwich end, each bite was strategically chosen so the last bite would be the perfect one balancing all the flavors.

As I am eating, the line is growing out the door regardless of how fast these people are grilling / toasting, packing, and registering orders. Just hearing patrons order different sandwiches makes me extremely curious to dive more into the menu. Alas, another time. Already waiting in great anticipation for the next visit after crossing the Pacific in the unforeseeable future.

The American Grilled Cheese Kitchen. 1 South Park Avenue, Suite 103A, San Francisco, CA 94107, United States. Telephone: +1.415.243.0107. Hours: Mon-Fri 8am-3pm, Sat 9am-3pm. www.theamericansf.com

Thursday, September 9, 2010

Cheese Shop Sandwich

After spending an extensive amount of time in Asia, cravings for a good sandwich start to magnify. Sandwiches are not showcased as a lunch-time meal (or any for that matter) so its presence and consistency is practically non-existent. The best sandwiches in Shanghai are at City Deli, better for ordering in than eating there. The turkey avocado is still outrageously priced for a standard sandwich at 68RMB (about US$10.00), but at least is large and incredibly filling.

Cheese Shop San Diego

Pleading to fellow Chowhounders on the message board, I was directed to the The Cheese Shop.

It was late in the afternoon. Promptly seated, I asked the server which sandwich he would recommend and told him to fix it however he would like it. He was surprised I let him have free range on my lunch, but seeing as he serves and sees numerous sandwiches in a day, he should know what is best. Sometimes you have to take a leap of faith when the idea of the ultimate sandwich has been marred by poorly constructed ones in Asia. I got the turkey avocado on wheat with salt and vinegar chips on the side. The sandwich was packed with slices of ripe, creamy avocado and deli turkey. The untoasted wheat bread could barely contain its contents. For my personal preference, a more hearty bread could have been chosen such as the ciabatta or thick rustic (an error on the diner's part). It was one big bite of sandwich goodness. The only thing it lacked was the crispy bacon I neglected to ask for to give the sandwich an extra crunch (or bites of the salt and vinegar chips could suffice). Yum. That avocado really topped it off.

Cheese Shop San Diego turkey avocado sandwich

My friend ordered the spinach and feta cheese omelette with a side of hash browns, which was generous with the spinach and feta. The hash browns were browned nicely, not so spectacular and the omelette good for what it was. The serving was large and filling, but perhaps these eyes have been used to Asian-sized portions for a while.

Cheese Shop San Diego spinach and feta omelette

The cost of my sandwich in the States was about as much as its Shanghainese equivalent. Considering the current standards of living in the States compared to China, the City Deli sandwich is relatively overpriced however tasty it is. A return visit to the Cheese Shop is needed to try one of the Cheese Shop Grilled Cheese Sandwiches because it is, after all, a cheese shop.

The Cheese Shop. 627 4th Avenue. San Diego, CA 92101, United States. Telephone: +1.619.232.2303. Hours: Mon-Fri 7 a.m. - 4 p.m., Sat-Sun 8 a.m. - 4 p.m. www.cheeseshopdeli.com

Tuesday, August 31, 2010

Cucina Urbana

Cucina Urbana

After passing on Laurel Restaurant for its high-priced menu, Cucina Urbana popped up giving those in the down economy a light with its reasonably priced rustic Italian dishes with a Californian touch. Rave reviews and word of mouth contributed to the popularity of the restaurant. Calling in Tuesday morning for reservations that evening, tables were already booked out aside from early and late dinner times. Seeing the packed dining room and bar, there was no way you could get a seating without a reservation.

The wait staff was very personable, friendly, and welcoming even though we were late arrivals and walk-ins were vying for our table. They invite diners to visit their wine retail store / "private" dining room as they only charge US$7.00 corkage fee for bottles purchased at retail. Excellent! The wine selection and menu placed a heavy emphasis on hot catch words like "organic," "local," and "sustainable." The food menu also featured daily specials for those looking for dining deals. The concept of the establishment was well-thought out. Diners help their tummies, their banks accounts, and the world.

Cucina Urbana barbecue octopus with salted fingerling potato, endive, radish, chili herb vinaigrette and lemon aioli Cucina Urbana stuffed squash blossoms (herb ricotta) with purple basil pesto and cured lemon dressing Inside stuffed squash blossoms

The two starters we ordered were the barbecue octopus with salted fingerling potato, endive, radish, chili herb vinaigrette and lemon aioli ($11.00) and stuffed squash blossoms (herb ricotta) with purple basil pesto and cured lemon dressing ($9.50). The barbecue octopus was incredibly tender and not tough at all, especially after expecting a texture somewhat similar to tako from previous octopus experiences. It was meaty, yet very light and had a light smokey flavor from the charring. The salad also had a bit of baby octopus or some other cephalopod, which was a little bit chewier. The endives gave a nice crunch to the otherwise softer textures on the plate. The stuffed blossoms were amazing and light, not over-breaded. The pesto served as a savory compliment to the the saltiness from the ricotta and tang from the lemon dressing. The stuffed blossoms really hit the spot.

Cucina Urbana crab ravioli Cucina Urbana eggplant parmigiana Cucina Urbana fig and gorgonzola pizza

Each main course was selected one from each area of the menu: pasta, piatti, and pizza. The crab ravioli seemed promising, but fell flat when it came to the actual crab filling. The crab was a little bit dry and could have benefitted from using chunks instead of whatever was centrifuged from the shells. However, the buttery sauce and cheese in the filling did not overwhelm the crab flavors allowing the crab to be the star of the dish. The tower of thickly sliced aubergine in the eggplant 'parmigiana' with gigante bean and escarole salad and shaved grana ($15.50) was easy to cut into. The eggplant was not bitter had a thick, breaded, crispy crust and layered with fine slices of mozzarella complimented with a light sauce using fresh and flavorful tomatoes. The fig and gorgonzola pizza with caramelized onion, candied pecan, arugula, and aged balsamic ($14.00) had a lovely, charred crust. The toppings were mostly hidden by the forest of arugula, but the peppery green did not overwhelm the entire pizza. Each bite was a surprise of sweet and savory from the ripe, deep-colored figs and the bite of the sweet balsamic acid. This combination was particularly pleasant for warmer summer days.

Dessert came out and we shared the bittersweet chocolate bundino ($8.00). The chocolate was incredibly rich and you can taste the higher percentage of cacao. The chocolate was creamy and smooth. Two small bites were almost too much, but chocoholics would definitely love this dessert. The espresso ($3.50) rounded off the meal nicely.

Looking around at the end of the early dinner, the dining room and bar were seated primarily by women sipping summer whites and roses and sharing antipasti plates. The occasional male present was claimed by a female counterpart by the looks of the suggestive body language. Regardless, Cucina Urbana definitely has the food and ambiance at a great price to make this a regular spot.

Cucina Urbana. 505 West Laurel Street San Diego, CA 92101-1634, United States. +1.619.239.2222. Open Tue-Thu 5pm-10pm; Fri-Sat 5pm-12am; Sun 5pm-9pm. www.cucinaurbana.com

Monday, August 30, 2010

Cafe Chloe

I actually came to Cafe Chloe several years ago when it first opened and the East Village was being gentrified as a hipper, more local alternative to the Gaslamp. A friend and I came late for a dessert of creme brulee and a bottle of sparkling wine to once again celebrate the fact that neither of us had money to spend. Flash-forward a few years later. The Chowhound boards are buzzing with recommendations for Cafe Chloe and the small wine bar established itself as a dining destination in San Diego.

Cafe Chloe Menu

On a Monday evening, the small restaurant was able to accommodate a party of three outside, though smashed around a tiny table. The "larger" tables inside were not that much bigger. With nice weather, it is nicer to sit outside anyway. The restaurant does not take reservations for smaller parties. Promptly seated, the server immediately asks what we would like to drink and even offers a small sampling of a few wines to accompany the meal. This detail of service is amazing because we got to choose a wine that suited our palates. Ended up going with a medium-bodied red to match the variety of dishes we selected created by chef Katie Grebow.

Corn and smoked mozzarella tart with pickled shallot

We shared the starter of the corn and smoked mozzarella tart with pickled shallot ($8.75), which was then cut into thirds for sharing. The corn added a sweet taste to the meatiness of the smoked mozzarella. Its summery taste matched the ambiance and was a good start for the dinner.

Cafe Chloe white sea bass Cafe Chloe Steak & Frites Plat du jour at Cafe Chloe

After some time as each dish is made to order, the entrees eventually came out. The local white sea bass with ragout of summer vegetables, herb salad, espellette pepper sauce, grilled ciabatta ($23.00) was lightly overcooked as we saw it sitting under the heat lamp waiting for the other dishes to finish preparation. The sea bass had a thick crust, but the fish inside was not light and flaky, but rather dry. The fish should have been prepared last out of the other dishes. Ordering the steak & frites with roquefort, onion marmalade, and sautéed spinach and wild mushroom ($21.75) also meant that Cafe Chloe will donate $1.00 to the S.D Food Bank's Food for Kids' Backpack Program, at least during the month of August. The steak was more on the rare side than the requested medium-rare, but was still succulent with the generous chunks of roquefort. The frites were also well-executed and added a new texture in between bites of steak. Also on the side were the spinach and a variety of tender wild mushrooms. The plat du jour: choucroute garnie- fresh cherries & brandy pork sausage, brined pork loin, spiced pork belly, sauerkraut and butterball potatoes ($23.00) showcased pork in one of its several forms. The pork belly tasted more buttery than spiced - so lusious. Pale in comparison were the sausage, still rich and slightly sweet, and the loin. Full from the dinner, we passed on the dessert.

The foodie mill was right to recommend Cafe Chloe as a great place to dine, but the experience was not as mind-blowing as the hype led it up to be. That was slightly disappointing because I expected each bite to provoke wide-eyed amazement and wonder of the food. Maybe my taste buds have been spoilt by too much foie gras imported from the southwest region of France.

Cafe Chloe. 721 9th Avenue, San Diego, CA 92101-6481, United States. (619) 232-3242. Open Weekdays 7:30am-10:30pm; Sat 8:30am-10:30pm; Sun 7:30am-9:30pm. www.cafechloe.com

Wednesday, August 18, 2010

Cabbie Pit Stop at 春和面馆

Chun He Mian Guan

Approaching the entrance of the large kitchen + seating area = restaurant, a Shanghai cabbie loudly clears his throat and spits on the already filthy stairs stairs. Another is washing his face at the outdoor sink. By the entrance, another taxi driver fills his thermos with hot water for his tea. The place is crammed with middle-aged men in dark pants, belt, and button-up short-sleeved shirts smoking and inhaling large bowls of soup, noodles, or rice maybe with a few early bottles of Suntory or waiting for a table to do so. Chun He Mian Guan is a taxi driver lunch haven.

Chun He Mian Guan pick-up

Meeting a few friends for lunch, the ladies taking orders at the counter as well as other drivers whisper, "Laowai! Laowai!" to one another pointing out those who are dining. I order the hong shou rou mian at 11RMB, which is a large bowl of soup with noodles and pork steeped in a soy sauce-based sauce. After ordering, you bring the ticket to the hot kitchen where one woman ladels the soup and noodles in a bowl, the other tops it off with greens and meat, and another shoves it in front of you. The method is quite efficient, but only if you manage to force your way to the front and push your order in the server's hands. No real queues to wait in here.

Chun He Mian Guan hong shou rou mian

The bowl is large and heavy with noodles cooked to perfection and a generous amount of thickly cut tender and flavorful meat. The broth emits a strong cumin flavor intermixed with coriander leaf. The broth is spicy and flavorful, though slightly sweet, a signature feature of the Shanghainese palate. The broth and taste of the niu rou mian (beef noodle soup) is light in comparison to this one. Already big, the meal is heavy on the stomach. Seeing as each bowl of the hong shou rou mian is 11RMB, the taxi drivers know where good value and tasty meals are at.

Chun He Mian Guan dining room full of taxi drivers

Apparently, Chun He Mian Guan is open 24-hours a day so the drivers can get properly fed according to their shifts. Dining is not fancy, but to the point. You are fed well and well-fed. This calls for finding more taxi driver dives in Shanghai.

Chun He Mian Guan (春和面馆). 1081 Changde Lu, near Anyuan Lu 常德路1081号, 近安远路, no phone number, open 24-hours

Tuesday, August 17, 2010

Dessert at Madison for Qixi 七夕 Festival

Madison dining room

Wholly owned by Austin Hu (who trained at New York's Gramercy Tavern), Madison is one of the latest additions to the fine dining scene in Shanghai. Qixi Festival or "Chinese Valentine's Day" offered a great reason to go out and indulge in a sweet extravagance.

The restaurant was empty for a Monday night around 22:00, but the purpose of the visit was dessert, not a meal. The kitchen closes at 23:00, though they will make concessions if you advise them on time. The room was dimly lit, simple and classy. At the larger tables, there was a thoughful space created in the table for the server so that each dish can easily be hand-placed in front of the diner.

Apple tart fine with goat cheese ice cream and brandy caramel sauce

The apple tart fine with goat cheese ice cream and brandy caramel at 60RMB jumped out from the menu. Goat cheese ice cream is an intriguing way to capture the tart sweetness from goat cheese. It did have a sort of gritty texture to it from the goat cheese and the method to make it silky and velvety-smooth is still being refined. The puff pastry used for the apple tart is made in-house although using imported French butter. At the moment, few necessities cannot be compromised and quality butter is one of them. Austin told us that he may switch to Irish butter soon, at least until a suitable China-sourced replacement is found. Anyway, the goat cheese ice cream was melting away on the warm, thin, tart fine. Breaking into the dessert with a spoon, the pastry gives a satisfying crackle. Covered with the caramel sauce, the brandy compliments the apple and goat cheese ice cream well. I would have preferred the brandy caramel to be thicker to match the weight of the puff pastry and goat cheese ice cream.

Baileys ice cream

The server informed us there are 15 different flavors of ice cream all made in-house at 20RMB per scoop. One of them included a Baileys flavor, which was smooth, creamy, and rich, just like the drink. It was adorned with a thin brittle giving a contrast to the smooth ice cream.

Citrus meringue with mulberry sauce

The head and humidity of Shanghai summers is offset by this light dessert. The meringue is perfectly cooked through and crispy the whole way through, melting on the tongue against the mulberry sauce and citrus sorbet. Wonderfully light and delicately sweet.

Madison in-house made berry sorbet and nut ice cream

Pairing together the nut ice cream and berry sorbet, your taste buds are transported back to the nostalgia of a good peanut butter and jelly sandwich. The nut ice cream is incredibly creamy and thick, almost like smooth peanut butter, and not artificially sweet. It is so rich and dense, you can hardly believe that this is ice cream. The berry sorbet is dark, fresh, and flavorful to match the richness of the nut ice cream.

Complimentary cashew brittle cookies from Madison

After paying the bill, we were offered complimentary cashew brittle cookies with bits of melted toffee. This had to be saved for later, unless gluttony (in the best sense) became overwhelming.

Austin Hu came to the table to see how we liked the dessert and simply talk to us. Hearing his approach to the direction of his restaurant shows that he is looking at fine dining past what he is able to produce on the table. Already, it is impressive that everything is produced in-house, including the lardo he is starting to prepare, as well as focusing on these high-quality ingredients being fresh. More impressive is his goal to source high-quality products locally, at least within China, and extend that to every single part of his restaurant. He sets out to build relationships with the source, a trust that will ensure the consistent quality of the food. Sourcing locally is a trend already with lots of steam in the West and it is nice to see the same attitude displayed in China. New Shanghai chefs tend to be more liberal with sharing their source list, showing that the dining scene is escalating to feature the unique talents of each chef although maybe using the same product as another.

The desserts were amazing. hoF may be the front-runner in most people's minds for chocolate cake and decadance (while still minding a budget), but for the next step in quality and thoughtfulness, the desserts at Madison is where it is at. Looking forward to what else Austin Hu has planned for his menu.

Madison. 3/F, 18 Dongping Lu, near Hengshan Lu, 东平路18号, 近衡山路, Shanghai, People's Republic of China