Monday, December 8, 2008

The Double Club - Bar

“Half art, half not.” - Carsten Höller

The Double Club Bar

You are in two places at the same time. Think Congo meets the west. The Double Club, new art-installation-slash-club opened this month in Islington for 6 months in a space where you can linger between Congolese and western cultures. Art, food, and music exist in this single space encompassing dual worlds. The space is sub-divided by the restaurant, the bar, and the club. It is a refreshing place compared to the well-trodden West End stomping grounds.

The club entrance is off a narrow street, easy to miss if it is not being explicitly sought out. Security at the door was kind and the reception by staff was helpful, quickly taking burdensome coats to expedite the experience. The Double Club Bar is an open space with the candle-lit restaurant and throbbing club in view on either side from windows. Elements of Kinshasa are seamlessly juxtaposed with Western roots through the art covering the high walls as well as the furniture and the texture of the floor. On the particular Saturday night, the music – different from the club room – oscillated between African beats and Western grooves, depending on the mood of the DJ. The platform the DJ booth rests on rotates so smoothly that the dancer hardly notices while moving into the Congo and back to the West that is London.

Cocktails at this bar are noteworthy and memorable. The sensation of a hot climate seeps through the Jamaican Mule, which was heightened by Afro-Caribbean music playing at the time. One of the bartenders, Abu, is energetic and even offers to enthrall the drinker with inventive cocktails and shots not listed on the menu. One standout shot was the Bellini shot. So tasty. Specialty cocktails ranged from £7.50 while champagne cocktails were at £8.50.

The vibe of the club is not pretentious as the fashionable clientele ranged from those basking in the atmosphere, migrating over from the restaurant hosted and operated by Mourad Mazouz, appreciating the art, and enjoying the music. The Double Club is a chill venue to cross time and space while dancing to a global grove and indulging in its cocktail delights.

THE DOUBLE CLUB. 7 Torrens Street, London EC1V 1NQ. Telephone: +44.207.837.2222

Wednesday, December 3, 2008

Día de Acción de Gracias

Thanksgiving is a major holiday in the United States that is slightly more difficult to prepare for and celebrate in other countries, in this case Spain. Preparation already begins at a disadvantage since common commodities such as certain spices and other ingredients vital to a Thanksgiving feast are not readily available. Grocery stores are not to the same size and caliber as those in the United States, so visits to several different locations is necessary to find everything on the shopping list. Larger kitchen appliances and fancy gadgets are required for the basic staples of the meal. This includes a larger oven (or a second oven altogether), a baster, gravy separator, roasting pan with rack, needle, and twine and basics of measuring cups and spoons. Hesitation to acquire these materials amounted to the fact that the cost on a low budget superseded the utility of the items.

Spice Rubbed and stuffedThe centerpiece of the feast is the turkey, difficult to find for the non-native in a country that produces every pork product imaginable. As well as being available in the neighborhood mercados, the turkey was found at a local pollería and special ordered at approximately at 5.3 kilograms. Turkey is generally perceived as bland and dry, so this year the turkey was a bit spiced up. Drawing from a highly rated recipe and recommendations by its reviewers, el pavo was marinated the day before roasting with a spice rub consisting of coriander, cumin, peppercorns, cinnamon, smoked sweet paprika, cardamom, and anis.

Basting with spoonConcern was centered on the Spanish oven with its numerous options and complicated dials along with the warning that the heating mechanism is inadequate. What is "turbo"? Microwave and grill at the same time? The greatest fault of the oven is that it turned off any time the oven door was opened after the release was pressed. The oven was also very small and could barely accommodate the size of the turkey and the pan to catch its drippings. For lack of a roasting pan, the turkey rested on a grill shelf and a large glass pan was set underneath to catch drippings and hold stock used to steam the bird as it simultaneously roasted, which took up all the available oven space. The method for cooking the bird using this particular oven was to turn the heat up at the highest setting and let the bird cook for one hour with 1 1/2 cup of stock in the pan, then 2 cups for 2 hours, then dousing the turkey with remaining 2 cups stock and covering the turkey lightly with foil for one hour. The recipe instructed that the oven be set to 450°F the first hour and lowered to 350°F for the remainder of the cooking time using an 18-20lb turkey. Considering the inadequacy of the oven, this was compensated for. The traditional baster was substituted by two people pouring stock over the turkey with large spoons and maneuvering carefully to not get burned by the heat retained in the oven walls yet still cover the entire bird evenly. After the allotted amount of time, the bird was removed from the oven and allowed to rest wrapped over a butcher block with foil. Checking to ensure the internal temperature of the bird registered 175°F was forgone for the lack of a proper thermometer.

First cut into spiced turkey Carved turkey, stuffing removed

The proprietor of the Spanish kitchen in use said something along the lines of "a real cook does not use measurements." Improvising to guesstimate the portions measured out for the stuffing as well as the southern biscuits. One useful tool is a sports water bottle with milliliter and ounce scales drawn on its sides for measuring approximations. Baking is a chemistry. However, southern cooking (including biscuits) does not require the use of accurate measurements. Quick mental conversions from Imperial to Metric scales were also made on the fly while cooking. In place of buttermilk, a substitute was created using the recipe-given measurement of milk plus a tablespoon of lemon juice. The substitute may be used to maintain the consistency of the batter and is only good for cooking or baking. The milk in Spain did not thicken properly, so natural unsweetened yogurt was used with milk and a tablespoon of lemon juice and sugar (to add a hint of sweetness) at a ratio of 2:1, proving to be more effective.

Biscuit Batter Biscuits baking in pyrex
Herb Stuffing

For further Thanksgiving convenience, multiple items were crammed into the oven to complete cooking, baking, and reheating. This included the sweet potato casserole offered by a guest.

Crammed Spanish oven

The final outcome overall was successful and food disappeared quickly from the Thanksgiving table. The experience of preparing the meal without having an adequately outfitted kitchen was a test of adaptability, flexibility, and improvisation. Of course, a good attitude and patience helped give confidence towards a delicious Thanksgiving meal.

Spice Rub
2 tablespoons plus 1 teaspoon coriander seeds
1 1/2 teaspoons cumin seeds
1 1/2 teaspoons whole black peppercorns
1 cinnamon stick, broken in half
2 tablespoons coarse kosher salt
1 1/2 tablespoons smoked sweet paprika (pimentón dulce)
1 1/2 teaspoons each of cardamom and anis (optional, by recommendation)

Cognac Gravy
1 ounce cognac
1/3 cup dry vermouth
4 tablespoons turkey drippings
1/3 cup flour

Separate fat and pan juices. Keep about 4 tablespoons on reserve. Set roasting pan on burner with medium-high heat and deglaze with cognac and vermouth, scraping up the caramelized bits with a wooden spoon. Add degreased pan juices. In a separate saucepan over a medium-low flame, heat turkey fat and add flour to create a rue. Whisk constantly for about 3 minutes so the flour is evenly mixed and cooked. Add pan-juice mixture, season with salt and pepper, and whisk until smooth and thickened.

Stuffing
1 large baguette or baton of crusty day-old bread, cut into cubes (over 2 cups)
3 medium onions (almost 3 cups)
4-5 stalks celery (about 2 1/2 cups)
1/2 cup or 1 stick butter, maybe more
1/3 cup chopped Italian flat-leaf parsley
1 cup or so chopped spinach
2 Tablespoons dried sage
1-2 Tablespoons dried thyme
1-2 Tablespoons dried rosemary
2 dashes of dried oregano
Salt and freshly ground black pepper
1 1/4 cup turkey or chicken broth or stock

Over medium heat in a large, heavy skillet, melt butter so it is hot but not smoking and cook celery and onion for about 15 minutes. In a separate pot, wilt spinach for a couple minutes with about 2 tablespoons of water. If bread is not day-old or older, cut into cubes and spread evenly on a baking sheet and toast in the oven until the bread cubes feel dry so it will soak up the broth. In a large bowl, hand mix vegetables and herbs before tossing bread cubes. Pour in stock and season with salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste. Bake in 450°F oven until cooked through and crusty on top, about 50 minutes.

Buttermilk Biscuits
1 1/2 cups all-purpose flour
1 1/2 tablespoons sugar
1 1/2 teaspoons baking powder
Rounded 1/4 teaspoon salt
1/4 teaspoon baking soda
1/2 stick (1/4 cup) cold unsalted butter, cut into 1/2-inch cubes
3/4 cup buttermilk or substitute (see reference above)
1 tablespoon milk or cream for brushing biscuits

In a bowl, mix flour, sugar, baking powder, baking soda, and salt. Cut in butter. Add buttermilk until mixture looks scrappy. Sometimes more buttermilk is needed to make the batter wet enough. Be careful not to over-mix. On floured surface, pour out batter from bowl and knead gently about 6-8 times, adding more flour if necessary. Roll out to about ½ inch thickness. Using a sharp round cutter, create biscuit rounds and place on a baking sheet ensuring that all the biscuits touch. Brush tops with milk. Bake biscuits in 450°F oven for about 15 minutes or until lightly golden.

Friday, November 21, 2008

Chocolatería San Ginés

Hidden from the obvious eyes lingering between Calle Arenal and Calle Mayor in Spain is the famous Madrileño haunt of Chocolatería San Ginés, established in 1894. The aromas of chocolate and hot fried dough waft into the passage luring in inquisitive noses. Within the café with its marble bar, green panelling, mirrored walls, and antiquated fixtures the visitor can indulge in the popular Spanish treat of chocolate con churros.

The phrasing implies hot chocolate served in a small ceramic cup nested on a saucer with a little spoon and accompanied by a ration of churros or porras and table or confectioner’s sugar to sprinkle or drown your churros in. Perhaps also a cold glass of water as well to assist the palate. The difference between a churro and a porra is that a churro is thinner with ridges that attract more chocolate while a porra is thicker, both of which balance out the intense sweetness of the chocolate. Churros or porras are made by extruding dough directly into hot oil. Thus, the place to consume chocolate con churros has been dubbed “churrería.” Preferably, the chocolate will taste slightly bitter to reveal the depth of the cacao content and the churros will not get soggy from excess oil. The chocolate is so rich and thick that you can rest your spoon upon the surface of a cold cup of chocolate and it will barely make a dent. Both the chocolate and the churros are best consumed while both are hot.

Chocolate con churros

As Chocolatería San Ginés is an authentic chucherría, the server arrives at the table promptly after the patron is seated to take the order and soon after the chocolate con churros arrive. The service is efficient and attentive. At San Ginés, the chocolate is slightly sweet and the churros are guaranteed to be warm, though the porras are not. However, the chocolate con churros served at Valor, a popular Spanish chocolate confectioner and chocolatería (also in Madrid), is preferred only because the chocolate is more bitter and also comes in different varieties, such as with a touch of hot chili oil, which gives the chocolate a barely-there heat that you can feel after it passes your throat. In any case, San Ginés is the perfect place to enter the world of chocolate con churros.

Interior of San Ginés

The method of consumption is simple: sugar the churro, dip the churro in your It is often consumed for breakfast, as a late afternoon snack, or an evening treat. The pairing of smooth, dark chocolate and slightly salty fried dough of the churros create perfect balance for the palate.

Pasadizo de San Ginés 11

Tuesday, November 18, 2008

Autostadt Currywurst

Among the museums and pavilions glorifying Volkswagen automobiles and other brands it owns such as Bugatti and Lamborghini is the coveted VW currywurst sitting in the TachoMeter within the walls of the Autostadt. A popular commodity of the German diet, the currywurst, best known for its presence in Berlin, is argued better outside the capital city in Wolfsburg, near Hannover. Often served on a roll of bread with a generous dousing of curry powder, the traditional sausage is set apart by the fact that it is made on-site with sausage machinery at the VW plant. Access to the VW wurst is only granted to company employees and visitors to the Autostadt.

At the Tachometer, currywurst is accompanied by a slathering of tangy tomato sauce, a small salad, and pommes frites. Curry powder is used to preference, though usually enough to cover a visible layer over the tomato sauce. The wurst is cooked on a flat grille slicked with vegetable oil until the skin is nicely roasted and caramelized. The size of the wurst is substantially larger and longer than wursts commonly found on Berlin street corners extending the length of the plate. The flavor of the wurst is not too strong, balancing out the curry powder and the sweet and tangy flavor of the ketchup or tomato sauce also supposedly made on-site.

Currywurst

While enjoying a traditional currywurst, diners can over look the KundenCenter or Customer Center and watch as buyers wait for their new Volkswagen delivered right to their feet from the glass storage towers across the way with an odometer reading of “0”. Indulgence of this German national food is only matched by famed German automotive engineering.

Wednesday, October 22, 2008

McFlurry International

One of the constant things expected whilst abroad is McDonald’s because chances are wherever you go the golden arches will provide a point of familiarity. The Big Mac, fries, and a coke will and should always taste the same no matter where the order is placed in the world. Dependability is the key word here.

However, there are some of the differences in the McDonald’s of the world are demonstrated in their classic dessert, the McFlurry. Each country or region has its own McFlurry flavors and specialties, including the limited edition Cadbury mini-egg McFlurry or the Wispa (also made by Cadbury) in the United Kingdom. The endeavor of understanding the facets of the McFlurry began in Northern Ireland and the journey has extended so far to western Europe.

What makes a good McFlurry? First of all, it is the base – the quality of the vanilla soft-serve used. The flavor and texture of the vanilla soft-serve is universal. Experience with off-tasting soft-serve in central London should alert the consumer that once in a while, it is important to test for the quality of the soft-serve and resist immediately indulging oneself. The second indicator is how well the soft-serve and candy pieces are mixed together. Some McDonald’s locations do not even fit the McFlurry spoon to the machine to evenly distribute the candy in the soft-serve. If chocolate, caramel, or strawberry syrup is added, it should not alter the texture of the soft-serve.

Consumption of a McFlurry is best accompanied by a cup of water and perhaps a side of fries. The salty quality of the fries balances the sweetness of the McFlurry.

The best McFlurry by far is the Taste of America, available for a limited time in the United Kingdom. It encompassed the vanilla soft-serve base with Oreo cookie mixed in with a toffee swirl. Initially, it was difficult to attain because the McDonald’s locations would run out of toffee syrup in stock.

The worst McFlurry goes to Malmö, Sweden for the Bilar McFlurry. The addition of marshmallows was a nice touch, increasing the variety of texture. The sticky sweet lime-flavored lime-green sugar syrup destroyed the flavor balance and transformed the texture of the soft-serve to something less palatable.

McFlurry

Extra props are given to Poland and Austria for adding chocolate, caramel, or strawberry syrup in addition to the candy pieces free of charge. Two mixers enhance the enjoyment of the McFlurry experience. To great dissatisfaction, that the addition of the syrup made the McFlurry more runny.

McFlurry


**UPDATE** 18 November 2008
Baci Mcflurry, ReykjavikWhilst in Iceland, the opportunity arose to sample the McFlurry if a McDonald's existed in Iceland. The variant available is Baci - meaning "kiss" in Italian - and not any of the flavors popular in Iceland including licorice or salted fish (understandably a long shot). Baci is a chocolate sauce with peanuts and will turn the McFlurry a brown color. Careful sampling resulted in the conclusion that the Baci sauce is better suited served warm for sundaes and not to go through the McFlurry mechanism.

Goettingen, Germany is applauded for its established expectation that the McFlurry will have a well-incorporated mix of soft-serve and the mix.

Wednesday, June 11, 2008

1 Lombard Street

Perhaps it is best that the first official gastronomical entry in this blog is jump-started by a Michelin starred restaurant in London. Might as well start at the top and branch out from there.

Although quite unfortunate that the epicurean exploration is limited by a tight budget, it was most fortunate that London was celebrating Restaurant Week, giving the lightly laden coin purse the space to bulk out. The glory of Restaurant Week allowed for the sampling of high cuisine at an affordable price. Dinner at 1 Lombard Street was served at the elegant Brasserie, which still had available tables opposed to the Restaurant. The Brasserie has a wonderful dome that allows lets in light to soak all corners of the space in a bright yet soft glow until night settles in. Accompanied by three other dining companions, we were seated near the rear of the Brasserie surrounded by enormous flowering bouquets of lilies.

The set menu offered at the Brasserie also displayed a vegetarian-friendly meal plan for the evening. The server informed us that selections from both menus were permitted for the course of the meal. An assortment of bread was served while waiting for the first course.

The first course was a crème endive and apple soup with white truffle oil. Served warm in an espresso cup, it opened up the palate for the rest of the meal.

Salmon was served as the second course. It was served atop roasted cucumbers and encircled in a parsley pesto and Asian-inspired sauce with teriyaki sweetness. The vegetarian option for this course was delicately grilled vegetables, which I was told was the most delicious vegetables the vegetarian diner had ever tasted.

Salmon Appetizer

The main course consisted of chicken with mushroom risotto being the vegetarian option. The chicken was set atop mashed potatoes with a creamy sauce and small roasted shallots. Large shavings of parmesan cheese rested upon the mushroom risotto encircled in another herb pesto. The risotto was rich and meaty from the mushroom flavor, yet very light on the palate.

Chicken MushroomRisotto

Chocolate Torte

To cleanse the palate, a granizo was served in a shot glass. The granizo had touches of watermelon, ginger, and berries. Quite refreshing!

To conclude the meal, dessert consisted of a small chocolate cake with molten center accompanied by a raspberry sorbet and cocoa powder.

Overall, the experience at the brasserie was quite positive. The meal was a generous 5 courses that were light, but filling. Perhaps one day in the far future a call for a second visit will arise, once the purse can fit the budget.

The adventure begins

This blog was created to record the embarkation of a grander adventure of eating, drinking, and wandering about. Eating fills the stomach and makes one feel whole. Drinking (always within moderation) soothes the soul and relaxes the body and mind. Wandering around satisfies the hunger of curiosity and the lust for life. Frenzied Palate aims to capture the link between the three and the wonders of life's simplicities.