The centerpiece of the feast is the turkey, difficult to find for the non-native in a country that produces every pork product imaginable. As well as being available in the neighborhood mercados, the turkey was found at a local pollería and special ordered at approximately at 5.3 kilograms. Turkey is generally perceived as bland and dry, so this year the turkey was a bit spiced up. Drawing from a highly rated recipe and recommendations by its reviewers, el pavo was marinated the day before roasting with a spice rub consisting of coriander, cumin, peppercorns, cinnamon, smoked sweet paprika, cardamom, and anis.
Concern was centered on the Spanish oven with its numerous options and complicated dials along with the warning that the heating mechanism is inadequate. What is "turbo"? Microwave and grill at the same time? The greatest fault of the oven is that it turned off any time the oven door was opened after the release was pressed. The oven was also very small and could barely accommodate the size of the turkey and the pan to catch its drippings. For lack of a roasting pan, the turkey rested on a grill shelf and a large glass pan was set underneath to catch drippings and hold stock used to steam the bird as it simultaneously roasted, which took up all the available oven space. The method for cooking the bird using this particular oven was to turn the heat up at the highest setting and let the bird cook for one hour with 1 1/2 cup of stock in the pan, then 2 cups for 2 hours, then dousing the turkey with remaining 2 cups stock and covering the turkey lightly with foil for one hour. The recipe instructed that the oven be set to 450°F the first hour and lowered to 350°F for the remainder of the cooking time using an 18-20lb turkey. Considering the inadequacy of the oven, this was compensated for. The traditional baster was substituted by two people pouring stock over the turkey with large spoons and maneuvering carefully to not get burned by the heat retained in the oven walls yet still cover the entire bird evenly. After the allotted amount of time, the bird was removed from the oven and allowed to rest wrapped over a butcher block with foil. Checking to ensure the internal temperature of the bird registered 175°F was forgone for the lack of a proper thermometer.
The proprietor of the Spanish kitchen in use said something along the lines of "a real cook does not use measurements." Improvising to guesstimate the portions measured out for the stuffing as well as the southern biscuits. One useful tool is a sports water bottle with milliliter and ounce scales drawn on its sides for measuring approximations. Baking is a chemistry. However, southern cooking (including biscuits) does not require the use of accurate measurements. Quick mental conversions from Imperial to Metric scales were also made on the fly while cooking. In place of buttermilk, a substitute was created using the recipe-given measurement of milk plus a tablespoon of lemon juice. The substitute may be used to maintain the consistency of the batter and is only good for cooking or baking. The milk in Spain did not thicken properly, so natural unsweetened yogurt was used with milk and a tablespoon of lemon juice and sugar (to add a hint of sweetness) at a ratio of 2:1, proving to be more effective.
For further Thanksgiving convenience, multiple items were crammed into the oven to complete cooking, baking, and reheating. This included the sweet potato casserole offered by a guest.
The final outcome overall was successful and food disappeared quickly from the Thanksgiving table. The experience of preparing the meal without having an adequately outfitted kitchen was a test of adaptability, flexibility, and improvisation. Of course, a good attitude and patience helped give confidence towards a delicious Thanksgiving meal.
Spice Rub
2 tablespoons plus 1 teaspoon coriander seeds
1 1/2 teaspoons cumin seeds
1 1/2 teaspoons whole black peppercorns
1 cinnamon stick, broken in half
2 tablespoons coarse kosher salt
1 1/2 tablespoons smoked sweet paprika (pimentón dulce)
1 1/2 teaspoons each of cardamom and anis (optional, by recommendation)
Cognac Gravy
1 ounce cognac
1/3 cup dry vermouth
4 tablespoons turkey drippings
1/3 cup flour
Separate fat and pan juices. Keep about 4 tablespoons on reserve. Set roasting pan on burner with medium-high heat and deglaze with cognac and vermouth, scraping up the caramelized bits with a wooden spoon. Add degreased pan juices. In a separate saucepan over a medium-low flame, heat turkey fat and add flour to create a rue. Whisk constantly for about 3 minutes so the flour is evenly mixed and cooked. Add pan-juice mixture, season with salt and pepper, and whisk until smooth and thickened.
Stuffing
1 large baguette or baton of crusty day-old bread, cut into cubes (over 2 cups)
3 medium onions (almost 3 cups)
4-5 stalks celery (about 2 1/2 cups)
1/2 cup or 1 stick butter, maybe more
1/3 cup chopped Italian flat-leaf parsley
1 cup or so chopped spinach
2 Tablespoons dried sage
1-2 Tablespoons dried thyme
1-2 Tablespoons dried rosemary
2 dashes of dried oregano
Salt and freshly ground black pepper
1 1/4 cup turkey or chicken broth or stock
Over medium heat in a large, heavy skillet, melt butter so it is hot but not smoking and cook celery and onion for about 15 minutes. In a separate pot, wilt spinach for a couple minutes with about 2 tablespoons of water. If bread is not day-old or older, cut into cubes and spread evenly on a baking sheet and toast in the oven until the bread cubes feel dry so it will soak up the broth. In a large bowl, hand mix vegetables and herbs before tossing bread cubes. Pour in stock and season with salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste. Bake in 450°F oven until cooked through and crusty on top, about 50 minutes.
Buttermilk Biscuits
1 1/2 cups all-purpose flour
1 1/2 tablespoons sugar
1 1/2 teaspoons baking powder
Rounded 1/4 teaspoon salt
1/4 teaspoon baking soda
1/2 stick (1/4 cup) cold unsalted butter, cut into 1/2-inch cubes
3/4 cup buttermilk or substitute (see reference above)
1 tablespoon milk or cream for brushing biscuits
In a bowl, mix flour, sugar, baking powder, baking soda, and salt. Cut in butter. Add buttermilk until mixture looks scrappy. Sometimes more buttermilk is needed to make the batter wet enough. Be careful not to over-mix. On floured surface, pour out batter from bowl and knead gently about 6-8 times, adding more flour if necessary. Roll out to about ½ inch thickness. Using a sharp round cutter, create biscuit rounds and place on a baking sheet ensuring that all the biscuits touch. Brush tops with milk. Bake biscuits in 450°F oven for about 15 minutes or until lightly golden.
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