Nero di Seppia da Shanghai

I went to Luna Bianca before at the recommendation of a long-time expat hanging around Taikang Lu for a good pizza. Whilst there, this girl was eating a black squid ink pasta and it was dying her mouth black. When she opened her mouth, her teeth were washed over with black and her lips painted. It was quite a sight. Her family members made a lot of fun of her. She looked embarrassed at first, but completely dominated the whole meal. I could smell that sweet black ink from where I was sitting.

Went back again a few weeks later on a solo mission. Once seated, the server greeted me with a small selection of bread, which looks like excess pizza dough reformed and thrown in the oven. The tagliatelle came out deep black from the squid ink sauce. It was so black, the plate was dyed. There were chunks of squid, whole mussels, and some shrimp nestled in the pasta. It existence was almost denied to the eye from the deep, jet-black mess. After one bite, I wiped my mouth and the napkin revealed a sauce so dark it was like a black fountain pen exploded in my mouth. Oh my. That is a mess. I did not think this could be possible with nero di seppia. The bits of seafood were plentiful though seemingly hidden and not overcooked. The black ink sauce was smooth, slightly sweet, and savory with a deep flavor from the seafood.

Tagliatelle al nero di seppia dyes everything black inside and out. Literally. It was an unusual gastronomic experience. However, the meal was thoroughly enjoyable and challenged a palate used to tomato, cream, and pesto based sauces.

Luna Bianca. 38, Lane 155 Jian Guo Zhong Lu 建国中路155弄38号. Shanghai, People’s Republic of China