The Alchemist: Feeling Like a Stumped Scientist

Before its grand opening, I went with a couple of friends to check out Kelley Lee's newest venture, The Alchemist, which is focused on creations exploring the bounds of molecular gastronomy. Outside the kitchen, all the creations are overseen by Ryan Noreiks, from Brisbane, Australia. The atmosphere is swanky, cozy, and not so loud making it ideal for after-work drinks, conversation, or a date. The chandelier created out of spoons is a unique touch and gesture to experimentation.

The Hong was the first drink I ordered made of Tanqueray gin, quinquina dubonnet, rhubarb bitters, and grapefruit air. It came out in an elegant bowl-like vessel and a large atomizer (think giant perfume bottle) accompanied it. The server spritzed the drink with this "grapefruit air" before disappearing. The presentation was impressive and fun. It was a lovely take on a bramble and not so overpriced for a molecular cocktail. I also enjoyed the Dark Mystic, which tasted like a Christmas explosion from the chocolate and warm, spiced bite. However, when the Yangtze River cocktail came out, we immediately became confused. The table was also expecting a foie gras order with the knowledge that its presentation may be deceiving. With all the vials, vessels, cups, and bowls that the drinks were being served in, without experience you are unsure of what to expect. The Yangtze River take on a Long Island Iced Tea came out in two parts: 1 cup of alcoholic sorbet and an espresso cup of tea. We stared at it for a while wondering if the foie gras was hiding under a pear compote. Only until Kelley Lee came out we realized that it was not a foie gras concoction, but the cocktail. Oops. Only later did the foie gras plate come out and the sugared bits glittering on the plate were the candied bacon. Another issue arose when the fish tartar was presented with a large vial of gaseous liquid. Were we supposed to pour the whole bottle over the raw fish? Only when Kelley Lee came out again was it explained that the dry ice in the chardonnay made a gas to "perfume the dish." Without instruction, we could have ignorantly destroyed the dish. The transition from presentation to consumption could be eased if only the servers were better trained at this point to explain how everything is consumed immediately upon arrival to the table.

The experience at The Alchemist was fun, interactive, and highly entertaining. As a patron, you feel more involved with the food and drinks wondering what it is and how they did it. It is a place that food enthusiasts will enjoy and a place to impress your friends.


The Alchemist. Sinan Mansions, Block 32, 45 Sinan Lu, near Fuxing Zhong Lu 思南路45号32号楼，近复兴西路. Shanghai, China