Apothecary Sunday Dinner Fried Chicken

If the classic cocktails with an inventive twist are not enough to get lure you into Apothecary, then perhaps the American southern inspired Creole cuisine will. Apothecary came down to jazz up Shanghai from its original location in Beijing with its in-house-made touches and quadruple distilled ice cubes. It made its home in Sinan Mansions and is not to be confused with the nearby Alchemist, which specializes in molecular gastronomic drinks. Apothecary tries to make everything that can possibly be made in-house from its breads (still in works) down to the bitters used in its drinks. The front entrance displays bitters and tequila batches (for its Mi Amante cocktails) curing in jars that indicate when it was made. Just in its soft opening, Apothecary already started its Sunday dinner featuring fried chicken, biscuits, and coleslaw. The menu claimed in writing that the kitchen at Apothecary will remain open until 01:00. That guarantees you can get your fill of bar bites while enjoying one of their several concoctions.

The service staff is still in training, but at least eager to please and not afraid to ask the managers for advice on bettering their work (as witnessed). The managers were also apologetic about the current state of their service and were eager to ensure that they aim to improve service significantly in the near future. After ordering a dirty vodka martini and receiving a delicious gin and tonic in return, management gave the gin and tonic as a complimentary drink and reason for pardon while the dirty vodka martini was being prepared. Their consideration also guaranteed that waste was not made!


The dinner that was supposed to be centered on country fried chicken became a dinner sandwiched by bacon, which is cut and cured in-house. Greens with poached egg and maple bacon (50RMB) included the description of "mash the egg on top and leer at the runny yolk oozing out of the fried poached egg melting into the baconified greens. It's rather obscene...obscenely good." It was pretty good. The greens had a bit of stalk in them, a tad leafy, and cut into bite-sized portions. It remained crunchy and light to balance the saltiness of the thickly-sliced bacon. After puncturing the lightly poached egg and letting the yolk run out, the egg was tossed with the greens and bacon, almost visibly disappearing in the dish. The combination was excellent: salty, thick bacon you can really chew on, crunchy cooked greens for a fresh bite, and a luscious coating from the yolk. If only there was more bacon...

The reason for dining at Apothecary on a Sunday evening is the fried chicken special only available on Sundays. Currently, half a chicken with 2 biscuits and coleslaw is priced at 100RMB while a whole chicken with 4 biscuits and coleslaw comes at 200RMB. A whole, large organic chicken arrived on a massive plate, though pre-cut to fry appropriately, and on a second plate the biscuits and red cabbage coleslaw. The chicken is prepared by brining in advance before battering and frying. From the look of the chicken cuts on the plate, the deeply brown whole chicken was there, but cut in pairs of wing, breast, and drumstick pieces so it was easy to share and divide the bird in half. It is encouraged to eat the fried chicken with your hands instead of being polite about it with a fork and knife. The batter was simply seasoned with generous amounts of black and white pepper to allow the natural flavors of the chicken to come through. It was light not weighing down the exterior of the chicken yet incredibly crunchy and, at times, you would get bites of pure, crispy, delicious fried batter. The meat is cooked all the way to the bone and moist throughout with particularly supple and plump breasts. There was enough chicken to easily satisfy four diners or leave two absolutely stuffed. Management informed us that they will be soon switching to a new supplier of organic chicken that apparently gives its birds a special wheat feed that imparts a slightly sweeter taste to the chicken meat. This new bird will tack on 50RMB to the current price of the whole chicken dinner.

The biscuits had a texture more of a popover than a buttermilk biscuit. It looked like batter was dropped in small muffin tins and allowed to "pop over" giving the biscuit an airy, though somewhat chewy texture. It was incredibly buttery, but being more of a popover, throwing some fresh herbs in the batter would have helped balance out the peppery taste of the fried chicken. The red cabbage coleslaw was not mayonnaise-based and tasted very sweet.

The end of the dinner sandwiched with bacon was a dessert of candied maple bacon. The idea is thrilling as candied bacon implies both sweet and salty in one meaty bite. Or maybe it was from watching too many episodes of Epic Meal Time that the excitement of bacon became paramount. The thick-cut candied bacon was served on a plate roughly chopped to bite-sized chunks. There was a thin layer of what seemed to be granulated sugar on the bacon, as if freshly fried bacon was dredged in a vat of granulated sugar to candy. Whatever sugar clung to the bacon pieces were probably there from absorbing all that pork fat. The texture from this felt a bit gritty in your mouth. For some reason, my expectation was that the candied portion would basically be cooked bacon covered in a layer of sugar heated at least to a low-ball stage so the bacon would shine from the sugaring and not grease. Regardless, it tasted wonderfully salty, sweet, and smoky.

Just as the drink menu provokes exploration, the Creole-style food should also not be ignored. It will be interesting to see what in-house creations are made as this dining trend is also getting attention from Austin Hu at Madison. Summer should also be favorable to Apothecary as patrons can enjoy their drinks on the small fourth floor patio overlooking Sinan Mansions.

Apothecary. Bldg 2, 4/F, Sinan Mansions, Lane 507 Fuxing Zhong Lu (by Chongqing Lu), 复兴中路507弄2号4楼 (近重庆路), Shanghai, People's Republic of China.

Eating in Yogyakarta, Central Java, Indonesia

Yogyakarta is a hot spot in Java for foodies. Any traveler you come across will say, "There is great food in Yogyakarta." It is a cultural center in Java close to the ocean and has several historic sites as well as surrounding nature to enjoy, such as climbing the steep slopes of Mt. Merapi. As the city is so big, it attracts people from all over, contributing to the growing diversity of flavors in the city. The cuisine in Yogyakarta is characterized by a sweetness, similar to the characteristic flavor of Shanghai (also sweetness). Being in Indonesia, you can still get the fiery chili taste with any local dish. Just ask for it (or the omittance thereof).

Going for something on the healthy side, attempting to stray away from all that is fried (a difficult task), I was taken Warung Pecel Madiun for nasi pecel madiun. In English, I was told it is a "traditional Indonesian salad." It is not exactly salad in the traditional sense being served atop a serving of rice, but it was not considered a hot dish. Pecel is actually a classic Javanese peanut sauce commonly served with vegetables. It was poured atop raw spinach, sprouts, beans, a type of cucumber, and other leaves. On the side was a type of tempe cracker and salt-preserved, shredded meat. The nasi pecel madiun tasted very fresh and the selection of ingredients showcased this. The peanuts gave whole salad a more meaty taste. The pecel sauce also brought some spiciness to the salad, making it more exciting. It was difficult to get the perfect bite in with pecel, vegetable, rice, cracker, and that salted meat on one spoon. The meal as a whole is not heavy at all, even with all the rice. Needless to say, I felt a lot healthier after several meals that centered on something that was fried.

My companion was eager to show me how hot Indonesian food can get, claiming to only eat ayam penyet pedas once a month because it can wreak havoc on the digestive system. Here is to hoping I am not reminded of the meal the following day from something other than memory. Warung Sambal is another simple restaurant in the Yogyakarta area of Sleman. I was told initially that the famous dish is "chicken cooked with hot spices" and not "fried smashed chicken" as the translation implies. However, I was not expecting this. It was a thigh and leg piece of fried chicken, bone in, of course, first boiled with a spice mixture, coconut milk, and lemongrass before it is fried, ensuring that the chicken remains tender. Dark meat is appreciated for its flavor, enhanced further if the bone is in. Asians are more concerned with flavor - not health factor - preferring dark meat over white meat. I did not get the impression that the chicken was cooked with hot spices, but rather a paste dominated by green chili was spread over the fried chicken. Ayam penyet pedas is, indeed, incredibly spicy. You can make it even spicier by asking for sambal. Only the cucumber the chicken came with is able to save the mouth from spontaneously combusting due to the concentration of chili. The rice is only a small way to falsely dilute the scoville level from the chicken. It was really flavorful, though. My innards were screaming from the concentrated bites of heat that it was not used to.


Yogyakarta is most famous for gudeg, a curry made with young jackfruit and coconut milk with chicken. The sugars of the jackfruit give the gudeg its very sweet characteristic. We tried it at a roadside restaurant called Warung Kayu, popular for late-night eating. It is a simple wooden structure with all the food laid out in the middle and an old woman scooping up gudeg and ripping chicken bits onto your plate with her bare hands (slightly horrifying for the germaphobes out there). Whatever. You are in Indonesia, so this is something you have to get over. There goes the rice, the gudeg, slices of tempe, egg, and a big piece of chicken. Looking at the gudeg, it appears to be brown slop after taking in color from teak leaves, but do not let that deter you. It goes down nicely with the sweetened ice tea, which can be asked for unsweetened. The gudeg was really tasty and not as sweet as I originally imagined, most likely because the jackfruit was not completely ripe at its height of sweeetness. The combination of spices used in cooking while the coconut milk boiled down to almost nothing gave the gudeg extra depth appealing to other taste palates. The chicken was also very tender and moist taking in the flavor of the curry. After a taste, you understand why gudeg is very much associated with its mother city of Yogyakarta.

Waroeng Pecel Madiun. Moh. Kahfi II No. 40 A, Jakarta Selatan, DKI Jakarta, Indonesia.