New Year's Eve Tasting Menu at Madison

If you were in any city aside from Shanghai during Christmas, it is highly doubtful you would even know Christmas was near if not for the calendar and colder weather. Trying to make the best of something celebrated elsewhere in a country not accustomed to recognizing it makes it a challenge. Why not then go balls to the walls with a fancy meal to celebrate a Western religious and cultural holiday tradition? Out of all the restaurants in Shanghai, Madison has left the greatest impression (though Avalon might have been up there if Hilary Ambrose did not leave), so why not try a holiday meal there? Austin Hu told us what he had in the works in early December, something slightly closer to home sounded great. There were two menus to choose from between 8 courses and 5 being set at 688RMB and 388RMB respectively. The set menu for each was about the same, but with the smaller 5-course dinner, out went the Smoked Trout - Housemade Trout Caviar, Pickled Water Celery, Chestnut Chips, Foie Gras Ravioli - Braised Goose Leg, Cranberry Compote, Hazelnut Crumble, and Yogurt Panna Cotta - Plum Compote, Prosecco. As much as the 8-courses tempted the stomach, the wallet (and waist line) was not having it.

I would also like to say as much as I am opposed to taking photos with flash in a dining room, the camera being used was not up to par for the task so concessions were made. Hence, the hodgepodge of flash and no-flash shots.

First off was the Warm Cauliflower Flan with Chinese Caviar served in a shot glass and a little metal spoon (note this is not a "mother-of-pearl" spoon to avoid giving the caviar a metallic tinge, but this should not be something to complain about given the circumstances). The origins of the caviar was not made clear aside from the indication that it is "Chinese," but not even the sort of fish it was harvested from was known. The flan was light and delicately sweet, hinting only of cauliflower. The caviar was delightfully salty, slightly acidic, and bitter, cutting into each creamy, warm bite of eggy flan in a way that will widen the horizon of the palate.

Next we were served the cured kampachi with hawthorne jelly and decorated with purple gynura leaves. As soon as the dish is set down, truffle aromas permeate the air. It was similar to the cured fish from Goga (Brad Turley's restaurant in Shanghai). It was not a heavy dish being cool and not over-seasoned to emphasize the cured kampachi and also anticipating the other courses to come in the meal. The Hawthorne jelly gave it a slightly sweet taste, bringing out the fresh sweetness of the fish.


Prawns had a saffron-vanilla sauce and rested on Chinese watercress. It was only one moderately sized prawn, which made you wish there were two instead of one. Following the cured kampachi, the saffron-vanilla sauce continued the slightly sweet savory palate. Perhaps this sweetness permeating the entire menu is an ode to the fact that the restaurant is in Shanghai and also is celebrating the Shanghainese sweet-tooth. Cutting into the prawn, watercress, and other roasted vegetables in the dish, I carefully put each equal-sized piece on my fork with a swirl in the saffron-vanilla sauce to get the perfect bite.

A traditional American Christmas meal is not complete without the holiday goose. However, Austin Hu did not present the table with an entire goose, but rather a sliced pan-roasted goose breast with sunchoke puree, braised treviso, and truffle vinaigrette. The goose tasted game-like and rich, warming the senses as well as filling the stomach. Using goose instead of other fowl made this course taste more decadent only for its more rare use in Shanghai and everyday meals because of its rich flavor and fattiness.

Before the dessert course, there was a long break. The server asked if we would like coffee or tea to accompany our dessert or act as a digestif.

The dessert was a peanut butter chocolate opera cake with raspberry ice cream. The raspberry ice cream was more a sorbet than ice cream for the clear lack of silky dairy texture. The cake served at room temperature was not undercooked or too dry. The tartness of the raspberry balanced the richness of the chocolate.

Compared to the other courses in the meal, the cake was relatively large and you would almost say the portion was generous. If your stomach was not full from the small tastings, the peanut butter chocolate opera cake will definitely fill any voids left. A fellow diner had stated before the meal that everything was delicious, but so small. After consuming the incredibly rich cake, that same diner was decidedly full almost as if to say that the cake served the same function as rice at the end of a meal.

The Christmas Eve meal was thoroughly enjoyable. Eaten in small bites, the entire meal could be found as filling as the diner is meant to relish in the flavors and not find gluttonous satisfaction in a large volume of food. As a pillar of American fine dining in Shanghai, I would have hoped for more takes on classic American Christmas dishes than bringing in the fusion of Chinese culture. Though, being in Shanghai, the menu represented the finer touches of each.

Ethics of Foie Gras

I just read this fascinating article on Serious Eats by J. Kenji Lopez-Alt on "The Physiology of Foie: Why Foie Gras is Not Unethical." For those skeptical to the idea of force feeding, a friend's impression of a Moulard duck during the gavage process struggling and shaking its throat did not help. A visit to a La Belle Farms in Hudson Valley cleared up a lot of hearsay and answered questions. At this farm, the ducks were found to look healthy and live comfortably. A lot of emphasis was placed on how humans must avoid anthropomorphizing the animals as the physiology of the animal may differ greatly from that of a human. One should also take into consideration the origin and the process of animal products when making purchases to support a good farm instead of a bad one or making generalized judgements based on the worst. Take some positive steps in consumer behavior to encourage change in standards. I was quite taken by this article and found it fascinating as a person appreciative of foie gras and curious about the process of producing a high-quality product. This is definitely worth a read and consideration.

Speaking of foie gras, does anyone know where one can find a whole, prepared lobe of foie gras in Shanghai for retail sale?

Madison Brunch - A Locavore Delight

Brunch is a weekend institution. It is not breakfast and it is not lunch. It is a way to spend time free of work responsibility and sharing conversation with friends over a comforting meal. Brunches are best when lazy requiring no set beginning or end, though dimming light is an indicator that perhaps Sunday dinner should have already started. In Shanghai, brunch tends to span between the hours of 11:00 to 15:00 accommodating the late-risers, church-goers, and everyone else in between needing midday nourishment. The options in Shanghai are endless, with the hotel brunches pushing their more expensive buffets in every free expat magazine. The majority of other brunch options involve a set meal with 2-3 courses, coffee or tea, and a pastry. Seeing the menu at Madison, everyone who had not brunched there before was surprised to see that there was no set meal option on the menu. With a decent-sized group ordering a myriad of items off the menu, the cost per person was actually less than the set menus of popular brunch spots, like Azul, which is right downstairs. You would expect the complete opposite when ordering a la carte!

All the egg options had a great twist to them, though we neglected to try the deviled eggs. My indifference to the choice probably came from the fact that I know of university students who have made their own in their dining halls. The scotch eggs were completely devoted to duck. The duck eggs were encased in duck sausage and had a healthy dollop of whole-grain mustard and rocket on top. It was cut into quarters, which made it easy to share. The scrambled eggs were a favorite. The eggs were not dry nor runny with all sorts of mushrooms and served on top of a puff pastry round. Immediately when the server puts the plate down, you need to attack as the pastry would go soft from the wet egg on top. There was also a hint of truffle oil in the scrambled eggs. The eggs Benedict came out with a healthy serving of hollandaise sauce over pig trotters and muffin. The shredded pig trotters were compacted into a flat disk that flaked apart nicely when cutting into the egg and the bread it sat upon. The hollandaise sauce was thick and not too acidic, complimenting the pig trotter.


Other highlights on the menu included the incredibly creamy Chili Biscuits, house-cured pancetta, potato pancakes with sweet house-made catsup, and the breads (chocolate bun and cinnamon bun). One good thing about the rolls were that the buns were cooked all the way through and you were not left with a doughy mess on the inside. Not so impressive were the beignets, which were more fried donut holes than the pillows of dough doused with powdered sugar from Cafe Du Monde an American commonly associates with the word "beignet." Being an American fine dining establishment, a refined take on the classic donut with chocolate, berry, and cinnamon dips could be forgiven, but to call it a beignet is something I do not agree with. The French toast with yogurt and berry was good, but not an outstanding point on the brunch menu. To top off an already slightly sweet meal, we recieved a s'mores and pb&j trifle. The s'mores trifle had bits of chocolate cake, thick marshmallow creme, chocolate pudding, and a giant graham cracker cookie stick. The pb&j trifle had their wonderfully creamy and rich peanut ice cream, berry, and creme with toast sticks as garnish to complete the "sandwich concept." Sprinkled on top of both were what seemed to be crushed pistachios with a sort of medium-ball sugaring.




The brunch at Madison is really good, especially for the quality you get for the price. Taking into consideration the locavore trend in Shanghai is barely beginning, it is nice to see Austin Hu leading the pack. Madison is by far the best brunch in Shanghai when it comes to an American standard.

Madison. 3/F, 18 Dongping Lu, near Hengshan Lu. 东平路18号, 近衡山路. Shanghai, People's Republic of China.

The Alchemist: Feeling Like a Stumped Scientist

Before its grand opening, I went with a couple of friends to check out Kelley Lee's newest venture, The Alchemist, which is focused on creations exploring the bounds of molecular gastronomy. Outside the kitchen, all the creations are overseen by Ryan Noreiks, from Brisbane, Australia. The atmosphere is swanky, cozy, and not so loud making it ideal for after-work drinks, conversation, or a date. The chandelier created out of spoons is a unique touch and gesture to experimentation.

The Hong was the first drink I ordered made of Tanqueray gin, quinquina dubonnet, rhubarb bitters, and grapefruit air. It came out in an elegant bowl-like vessel and a large atomizer (think giant perfume bottle) accompanied it. The server spritzed the drink with this "grapefruit air" before disappearing. The presentation was impressive and fun. It was a lovely take on a bramble and not so overpriced for a molecular cocktail. I also enjoyed the Dark Mystic, which tasted like a Christmas explosion from the chocolate and warm, spiced bite. However, when the Yangtze River cocktail came out, we immediately became confused. The table was also expecting a foie gras order with the knowledge that its presentation may be deceiving. With all the vials, vessels, cups, and bowls that the drinks were being served in, without experience you are unsure of what to expect. The Yangtze River take on a Long Island Iced Tea came out in two parts: 1 cup of alcoholic sorbet and an espresso cup of tea. We stared at it for a while wondering if the foie gras was hiding under a pear compote. Only until Kelley Lee came out we realized that it was not a foie gras concoction, but the cocktail. Oops. Only later did the foie gras plate come out and the sugared bits glittering on the plate were the candied bacon. Another issue arose when the fish tartar was presented with a large vial of gaseous liquid. Were we supposed to pour the whole bottle over the raw fish? Only when Kelley Lee came out again was it explained that the dry ice in the chardonnay made a gas to "perfume the dish." Without instruction, we could have ignorantly destroyed the dish. The transition from presentation to consumption could be eased if only the servers were better trained at this point to explain how everything is consumed immediately upon arrival to the table.

The experience at The Alchemist was fun, interactive, and highly entertaining. As a patron, you feel more involved with the food and drinks wondering what it is and how they did it. It is a place that food enthusiasts will enjoy and a place to impress your friends.


The Alchemist. Sinan Mansions, Block 32, 45 Sinan Lu, near Fuxing Zhong Lu 思南路45号32号楼，近复兴西路. Shanghai, China