Cucina Urbana

After passing on Laurel Restaurant for its high-priced menu, Cucina Urbana popped up giving those in the down economy a light with its reasonably priced rustic Italian dishes with a Californian touch. Rave reviews and word of mouth contributed to the popularity of the restaurant. Calling in Tuesday morning for reservations that evening, tables were already booked out aside from early and late dinner times. Seeing the packed dining room and bar, there was no way you could get a seating without a reservation.

The wait staff was very personable, friendly, and welcoming even though we were late arrivals and walk-ins were vying for our table. They invite diners to visit their wine retail store / "private" dining room as they only charge US$7.00 corkage fee for bottles purchased at retail. Excellent! The wine selection and menu placed a heavy emphasis on hot catch words like "organic," "local," and "sustainable." The food menu also featured daily specials for those looking for dining deals. The concept of the establishment was well-thought out. Diners help their tummies, their banks accounts, and the world.


The two starters we ordered were the barbecue octopus with salted fingerling potato, endive, radish, chili herb vinaigrette and lemon aioli ($11.00) and stuffed squash blossoms (herb ricotta) with purple basil pesto and cured lemon dressing ($9.50). The barbecue octopus was incredibly tender and not tough at all, especially after expecting a texture somewhat similar to tako from previous octopus experiences. It was meaty, yet very light and had a light smokey flavor from the charring. The salad also had a bit of baby octopus or some other cephalopod, which was a little bit chewier. The endives gave a nice crunch to the otherwise softer textures on the plate. The stuffed blossoms were amazing and light, not over-breaded. The pesto served as a savory compliment to the the saltiness from the ricotta and tang from the lemon dressing. The stuffed blossoms really hit the spot.


Each main course was selected one from each area of the menu: pasta, piatti, and pizza. The crab ravioli seemed promising, but fell flat when it came to the actual crab filling. The crab was a little bit dry and could have benefitted from using chunks instead of whatever was centrifuged from the shells. However, the buttery sauce and cheese in the filling did not overwhelm the crab flavors allowing the crab to be the star of the dish. The tower of thickly sliced aubergine in the eggplant 'parmigiana' with gigante bean and escarole salad and shaved grana ($15.50) was easy to cut into. The eggplant was not bitter had a thick, breaded, crispy crust and layered with fine slices of mozzarella complimented with a light sauce using fresh and flavorful tomatoes. The fig and gorgonzola pizza with caramelized onion, candied pecan, arugula, and aged balsamic ($14.00) had a lovely, charred crust. The toppings were mostly hidden by the forest of arugula, but the peppery green did not overwhelm the entire pizza. Each bite was a surprise of sweet and savory from the ripe, deep-colored figs and the bite of the sweet balsamic acid. This combination was particularly pleasant for warmer summer days.

Dessert came out and we shared the bittersweet chocolate bundino ($8.00). The chocolate was incredibly rich and you can taste the higher percentage of cacao. The chocolate was creamy and smooth. Two small bites were almost too much, but chocoholics would definitely love this dessert. The espresso ($3.50) rounded off the meal nicely.

Looking around at the end of the early dinner, the dining room and bar were seated primarily by women sipping summer whites and roses and sharing antipasti plates. The occasional male present was claimed by a female counterpart by the looks of the suggestive body language. Regardless, Cucina Urbana definitely has the food and ambiance at a great price to make this a regular spot.

Cucina Urbana. 505 West Laurel Street San Diego, CA 92101-1634, United States. +1.619.239.2222. Open Tue-Thu 5pm-10pm; Fri-Sat 5pm-12am; Sun 5pm-9pm. www.cucinaurbana.com

Cafe Chloe

I actually came to Cafe Chloe several years ago when it first opened and the East Village was being gentrified as a hipper, more local alternative to the Gaslamp. A friend and I came late for a dessert of creme brulee and a bottle of sparkling wine to once again celebrate the fact that neither of us had money to spend. Flash-forward a few years later. The Chowhound boards are buzzing with recommendations for Cafe Chloe and the small wine bar established itself as a dining destination in San Diego.


On a Monday evening, the small restaurant was able to accommodate a party of three outside, though smashed around a tiny table. The "larger" tables inside were not that much bigger. With nice weather, it is nicer to sit outside anyway. The restaurant does not take reservations for smaller parties. Promptly seated, the server immediately asks what we would like to drink and even offers a small sampling of a few wines to accompany the meal. This detail of service is amazing because we got to choose a wine that suited our palates. Ended up going with a medium-bodied red to match the variety of dishes we selected created by chef Katie Grebow.


We shared the starter of the corn and smoked mozzarella tart with pickled shallot ($8.75), which was then cut into thirds for sharing. The corn added a sweet taste to the meatiness of the smoked mozzarella. Its summery taste matched the ambiance and was a good start for the dinner.


After some time as each dish is made to order, the entrees eventually came out. The local white sea bass with ragout of summer vegetables, herb salad, espellette pepper sauce, grilled ciabatta ($23.00) was lightly overcooked as we saw it sitting under the heat lamp waiting for the other dishes to finish preparation. The sea bass had a thick crust, but the fish inside was not light and flaky, but rather dry. The fish should have been prepared last out of the other dishes. Ordering the steak & frites with roquefort, onion marmalade, and sautéed spinach and wild mushroom ($21.75) also meant that Cafe Chloe will donate $1.00 to the S.D Food Bank's Food for Kids' Backpack Program, at least during the month of August. The steak was more on the rare side than the requested medium-rare, but was still succulent with the generous chunks of roquefort. The frites were also well-executed and added a new texture in between bites of steak. Also on the side were the spinach and a variety of tender wild mushrooms. The plat du jour: choucroute garnie- fresh cherries & brandy pork sausage, brined pork loin, spiced pork belly, sauerkraut and butterball potatoes ($23.00) showcased pork in one of its several forms. The pork belly tasted more buttery than spiced - so lusious. Pale in comparison were the sausage, still rich and slightly sweet, and the loin. Full from the dinner, we passed on the dessert.

The foodie mill was right to recommend Cafe Chloe as a great place to dine, but the experience was not as mind-blowing as the hype led it up to be. That was slightly disappointing because I expected each bite to provoke wide-eyed amazement and wonder of the food. Maybe my taste buds have been spoilt by too much foie gras imported from the southwest region of France.

Cafe Chloe. 721 9th Avenue, San Diego, CA 92101-6481, United States. (619) 232-3242. Open Weekdays 7:30am-10:30pm; Sat 8:30am-10:30pm; Sun 7:30am-9:30pm. www.cafechloe.com

Cabbie Pit Stop at 春和面馆

Approaching the entrance of the large kitchen + seating area = restaurant, a Shanghai cabbie loudly clears his throat and spits on the already filthy stairs stairs. Another is washing his face at the outdoor sink. By the entrance, another taxi driver fills his thermos with hot water for his tea. The place is crammed with middle-aged men in dark pants, belt, and button-up short-sleeved shirts smoking and inhaling large bowls of soup, noodles, or rice maybe with a few early bottles of Suntory or waiting for a table to do so. Chun He Mian Guan is a taxi driver lunch haven.


Meeting a few friends for lunch, the ladies taking orders at the counter as well as other drivers whisper, "Laowai! Laowai!" to one another pointing out those who are dining. I order the hong shou rou mian at 11RMB, which is a large bowl of soup with noodles and pork steeped in a soy sauce-based sauce. After ordering, you bring the ticket to the hot kitchen where one woman ladels the soup and noodles in a bowl, the other tops it off with greens and meat, and another shoves it in front of you. The method is quite efficient, but only if you manage to force your way to the front and push your order in the server's hands. No real queues to wait in here.


The bowl is large and heavy with noodles cooked to perfection and a generous amount of thickly cut tender and flavorful meat. The broth emits a strong cumin flavor intermixed with coriander leaf. The broth is spicy and flavorful, though slightly sweet, a signature feature of the Shanghainese palate. The broth and taste of the niu rou mian (beef noodle soup) is light in comparison to this one. Already big, the meal is heavy on the stomach. Seeing as each bowl of the hong shou rou mian is 11RMB, the taxi drivers know where good value and tasty meals are at.


Apparently, Chun He Mian Guan is open 24-hours a day so the drivers can get properly fed according to their shifts. Dining is not fancy, but to the point. You are fed well and well-fed. This calls for finding more taxi driver dives in Shanghai.

Chun He Mian Guan (春和面馆). 1081 Changde Lu, near Anyuan Lu 常德路1081号, 近安远路, no phone number, open 24-hours

Dessert at Madison for Qixi 七夕 Festival

Wholly owned by Austin Hu (who trained at New York's Gramercy Tavern), Madison is one of the latest additions to the fine dining scene in Shanghai. Qixi Festival or "Chinese Valentine's Day" offered a great reason to go out and indulge in a sweet extravagance.

The restaurant was empty for a Monday night around 22:00, but the purpose of the visit was dessert, not a meal. The kitchen closes at 23:00, though they will make concessions if you advise them on time. The room was dimly lit, simple and classy. At the larger tables, there was a thoughful space created in the table for the server so that each dish can easily be hand-placed in front of the diner.


The apple tart fine with goat cheese ice cream and brandy caramel at 60RMB jumped out from the menu. Goat cheese ice cream is an intriguing way to capture the tart sweetness from goat cheese. It did have a sort of gritty texture to it from the goat cheese and the method to make it silky and velvety-smooth is still being refined. The puff pastry used for the apple tart is made in-house although using imported French butter. At the moment, few necessities cannot be compromised and quality butter is one of them. Austin told us that he may switch to Irish butter soon, at least until a suitable China-sourced replacement is found. Anyway, the goat cheese ice cream was melting away on the warm, thin, tart fine. Breaking into the dessert with a spoon, the pastry gives a satisfying crackle. Covered with the caramel sauce, the brandy compliments the apple and goat cheese ice cream well. I would have preferred the brandy caramel to be thicker to match the weight of the puff pastry and goat cheese ice cream.


The server informed us there are 15 different flavors of ice cream all made in-house at 20RMB per scoop. One of them included a Baileys flavor, which was smooth, creamy, and rich, just like the drink. It was adorned with a thin brittle giving a contrast to the smooth ice cream.


The head and humidity of Shanghai summers is offset by this light dessert. The meringue is perfectly cooked through and crispy the whole way through, melting on the tongue against the mulberry sauce and citrus sorbet. Wonderfully light and delicately sweet.


Pairing together the nut ice cream and berry sorbet, your taste buds are transported back to the nostalgia of a good peanut butter and jelly sandwich. The nut ice cream is incredibly creamy and thick, almost like smooth peanut butter, and not artificially sweet. It is so rich and dense, you can hardly believe that this is ice cream. The berry sorbet is dark, fresh, and flavorful to match the richness of the nut ice cream.


After paying the bill, we were offered complimentary cashew brittle cookies with bits of melted toffee. This had to be saved for later, unless gluttony (in the best sense) became overwhelming.

Austin Hu came to the table to see how we liked the dessert and simply talk to us. Hearing his approach to the direction of his restaurant shows that he is looking at fine dining past what he is able to produce on the table. Already, it is impressive that everything is produced in-house, including the lardo he is starting to prepare, as well as focusing on these high-quality ingredients being fresh. More impressive is his goal to source high-quality products locally, at least within China, and extend that to every single part of his restaurant. He sets out to build relationships with the source, a trust that will ensure the consistent quality of the food. Sourcing locally is a trend already with lots of steam in the West and it is nice to see the same attitude displayed in China. New Shanghai chefs tend to be more liberal with sharing their source list, showing that the dining scene is escalating to feature the unique talents of each chef although maybe using the same product as another.

The desserts were amazing. hoF may be the front-runner in most people's minds for chocolate cake and decadance (while still minding a budget), but for the next step in quality and thoughtfulness, the desserts at Madison is where it is at. Looking forward to what else Austin Hu has planned for his menu.

Madison. 3/F, 18 Dongping Lu, near Hengshan Lu, 东平路18号, 近衡山路, Shanghai, People's Republic of China

Xiao Long Bao at Din Tai Fung

With all the raving about the xiao long bao at Din Tai Fung, it was time to give in to their extraordinary prices to see what all the hype of their xiao long bao with 18 folds is about. Din Tai Fung is a Taiwanese chain and compared to Taiwan, the restaurants in China are upscale and more service-oriented. There was a huge emphasis on presentation as well. Large bamboo steamers are ushered out and the lid is taken off upon arrival with the lids being placed back on the tray to go back to the xiao long bao stuffing room.

The menu displayed a few variations on the xiao long bao. After getting our fresh watermelon juice, we made a selection of four varieties to sample. Each of the steamers were lined with a sort of little cloth tea towel to prevent the dumpling skin from sticking to the bamboo and breaking, releasing all of its precious soup. Finely sliced ginger was served in a little tower to add to the dipping vinegar to taste.


First sampled was the chicken xiao long bao. They were not as pretty as the pork xiao long bao, which arrived at the same time. Usually, when I eat my xiao long bao, I prefer to bite the top off and suck the soup out before consuming the rest of the dumpling. The soup did carry a strong chicken flavor and the dumpling alone was just a ball of ordinary chicken. The chicken xiao long bao seemed better suited for eating whole to allow the chicken broth to burst in your mouth.


The pork xiao long bao was absolutely gorgeous with is delicate 18 folds. The wrapper is super thin and translucent enough that you can see the soup floating inside. The broth tasted very much like pork without the extra salty flavor that you would find from other cheap canteens in Shanghai. The filling was also luscious and meaty.


As mentioned before, the crab xiao long bao was avoided until later in the meal as one holds off on sipping a bold red before going back to a light white wine. The crab filling was not as impressive as the one from Jia Jia Tang Bao, but the Shanghainese hairy crab is also not so much in season. It lacked the abundance of roe and the meat tasted slightly gritty (also characteristic of the Shanghai hairy crab), almost to the point that one would believe there were small pieces of soft shell in it. However, there was no shell as there was no definite crunch, but the texture was a bit more rough rolling around in your mouth.


To round off the xiao long bao sampler, at 78 RMB for a steamer is the black truffle variety. In this case, the black truffle and pork was sampled. As "truffle" is a version of "mushroom," this dumpling seemed to be more "mushroom" than "truffle." The broth was savory and meaty with an added layer of complexity from the mushroom. Upon closer inspection, it appeared that the truffle was layered on top of the pork filling instead of integrated together as a consistent filling, as were its preceding counterparts. Perhaps during the steaming process, the truffle flavor was able to permeate the soup emitted from the pork filling. The black truffle and pork xiao long bao is a fresh variation on the original.


Since the brunch was entirely based on xiao long bao, vegetables were ordered to balance out the meat-loaded part of the meal. Nothing too outstanding, but did give a better nutrition value to the brunch. The spicy wonton dumplings also ordered were a bit too sweet, probably better suited for Shanghainese rather than Taiwanese tastes.


To top off the meal were the peach red bean paste buns. The outside of the steamed buns looked like a white peach with a blush of pink, but tasted nothing like a peach. The bun was flavorless and was only a vessel for the smooth and subtly sweet red bean paste inside.

The experience at Din Tai Fung was highly enjoyable and the service was so impeccable a patron would feel that for once they were given proper care at a restaurant. The servers were eager to help when asked and stayed out of the way as much as possible. At the end of the meal, we were asked to fill out a suggestion card and the server wanted to know precisely what could be improved to better the food in an extremely interested and polite way.

The xiao long bao at Din Tai Fung was very good, but it was hard to order knowing that you are paying around 15rmb per xiao long bao when you can find it cheaper. If it is a battle between Jia Jia Tang Bao and Din Tai Fung, Jia Jia Tang Bao is more for your money as you rub elbows with local Chinese waiting in line.

Din Tai Fung. 1/F, Shanghai Center, 1376 Nanjing Xi Lu, near Xikang Lu 南京西路1376号上海商城1楼, 近西康路. Shanghai, People's Republic of China (other locations in Shanghai / worldwide). www.dintaifung.com.tw/en/

Munchies, But Not After 22:00

One of the greatest luxuries and conveniences of Shanghai is that you can get practically anything delivered to your door. Along with furniture, plane tickets, and water, this includes food. When you get cravings for something salty and bad for you, what better place to call than Munchies?

Munchies puts more emphasis on its food delivery service than its in-house service, as this Shanghai expat and several others have come to know. Usually, deliveries are made within 30 minutes of ordering, unless it happens to be raining. The entire menu is posted on its homepage featuring American classics like burgers, hot dogs, chili, and sandwiches along with south-of-the-border favorites of quesadillas, burritos, enchiladas and tacos. They also deliver beer, milkshakes, and smoothies. The best thing is - compared to the rest of the American food in Shanghai - everything is cheaply priced (for Western food in Shanghai at least). Amazing!


The hamburgers are constructed well with the beef patty proportional to the size and thickness of its bun. Even after the delivery ride, the bun was not the least bit soggy. The Munchies Cheeseburger is 34RMB and comes with a side (crinkle-cut fries are most requested).


The quesadilla looks as good as it tastes, although it definitely could use more cheese to hold the entire thing together. The vegetables kept falling out during consumption. I swear they used to put more cheese in the quesadillas before. It comes with a little fresh salsa and sour cream. The other "south of the border" menu items are generous in size including the burrito and the even larger Pedro's Feast of three bursting enchiladas. All that is missing is that salsa verde.

The smoothies are pretty tasty as well. They are thick and not weighed down with filler ice or liquid, bringing even more value to the order.

Not for the dieting or health conscious, Munchies can manage to satisfy your salty cravings. They offers free delivery within 1km (or pay 5RMB). During prime hours like weekday lunch, the wait could be longer than 30 minutes, but it is 30 minutes well worth it. If only Munchies was available for order 24/7, especially on weekend nights, when the real late-night munchies kick in full force.

Munchies. 974 Wuding Lu (by Changde Lu), Jing'An District, Shanghai, People's Republic of China. http://www.munchies.cn/

The First Taste of Bulgarian in China

There are not that many Bulgarians in Shanghai. Neither are there many Chinese in Bulgaria. Bulgarian cuisine is savory, filling, and warming, keeping you cozy through cold winters. The first Bulgarian gastronomic experience should be of no comparison to its next major attempt half-way around the world, but one can still hope.

Vitosha, "the first Bulgarian restaurant in China" opened less than a month ago in the quaint lanes of Taikang Lu. A Bulgarian friend was thrilled by the idea of it, missing home comforts and wanting to show others the best that Bulgaria has to offer. This venture would be continued for Hungarian cuisine, but the Hungarian restaurant in Shanghai has closed. Our palates were itching for the salty, tart, sweet, and cool flavors of a nice shopska salad.

The party of 10 was ushered upstairs where two long tables sat (there was another party of 10 on the second floor). Traditional Bulgarian patterned table cloth and placemats adorned the table and were accented with old world clay vessels holding oil, vinegar, salt, and pepper. The paintings on the wall depicted "typical" Bulgarian winter scenes, but looked like the paintings could have been purchased at kitsch art stores in Minnesota. One of the owners / managers gave us the menu with limited selection that - like most restaurants in Tianzifang - give you major sticker shock. Meat dishes were at least 78rmb going to the 150rmb range for meat plates. Bottles of wine (not Bulgarian) were at least 300rmb. The dishes were not meant for sharing as everyone is expected to eat their own. For prices this high, expectations are that the meal will be good, especially the cheese part! Only a few were able to benefit from the 2-for-1 Carlsberg beer special that evening (available during limited hours). Where's the Bulgarian beer on this menu?


The shopska salad (25rmb) and breaded cheese (40rmb) were the cold and hot starters. The shopska salad had a generous grating of cheese and were in proportion to the tomato, red onion, and cucumber topped off with a single Greek olive. It would be difficult to mess up this classic salad, but its worth could have been improved using high-quality, flavorful vegetables. You just got to wonder where their vegetables are locally sourced from. The breaded cheese was fair, but the breading had no flavor and did not provide a savory shell for the cheese inside. If did, however, go well with the Bulgarian relish, which tasted like roasted red pepper marinara sauce.


Considering the price of each dish was so high, it was in the interest of the group to order less and share what could be managed. The veal and mushroom in gravy (more like a broth) with an egg on top "tasted like pizza," most likely from the use of oregano. The veal was slightly chewy, but the gravy was good for dipping bread in. It is not a very typical Bulgarian dish according to the lone Bulgarian at the table. The chicken in a tomato base with an egg on top served in a clay pot was tender and moist, though small. The pork kebapche was a little on the dry side and the accompanying fries matched its lack of thrill. There was a small dollop of relish on the side to flavor the kebapche with. No one took the rakia at 35rmb per serving to finish the meal with.

The man appearing to run the show at the restaurant looked typically Bulgarian with his greased hair and fitted, fake Dolce and Gabanna t-shirt. His attitude was welcoming, excited, and curious about the first customers the restaurant attracted. Vitosha still may be in its soft opening phase, since they did not have the meat-stuffed peppers or other dishes the Bulgarian asked for. Although only 7 in the party of 10 really ate, the bill was hitting 900rmb and the majority of the group was still hungry. Being the first commercial Bulgarian restaurant in China, the representation was not impressive. Well, we had to try it at least once.

Vitosha. 8 Taikang Lu 248 Nong, 泰康路248弄8号, Shanghai, People's Republic of China. www.vitoshanghai.com

Jishi or Jesse

The original Jesse. Not New Jesse. Just Jishi (the sign outside says Jesse) or "Old Jesse." The small restaurant split on two low-ceiling levels is famous for its Shanghainese food. After reading so much about it, I finally was able to make reservations at the original location. There were two seatings and we opted for the later one at 19:30. Upon arrival, we were asked to wait a moment before our party of four was crammed into a corner table on the second floor surrounded by tables holding larger parties.

The menu has a poor English translation and could use a pinyin one as well, which could help food travelers pick out the dishes that they hear about. Regardless, the server is able to recommend popular Shanghainese dishes, most of which sat on every table in the restaurant.

The first cold starter was mixed mushrooms and shredded tofu. The tofu had a wonderful, almost meaty texture and hid the the mushrooms hiding underneath in a bath of vinegar and light oil. The dish was light and very satisfying.


This was followed by cold chicken, which was extremely tender and moist, maintaining a subtle, although not bland flavor.


Then came the dates with glutinous rice. This is classically Shanghainese being subtley sweet, yet savory. It was a sweet contrast to the cold chicken and more salty shredded tofu.


The best part of the meal was the Hong Shou Rou or red-braised pork belly. The sauce was thick and sweet with mild caramelization. This is Mao's favorite dish and tasting it, you know why. Bowls of rice where ordered to soak up the sweet and savory sauce the pork meat was stewing in. This is the one of the best hongshourou dishes I have tried, especially since the sauce was thick and dark as well as not being so oily as other versions.


It seemed like the same sauce was used in the Jishi fish, which was charged for per jin or 500 grams. The fish was not overcooked, still tender and moist. The disappointing factor was that the sauce was too similar to that of the hongshourou, which would have otherwise expanded the flavor palette of the night.


The meal was rounded off with some basic stir-fried greens, which were not as exciting nor common as the watercress. Unfortunately for the small table of non-native speakers, the proper name was not remembered at the time of ordering. We also missed out on the river shrimp. But there will always be a next time.

To be honest, I am not sure if they add MSG to the dishes, which most restaurants in China do, but each bite was totally addictive and you cannot help but serve yourself one more small bite. Old Jesse was absolutely amazing, especially if you want a Shanghainese gastronomic experience. It is not the fanciest sit-down restaurant, but the original Jesse is dependable for excellent, affordable Shanghainese food.

Jesse Restaurant. 41 Tianping Road (Middle Huaihai Road) 天平路41号 (近淮海中路), Shanghai, People's Republic of China..