Vitosha, "the first Bulgarian restaurant in China" opened less than a month ago in the quaint lanes of Taikang Lu. A Bulgarian friend was thrilled by the idea of it, missing home comforts and wanting to show others the best that Bulgaria has to offer. This venture would be continued for Hungarian cuisine, but the Hungarian restaurant in Shanghai has closed. Our palates were itching for the salty, tart, sweet, and cool flavors of a nice shopska salad.
The party of 10 was ushered upstairs where two long tables sat (there was another party of 10 on the second floor). Traditional Bulgarian patterned table cloth and placemats adorned the table and were accented with old world clay vessels holding oil, vinegar, salt, and pepper. The paintings on the wall depicted "typical" Bulgarian winter scenes, but looked like the paintings could have been purchased at kitsch art stores in Minnesota. One of the owners / managers gave us the menu with limited selection that - like most restaurants in Tianzifang - give you major sticker shock. Meat dishes were at least 78rmb going to the 150rmb range for meat plates. Bottles of wine (not Bulgarian) were at least 300rmb. The dishes were not meant for sharing as everyone is expected to eat their own. For prices this high, expectations are that the meal will be good, especially the cheese part! Only a few were able to benefit from the 2-for-1 Carlsberg beer special that evening (available during limited hours). Where's the Bulgarian beer on this menu?
The shopska salad (25rmb) and breaded cheese (40rmb) were the cold and hot starters. The shopska salad had a generous grating of cheese and were in proportion to the tomato, red onion, and cucumber topped off with a single Greek olive. It would be difficult to mess up this classic salad, but its worth could have been improved using high-quality, flavorful vegetables. You just got to wonder where their vegetables are locally sourced from. The breaded cheese was fair, but the breading had no flavor and did not provide a savory shell for the cheese inside. If did, however, go well with the Bulgarian relish, which tasted like roasted red pepper marinara sauce.
Considering the price of each dish was so high, it was in the interest of the group to order less and share what could be managed. The veal and mushroom in gravy (more like a broth) with an egg on top "tasted like pizza," most likely from the use of oregano. The veal was slightly chewy, but the gravy was good for dipping bread in. It is not a very typical Bulgarian dish according to the lone Bulgarian at the table. The chicken in a tomato base with an egg on top served in a clay pot was tender and moist, though small. The pork kebapche was a little on the dry side and the accompanying fries matched its lack of thrill. There was a small dollop of relish on the side to flavor the kebapche with. No one took the rakia at 35rmb per serving to finish the meal with.
The man appearing to run the show at the restaurant looked typically Bulgarian with his greased hair and fitted, fake Dolce and Gabanna t-shirt. His attitude was welcoming, excited, and curious about the first customers the restaurant attracted. Vitosha still may be in its soft opening phase, since they did not have the meat-stuffed peppers or other dishes the Bulgarian asked for. Although only 7 in the party of 10 really ate, the bill was hitting 900rmb and the majority of the group was still hungry. Being the first commercial Bulgarian restaurant in China, the representation was not impressive. Well, we had to try it at least once.
Vitosha. 8 Taikang Lu 248 Nong, 泰康路248弄8号, Shanghai, People's Republic of China. www.vitoshanghai.com
