Showing posts with label Barbecue. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Barbecue. Show all posts

Saturday, July 2, 2011

glo London Shanghai Gastro Grill

After spending some time in London and appreciating its gastropub culture, I was curious to see what glo London would bring to China with its ambitious plans of a bakery cafe, gastro grill, lounge bar, rooftop barbecue, and pizza delivery all under one roof. I managed to get in on an invite to sample the food from the gastro grill before the soft opening (Shanghai loves soft openings). The tables were barely arranged and the bakery cafe on the first floor was still being put together. glo London was barely open and being so new, there should be some understanding that the wait staff may still need a little extra training and the kitchen is still working out a few kinks.

glo London Satay Chicken
glo London chargrilled lemon honey tiger prawns glo London duck samosas
glo London crab croquettes glo London calamari

The starters had the most international flair out of all the sections on the menu. However, its size and portion were not very impressive, especially compared to the price. The Satay Chicken (60RMB) made from char-grilled chicken breast marinated in spicy peanut, chilli, and coconut sauce was tender and moist with a hint of sweet flavor. The lovely marinated taste was reflected in its equally appealing yellow color. The Chargrilled Lemon Honey Tiger Prawns (85RMB) marinated in special honey marinade was the most disappointing out of all the starters. The prawns were not even tiger prawns! Maybe the kitchen ran out of tiger prawns and neglected to tell its patrons that the tiger prawn species would be substituted for another that evening? Who knows. The grand opening should at least see real tiger prawns. The marinade on the prawns was good, but the prawns were a tad dry as if left on the grill for a few seconds too long. The Duck Confit Samosas (65RMB), a trio of spiced duck samosas served with apple ginger chutney, were also very flavorful and moist. The accompanying apple ginger chutney added a soft and sweet bite to the spiced duck. The wrapper was a bit limp and could have been a touch crispier though. The Chilli and Corriander Calamari (65RMB) lightly-dusted and pan-fried with fresh chilli, garlic, corriander, and soy sauce served with lime and sweet chilli sauce was of average quality. The calamari came out hot and only featured rings cut from the mantle. The dish would have been more interesting if the tentacles were also used. A good squeeze of lemon made the calamari that much better. The Crab Croquettes (70RMB) was made from hand-picked crab meat mixed with freshly chopped herbs, onions, garlic, chilli, and creamy potato accompanied with lime and sweet chilli sauce. It easily could have been the best starter from the meal as the bulk of the croquette was crab meat instead of filler. The onions, galric, chilli, and potato in the croquette were not overpowering the main feature of the dish - the crab meat.

glo London,Baby Back Ribs
glo London grilled sea bass glo London beef
glo London Chicken Tikka Curry glo London Pizza Parma

The mains were significantly better in terms of price compared to size and quality. The selection leaned more toward an American menu with a few popular English choices such as the curries. The half slab of Hickory BBQ Baby Back Ribs (145RMB) is slow-cooked in a hickory oak burning smoke pit and finished on the chargrill before getting smothered with homemade bbq sauce. The ribs were actually full-sized pork ribs and was a massive portion. The meat was incredibly tender and slipped easily off the bone. There was great caramelization on the meat underneath that sweet barbecue sauce. Like most of the mains, it was served with hand-cut steak chips, battered onion rings, roasted cherry tomatoes, chargrilled mushrooms, and crisp mixed leaves. With the size of the mains, the steak chips and onion rings were almost unnecessary filler. The texture and taste of the mushrooms was more marinated than grilled. Half of these sides (the mushrooms and juicy cherry tomatoes) almost did give me the impression of an English breakfast. One diner was disappointed with the size of the Chargrilled Honey and Coriander whole Sea Bass (180RMB) marinated in coriander, cumin, ginger, Manuka honey, and fresh chillies. The fish was small, but tasty, especially with the marinade creating a barely there crust on the skin of the fish. The beef fillet (238RMB) raised some eyebrows because it did not taste like a solid beef cut, but rather marinated in soy sauce (manuka honey marinade), which masked the flavor of the beef. Also disappointing was the London-Style Chicken Tikka Curry (110RMB) with tender chicken pieces in tikka sauce flavored with fresh garlic, cardamom, coriander and fresh chilli. The curry was put in a bread bowl and served as a platter with poppadoms, kal cucumber, toasted coconut, and apple ginger chutney. There were too many grain products to go with the curry so you were getting more full from the papadoms and bread than the actual curry. The Parma Ham Pizza (115RMB) had tomato, torn buffalo mozzarella, olives, and marinated mushrooms slow-roasted in garlic and herb oil finished with slices of Parma ham, fresh rocket leaves, and a drizzle of extra-virgin olive oil. The crust of the pizza is thin, crispy and oval-shaped barely fitting the board it came on (with accompanying pizza cutter for a more hands-on experience). The marinated mushrooms were the same as the ones served as sides on the grilled mains and fell off the thin slices too easily. The Parma ham and rocket was abundant in every bite. When glo London rolls out its pizza delivery service, this would be something to look forward to. After all these mains, our party of five was absolutely stuffed.

glo London Jam Roly-Poly glo London Hot Chocolate Brownie glo London Butter and Bread Pudding

And then came out the desserts. With all the food from the first two courses, it was a surprise there was any room for dessert at all. The Jam Roly-Poly (50RMB) is labeled as "an old-time favorite" traditionally hand-rolled sponge cake smothered in raspberry jam and covered in custard. The custard really came in a gravy boat instead of covering the layered sponge cake. It was light, the sponge cake a tad dry, and the jam flavor barely there. The Hot Chocolate Brownie (60RMB) referred to as the "ultimate pudding for chocolate lovers with a fudgy texture" and chocolate chip topping served with honeycomb ice cream and fresh whipped cream was more a dry cake than brownie. The brownie fell apart for the lack of any fudgy texture to hold it together. The chocolate flavor was actually more on the bittersweet side than too sweet, but the consistency of the brownie destroyed the whole dessert. More familiar to an English dessert palate is the Bread and Butter Pudding (50RMB) mae from baked bread pudding with raisins (none of which were present), nutmeg, and vanilla pod served warm covered with strawberry jam and custard. The bread pudding was dense and too dry as if the moist quality of a good bread pudding would soak into the bread by the custard alone. It was not. The bread pudding was baked to a golden brown and the light custard could barely hold on to its gleaming surface.

Everyone was left with stomachs bursting from all the food that was shared and consumed. Overall, the food came in large portions (aside from the starters) and was incredibly filling. The mains from the grill and especially the pizzas are better choices for eats. The drinks were plentiful as well and ranged around 60RMB, which is average for its location in the former French Concession. While being a London-based chain, the majority of the menu was more reminiscent of an American casual restaurant and respected its serving size as well. The glo London Gastro Grill brought over more the chic atmosphere infiltrating the Square Mile's modern bar scene than a gastropub ideal with more English favorites. A return visit is likely in the future to sample the brunch and Sunday roast. The simple and clean interiors of glo London with its wide dining selection would definitely attract the roving expat in Shanghai.

glo London. 1 Wulumuqi Lu (by Dongping lu) / 乌鲁木齐路1号 (近东平路), Shanghai 200031, China. Tel: +86 21 6466 6565. glolondon.com

Sunday, November 14, 2010

Naughty Nuri's Pork Barbecue Spare Ribs

The grill at Naughty Nuri's Warung in Ubud, BaliIn Jakarta, while my host was making this extensive list of dishes you have to try that are unique to a city in Indonesia, the rave reviews of the spare ribs at Nuri's stood out the most. It could be that the portion was so generous, one person could barely finish the rack. It could also be that the pork is so tender that it slips right off the bone. Or maybe the sweet sauce slathered on the ribs when they are cooking. Maybe the 70,000Rp price tag could be a deterrant for one Indonesian or a gastronomic investment with high returns. Either way, these ribs must have made a strong impression. After reaching Ubud, I had to stay true to my promise that I would visit Nuri's Warung to taste the prized deliciousness of pork flesh. The location of the restaurant is said to be "20 minutes walking from the center," at least according to the guy at the front desk who takes his motobike everywhere, even to go 20 meters around the corner. It did not look so far on the map, but it was a far trek and the journey seemed even longer since it was raining. If that much pork was supposed to be consumed, the least we could do for ourselves is burn a few calories beforehand. At the entrance of the restaurant, there is a vat of pork spare ribs already brined, seasoned, pre-cooked, or whatever has to be done to get the ribs ready for the grill. Once the order is placed, the ribs are placed immediately on the grill and the aroma swirls through the entire open-air restaurant. You can hear a faint sizzle from the sugars in the sauce caramelizing on your ribs. The ribs are served alone with no frills except for a wedge of lemon. If you want any sides, that will be added to your tab. My host was right. The spare ribs were tender, juicy, falling off the bone, and had a slight caramelization from the grill. Yum. The plate looked huge, but I managed to polish it off easily sparing no shred of meat. It was well worth the splurge if you are on a budget. Happy and full, the walk back in the pouring rain reminds you just how much that trek outside of the center of Ubud was worth it for those ribs.

Pork ribs ready for grilling Interior of Naughty Nuri's Warung in Ubud, Bali Finished spare ribs at Naughty Nuri's


Nuri's Warung and Grill, Jl Raya Sangiggan (opposite the Neka Art Museum half way up the hill heading north out of Ubud), ☎ +62 361 977547. 10AM-11PM daily.

Sunday, April 11, 2010

Ben Jia

It is a daunting challenge to find a decent Korean restaurant in Shanghai that matches the level of service and free-flow kimchi of the restaurants in South Korea. This requires travel outside of central Shanghai to Ben Jia to the place where the Korean communities have settled. The ambition to consume authentic Korean food had driven us this far.

Arriving for a later lunch, the restaurant is still full and the server asks we wait a moment. This is promising. A full house means good food and a hungry stomach getting very excited.

As there were only two people, we did not have the chance to order everything off the menu for different tastes. We got the standard pork for barbecuing and spicy tofu soup with egg in a hot stone pot. I was not sure what to expect because I had become accustomed to the meager portions of sides that come with a Korean meal in Shanghai. I was proved wrong when they brought out the large platter of leafy greens, salad, cold soup, kimchi, sauces, and other delicious vegetable accompaniments. The vegetables were incredibly fresh and crispy. This meant that we would not have to constantly bother the server for more lettuce or kimchi. Excellent.

Ben Jia fresh vegetable spread

Before the meat came out, the spicy tofu soup was served. It was actually relatively spicy for Shanghai standards (Shanghainese have a lower tolerance for any sort of spicy factor, especially compared to the Sichuan food in Shanghai and Sichuan food in Sichuan province). The soup was lovely, though a little oily, and stayed hot throughout the meal.

Spicy tofu with egg in hot stone pot

Unlike Korea, the server in Shanghai insisted on helping us grill our meat instead of allowing us to go at our own pace and grill the meat ourselves. The pork was also served pre-cut and we did not get the massive kitchen shears to cut the meat up ourselves to desired size. Oh well. This is China, not Korea. The pork was still grilled nicely and went well with the extremely fresh selection of greens we could wrap them in.

Ben Jia raw pork for 2 Pork grilling at Ben Jia

This was a really nice meal and probably the closest thing I have experienced for an "authentic" Korean meal. It also turns out the restaurant is a short walk to the metro station, making this place more accessible from central Shanghai.

Ben Jia. 1339 Wuzhong Lu (near Jinhui Nan Lu) 吴中路1339号 (近金汇南路). Metro line 9 Hechuan Road. Shanghai, China.